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Advice for buffing car

Started by _Eddie_ , Apr 30 2007 09:29 PM

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15 replies to this topic

#1 _Eddie_

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Posted 30 April 2007 - 09:29 PM

Well it's been nearly a year now since the car was painted and it's time for her to get nice and shiney. I'm in 2 minds here and that is; do I buff it myself or get someone to do it? I'd really like a top quality job to finish off all the hard work put into it over the last 2 years and I'm interested in people's opinions.

I'd like a high attention to detail but I'm not entirely sure if I this service is available? Things like the door jams will need to be done and also the engine bay, inner boot and bonnet lid. I hear you use different grades of cutting compounds one after another and get a better shine. I've also had buffs before where they've burnt through and the overall job was unsatisfactory - which explains my interest in doing it myself this time.

So let me know what your thoughts are. If DIY is the way - what brand of buffer, cost, cutting compounds and buffing pads do I use? If I go this way I could set up up a step by step process showing how I went about it. If getting a professional is the way - point me in the right direction

Thanks guys
Eddie

P.S. I painted the car in acyrlic well over 2 months ago. I've had a little experience buffing cars before at a car auction yard (was detailing for a few months) so I'm reasonably confident.

P.P.S. I also would like to polish the master cylinder and a few other alloy items too.

Cheers

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#2 TerrA LX

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Posted 30 April 2007 - 10:41 PM

For the paint, you can get buffers for around $120 (good for home) and buy a foam pad. Give the paint a fine cut with sand paper first then some polish (and/or cutting compound). Buy the foam pad from a trade supplier and grab the polish and the paper etc if needed while you are there.
Keep the pad flat, the speed up and don't get the surface hot.
Door jambs etc are by hand.
Alloy will need totally different equipment.

Edited by ALX76, 30 April 2007 - 10:43 PM.

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#3 V-SLR5000-P

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 06:41 AM

Do it yourself, its time consuming as you have to do door jams etc by hand. Start off by wet sanding with at least 1200 paper (or finer) using plenty of water with a mild detergent. When its all flat, no orange peel its polishing time. l have a Makita two speed polisher but use the slowest machine speed you can. You can machine polish all the flat areas, but stay away from the panel edges and raised lines in panels like the bonnet. When you were painting these raised lines should have received extra coats to give some extra margin for polishing. l still use a lambswool pad (old school?) your paint supplier should be able to recommend polishing compounds and pads. If you burn the paint grab the spray gun and fix it up again. Do this a few times and you will become an expert. Ask me how l know! :<_<:

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#4 orangeLJ

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 10:37 AM

lambs wool pads are good :spoton:

i have this stuff called "ultra fine cutting compound" use it one every car we have. its awesome stuff. comes in like a 2 litre or 3 litre white bucket with black and gold writing. its a white goo with a grainy texture.

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#5 _Pete_

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 07:06 PM

Considering you've put all that work into it already there's really no other choice than to finish it off yourself!!

shoot me a PM and we might be able to work something out

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#6 _gstar_

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 08:12 PM

Turf that foam pad, 900rpm works for me, finish by hand with wax, forget polish

Better still do the entire car by hand, especially if its black or dark

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#7 _brocky_2006_

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 10:25 PM

if there is scratches in paint we use g3 but if its in good condition just use autoglim bloody good for final polish but if you sand with 1200 then maybe buff is the answer add a little water not much but keeps things cool keep it moving away from badges and edges etc circular motion works best use nice flannel sheet (cheap)but works make sure no grit on rag on polished area. :spoton:

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#8 FLY_AGAIN_XU-1

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 12:30 AM

Roughly wet & dry with 1200, then progress to 2000 wet & dry, then handbuff with buffing compound (No machine), then polish ! A hell of alot of bloody hard work but the results will speak for themselves ! This process may take up to 100 hours !

