Hey guys, well this isnt actually for a Torana, my daily driver gemini... I wanna fuk off the original heater system as it sucks at the best of times... Is there any underdash electric heaters I can get? peferably on I could plumb into the original ducting...
Maybe a hotrod store or something
Any ideas?
Cheers
Electric underdash heater
Started by
_Viper_
, May 23 2007 08:32 PM
18 replies to this topic
#2
FastEHHolden
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Posted 23 May 2007 - 09:01 PM
The hotrod ones I know of still use engine coolant for heat...your alternator couldn't keep up if you had an electric heater going non stop....some people use 12 volt hair dryers as demisters but they won't heat the whole car.
#3
blown308
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Posted 23 May 2007 - 10:05 PM
there was a guy selling 12v heaters on eay try
http://stores.ebay.c...volt-Solar-shop
or you could also try most 4WD and caravan places as they sell alot of 12v stuff.... -
http://stores.ebay.c...volt-Solar-shop
or you could also try most 4WD and caravan places as they sell alot of 12v stuff.... -
#4
FastEHHolden
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Posted 23 May 2007 - 10:09 PM
150 watts..you would be better off wearing a jumper.
#5
_greenmachine215_
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Posted 23 May 2007 - 10:13 PM
Viper, Im on the same mission as you, I tryed a 12v heater from ebay, but not strong enuf to crank the heat out,
was thinking of hair dryer motors, not sure tho,
have a look at my thread on the same page somewhere, someone posted a link to castlemain electrical, they do a heater box for just under 300bux, im gonna look into that,
if u find anythin decent in the meantime let me know
was thinking of hair dryer motors, not sure tho,
have a look at my thread on the same page somewhere, someone posted a link to castlemain electrical, they do a heater box for just under 300bux, im gonna look into that,
if u find anythin decent in the meantime let me know
#6
_Viper_
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Posted 23 May 2007 - 10:30 PM
I found a good way for ya demister vents which is fastEHholden said, 12V hairdryer that u can get from most boat stores... but im a lil wary to run them for long periods of time in fear they might overheat and maybe worst case scnario catch fire... plus they draw like 8amps.. but do the trick for the 2mins or so u need to demist the windscreen
#7
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 23 May 2007 - 11:18 PM
Electric heaters are fine for demisting if used closely, but for heating the car interior.......unless you have at least 1000W forget it..........and thats going to require at least 80A extra from the alternator. The water heater core that comes with the torry and a 10A blower by my estimates is equivalent to at least 3000W.....best option would be to see what can be done to fix/improve your current water heater.
#8
_Hotrodder_
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Posted 24 May 2007 - 12:37 AM
Ive got one of those old round Smiths heaters in the hotrod, and I have to turn it off after a couple of minutes or so as it gets too hot.
You can still find them in some old wreckers, and occasionally appear on ebay for around $100 or more.
You can still find them in some old wreckers, and occasionally appear on ebay for around $100 or more.
#9
Dr Terry
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Posted 24 May 2007 - 02:44 AM
Hi Guys.
What's wrong with the original heater. Geminis had one of the better designs (for a 70s car). They have both fresh air & recirc air supplies & a good blower fan. If the heater core is not blocked & the engine thermostat is working, the heat output will be more than you need. Fix the problem, don't fit something else that will not work as well as the one you already have in the car now.
Dr Terry.
What's wrong with the original heater. Geminis had one of the better designs (for a 70s car). They have both fresh air & recirc air supplies & a good blower fan. If the heater core is not blocked & the engine thermostat is working, the heat output will be more than you need. Fix the problem, don't fit something else that will not work as well as the one you already have in the car now.
Dr Terry.
#10
Toranamat69
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Posted 24 May 2007 - 09:45 AM
I am going through the same drama at the moment as I am changing my entire cooling/heater/aircon system.
I am interrested in an electric heater as it allows one to delete the heater hoses completely for that smooth engine bay look.
The only ones I have seen which look like they would still be able to run off an alternator are the castle auto ones (and a few others the same size and rating in the US) These things pull 25A at 12 V so they are only 300W each - if you run 2 of these then it would be 600W, I'm not sure if this would be enough.
In Qld, heaters are almost not required anyway - maybe for the first 5 minutes the car is running and it takes about 4 minutes to actually get any hot water from a cold engine anyway. At least an electric one would give instant heat, even if it is not quite as hot.
I am thinking of getting 2 of these Castle electric ones (1 for driver and passenger) and using them in conjunction with an underdash a/c unit. Some of the a/c units you can get nowadays have a dehumidifying demister function so there would then be no need for a heated output to the windscreen.
My only hesitation is weather 2 of those heaters would do the job sufficiently.
I am interrested in an electric heater as it allows one to delete the heater hoses completely for that smooth engine bay look.
