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Bare metal protection

Started by _lostinspace_ , Apr 24 2007 09:25 PM

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21 replies to this topic

#1 _lostinspace_

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 09:25 PM

Hi all
I've been trying to remember the name of a product which was used at tech years ago and probably still do. But for the life of me can not remember the proper name for it The stuff which was a liquid was painted over bare metal to prevent it from rusting from one week to another as I recall it was something like fish oil when it dried but went on like water.

Maybe one of you guys is a panel beater or an apprentice and knows exactly what I'm talking about.

It probably was fish oil with kero or something like that but just not knowing the name is driving me crazy

Thanks in advance
Lost

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#2 dattoman

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 09:27 PM

Fish oil
Fisholine
Ranex

All those so that

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#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 09:32 PM

i just use primer, any old primer will do, saves cleaning up oil if you are still preparing.

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#4 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 10:10 PM

My shell is currently in a workshop getting some work done by a rust specialist. I asked him about fish oil and he told me that no one uses it anymore as it is too dangerous. Apparently several workshops have burnt to the ground as a result of rags soaked in fish oil spontaneously combusting overnight.

http://www.dir.ca.gov/Title8/5177.html

I did use fish oil extensively on my Torana back in 91 and it has done a good job of preventing rust. This time round it will be cavity wax and POR15.

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#5 rodomo

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 10:48 PM

Sounds like Rid-A-Rust (watery) but that sort of stuff has to be painted over within 24hrs usually.

Edited by rodomo, 24 April 2007 - 10:49 PM.

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#6 _gtr161s_

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 04:24 PM

If its a fresh bare metal surface use An etch primer - i use wattyl super etch. I think its available in black grey or red, i use black.

Once that on it seals out moisture from the bare metal, then can be painted in 2pac or acrylic primer.

I would only ever use a fish type product inside sills or doors etc, personally there are better rust proofing products, for those application, on the market.

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#7 LS1LX

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 08:58 PM

My shell is currently in a workshop getting some work done by a rust specialist. I asked him about fish oil and he told me that no one uses it anymore as it is too dangerous. Apparently several workshops have burnt to the ground as a result of rags soaked in fish oil spontaneously combusting overnight.

http://www.dir.ca.gov/Title8/5177.html

I did use fish oil extensively on my Torana back in 91 and it has done a good job of preventing rust. This time round it will be cavity wax and POR15.

Tell me, who with brains and a nose would leave rags soaked in fish oil in a workshop overnight?

The 1st thing anyone with brains and a nose does after wiping up fish oil is put the wags in the waste ASAP, have u smelt fish oil? You dont want that smell hanging around your shop.

Some mothers do ave em :spoton:

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#8 REDA9X

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 09:47 PM

WDCP, water displacing corrosion preventative. Basically kero in a thicker form. We use it on aircraft. perfect for bare metal much better than primer which will soak up moisture. Easy to clean off with thinners or presolve. You can buy a Castrol version or even use WD40 if you wanted.

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#9 _brocky_2006_

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 10:15 PM

there was one called rs1 but to much acid so no longer avalible but u can get rust tech from rare spares works well

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#10 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 10:32 PM

Tell me, who with brains and a nose would leave rags soaked in fish oil in a workshop overnight?

The 1st thing anyone with brains and a nose does after wiping up fish oil is put the wags in the waste ASAP, have u smelt fish oil? You dont want that smell hanging around your shop.

Some mothers do ave em

I guess that is exactly the problem. Someone who does not know better throws the rag in the bin. The rag eventually catches fire and then the whole bin catches fire. To bad if the bin is in the workshop or near the workshop.

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#11 _big chris_

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 12:05 AM

Hey,
the product we used at TAFE was called Deoxodine,
use to clean the metal to "blue finish"
can be left for up to a week,
as if left on the surface dry to a powder white look,
then requires light sand and then prime.
useful if u dont have time to prime that day.
Cheers
Chris

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#12 _the gts_

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 10:48 AM

Big chris is on the ball guys, there is also another one called deren-A made by spartan.
the best part about this stuff is that you dont wipe have to wipe it off before painting, you paint over the top.

Its a good thing to put this stuff on bare metal before primer.
and just for interest i actually had my engine bay in this stuff for about a year while working away every two weeks i would come home and wipe on a new coat.
didnt even get any minor surface rust

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#13 _Big T_

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 12:05 PM

Whoa, Fish Oil can spontaneously combust??? I know it stinks but I never knew that!! Thanks for the heads up guys. Slightly off topic, but what does one use to safely remove Fish Oil from a panel before painting it?

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#14 71xu1

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 12:29 PM

Have to agree with big chris when I was at TAFE as a 1st year apprentice deoxodine was what we used, basically a mixture of phosphoric acid and something else.

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#15 TerrA LX

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 02:49 PM

DEOXIDINE does not contain rust preventatives, so unless post treated with a neutralizing chemical, the surface should be painted as soon as possible after treatment (preferably within four hours). It may be used on most metals; with the exception of cadmium, zinc and magnesium, as these are susceptible to rapid chemical attack by acids.

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#16 _The Baron_

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 06:04 PM

A friend in the Crayfish game uses Lanolin.

Apparently it is banned in New Zealand as they sniff it. :rolleyes:

The NZ bunch have also been known to use it as a substitute KY jelly. :spoton:

(Guess where it comes from)

Cheers

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#17 _Herne_

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 07:28 PM

POR 15 ?

Herne

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#18 _lostinspace_

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 09:58 PM

Deoxidine is what I use before spraying etch primer but if you handle the metal after this prosess it still will rust. I will check out some of these products you guys have recomended next time I'm at the paintshop.

Thanks guys

Lost

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#19 _@milco@_

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 05:08 PM

A friend in the Crayfish game uses Lanolin.

Apparently it is banned in New Zealand as they sniff it.
The NZ bunch have also been known to use it as a substitute KY jelly.

(Guess where it comes from)

Cheers

lol sheep?

also does anyone know if i use por15 on a just primed bare shell, can i then start to do the body work i'e tap out dents and what not?

as i have my GTR shell that needs a far bit of body work done and i want to get it blasted back to bare metal, then do the body work but i have heard POR-15 while protecting from rust and sealing the body it will also make the metal pretty damn tough which would cause' me all sorts of grief............

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#20 _jabba_

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 09:01 PM

Por15 isnt cheap and it dry's extreemly hard, you might have a hard time removing it once its on there. Por15 is for sealing rust converted area's from mosture etc.

When i stripped my car back i just primed the metal with a couple of light coats of the primer im planning on using, ill sand it back and undercoat again once i've finished my repairs. That way it doesnt matter if i dont remove every last bit of it before painting.

Edited by jabba, 27 April 2007 - 09:01 PM.

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#21 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 27 April 2007 - 09:22 PM

If you get the car soda blasted then it will not need priming for a month or two, depending on the weather and storage location.

POR15 metal ready will also keep the rust at bay for a month or so. You brush or trigger spay the metal ready on and wash off with water. You could repeat the process before painting.

The POR15 website has a video of metal ready being applied before painting a door.
http://www.ppc.au.com/

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 27 April 2007 - 09:23 PM.