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#9 orangeLJ

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 03:46 PM

or just do the rubbing, then buff with the machine, then hand buff the tight and raised/dangerous areas hand polish and wax. same thing, and would take alot less time for same results. if you know what you are doing with the buff then you shouldnt have any problems. those who cant get good results just dont know what they are doing.

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#10 _jabba_

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 11:29 PM

Do you guys use different methods for buffing 2pac vs acrylic?

When i cut and buffed my car done in 2k i sanded with 1500(ish)grit to remove orange peal, then 2000 grit then machine buffed. Even then i found i left really faint scratch's in the final finish (unless they are in the primer?).

I used G3 with water.

Edited by jabba, 02 May 2007 - 11:30 PM.

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#11 TerrA LX

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 11:36 PM

^ Acryllic is a lil more forgiving, but i try use a new pad with each 2K full buff and finish by hand with a very fine hand cut polish. (then wax of course).
Did you look to see if you are putting the scratches in the job or are they already there?

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#12 _jabba_

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 11:41 PM

Well it looks like the scratch's are from my sanding. Basically i sanded the panel back until i couldnt see any high spots (the serface went to a complete mat finish) then buffed back. I think they could be scratch's from my sanding because iirc the scratch's went the same way that i was blocking...

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#13 _Leakey_

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Posted 03 May 2007 - 09:47 AM

Eddie, a good 'novice' way to start is to get a MOTHER's pro-polish kit.

Comes with a small 240V palm polisher with stacks of pads and woolies.
Comes with all the polishes, gunk remover etc and also a DVD on how to do it.
All packaged in a plastic moulded case.

MOTHER's is good stuff, you only need to watch one episode of OverHauling.

My neighbour is the Australian importer/distributor of MOTHER's and he uses
it on his black, S class Merc' every weekend. (same kit) Always looks awesome.

You can find out where you could get a kit by ringing The Command Auto Group
in Sydney.

Hmm, might push for a commission on this...LOL - kidding!
- its really a good starter kit.

------------
Aside from that, all the above info' is also top advice.

Cheers, Leakey

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#14 _sweet_LX_

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Posted 08 May 2007 - 04:11 PM

^ Acryllic is a lil more forgiving, but i try use a new pad with each 2K full buff and finish by hand with a very fine hand cut polish. (then wax of course).
Did you look to see if you are putting the scratches in the job or are they already there?

Hmm... I've found 2 pack paint to be more forgiving than acrylic. I've been detailing for around 5 years with 2 pack and have just moved onto acrylic with my resto and acrylic is heaps more temperamental.

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#15 _sweet_LX_

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Posted 08 May 2007 - 04:17 PM

Well it looks like the scratch's are from my sanding. Basically i sanded the panel back until i couldnt see any high spots (the serface went to a complete mat finish) then buffed back. I think they could be scratch's from my sanding because iirc the scratch's went the same way that i was blocking...

I'd say the scratches are from your sanding. You just have to persist with the buff (I've found wool pads are more likely to hold dirt and grit which will scratch your paintwork) and keep the area wet and cool while you're working. I always carry a small spray bottle filled with water when I buff/glaze cars at work (detailer). Keeping the paint cool avoids burning your paint and getting those horrible swirl marks you see in alot of dark coloured cars.

What colour pad are you using?

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#16 _sweet_LX_

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Posted 08 May 2007 - 04:29 PM

Do you guys use different methods for buffing 2pac vs acrylic?

When i cut and buffed my car done in 2k i sanded with 1500(ish)grit to remove orange peal, then 2000 grit then machine buffed. Even then i found i left really faint scratch's in the final finish (unless they are in the primer?).

I used G3 with water.

I'd give 3M's "Perfect it II" glaze a go. It's great for dark coloured cars with minor swirls and scratches... use it with a grey soft buffing pad. It's around 35 bucks for a 1 litre bottle, I got mine from the local paint supply shop. I usually buff dark colours first with compound, and finish off with glaze to remove any swirls.