The only ones I have seen which look like they would still be able to run off an alternator are the castle auto ones (and a few others the same size and rating in the US) These things pull 25A at 12 V so they are only 300W each - if you run 2 of these then it would be 600W, I'm not sure if this would be enough.
In Qld, heaters are almost not required anyway - maybe for the first 5 minutes the car is running and it takes about 4 minutes to actually get any hot water from a cold engine anyway. At least an electric one would give instant heat, even if it is not quite as hot.
I am thinking of getting 2 of these Castle electric ones (1 for driver and passenger) and using them in conjunction with an underdash a/c unit. Some of the a/c units you can get nowadays have a dehumidifying demister function so there would then be no need for a heated output to the windscreen.
My only hesitation is weather 2 of those heaters would do the job sufficiently.
#11
Struggler
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Posted 24 May 2007 - 09:49 AM
I used a couple of 12V hairdryers years ago. It was enough to keep the screen clear on a cold Canberra morning, but it wouldn't warm the interior at all.
#12
A9X
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Posted 24 May 2007 - 12:02 PM
Yep same same,
We will be needing one for the Hatch, not for heating the car, just for demisting the windscreen.
Am expecting to use the castle auto's one or a Hot Rod one. But if anyone has a better mousetrap.....
We will be needing one for the Hatch, not for heating the car, just for demisting the windscreen.
Am expecting to use the castle auto's one or a Hot Rod one. But if anyone has a better mousetrap.....
#13
Struggler
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Posted 24 May 2007 - 08:30 PM
Years ago I removed the engine bay mounted heater fan and ducting and replaced it on the interior side of the firewall with a 3" bilge ventilation pump and some 3" ducting. Cleaned up the firewall and still had a good heater for winter. I ended up selling it to a forum member in SA (Hatchman76 ???). Of course I still had the heater hoses in the bay, but I think I flipped the core so the outlets came out above the manifold on the pass. side, rather than straight into the dizzy. Anyway it looked quite neat and kept me toasty warm!!! I'll see if I can find a pic.
#14
Struggler
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Posted 24 May 2007 - 08:45 PM
There you go, sorry about the huge pic but you can see the relocated heater hose outlets and a bit of the blocked off heater hole in the firewall (I used a Kitten polish lid to block it off). I drilled a 3" hole in the side of the fresh air box behind the glovebox and another in the side of the heater box above the core. I then mounted the bilge pump to the side of the heater box and the duct work went in between. It worked quite effectively.
#15
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 25 May 2007 - 10:54 AM
Suggest you get a 240V fan heater that you may have lying around the house and put it in the car when stationary(obviously) on the lower setting which is possibly 800W to get an idea of how much that heats the car.My only hesitation is weather 2 of those heaters would do the job sufficiently.
My estimate of the standard heater with high speed blower being at least 3000W comes from having done the same as above when I would leave a 2400W fan heater in the car to try and dry it out when all the carpets got soaked due to an unfortunate leak!
#16
_Hotrodder_
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Posted 27 May 2007 - 11:55 PM
You will not only have problems with 2 electric heaters tring to warm up anything at all, youre going to have to upgrade the alternator big time. The factory unit is probably only going to put out 55Amps, so as soon as you start the engine the ignition is already taking up more than you have left, let alone lights, radio etc.
If you really want something modern and clean looking, try the new electric 12v compressors from the likes of Toyota, and hook em up into a reverse cycle heating/cooling system, You'll get good performance, no heater hoses, and aircon as well.
If you really want something modern and clean looking, try the new electric 12v compressors from the likes of Toyota, and hook em up into a reverse cycle heating/cooling system, You'll get good performance, no heater hoses, and aircon as well.
#17
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 28 May 2007 - 12:35 AM
Sorry didnt take that in the 1st time.Some of the a/c units you can get nowadays have a dehumidifying demister function so there would then be no need for a heated output to the windscreen.
yes a/c will demist the windows faster than anything, especially in a steamy queensland environment and they will do it better if the air passed through the heater as well. However, not sure whether the authorities will recognise a/c only as suitable. As a solution it is definitely not applicable to colder climates......the ac will only dehumidify the air whilst the evaporator core is colder than the ambient air.....and when the system cycles off(as it will quickly do in cold or mild conditions) the demist function is lost and extra moisture laden air will be blown from the evaporator core.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 28 May 2007 - 12:37 AM.
#18
TerrA LX
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Posted 28 May 2007 - 02:41 AM
You haven't done anything else by halves so why not just re route and hide the heater hoses?I am going through the same drama at the moment as I am changing my entire cooling/heater/aircon system.
I am interrested in an electric heater as it allows one to delete the heater hoses completely for that smooth engine bay look.
You can use a late modle 323 mazda or the likes under the dash to rid the bay of the fan box.
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