hey all,
first of all this site needs a search button because im sure this question would of been asked a million times.
Ive got an issue with my flexible steering coupling fouling on my starter motor. I want to do the same mod as most people do with their LC/LJs V8s. Im pretty sure most people just use the LX/LH steering coupling right? Put one where the original coupling goes and then another at the rack end? I just need a guide to make a little easier for myself. Also some pics etc if anyone has any. Thanks in adavnce,
Nick
LC/LJ Steering mod to suit V8
Started by
_LJ_MAN_
, Jun 03 2007 05:16 PM
9 replies to this topic
#2
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 03 June 2007 - 05:21 PM
You will find some information and pics in this thread.
http://www.gmh-toran...15
The "My Assistant" link in the top right corner is a mediocre search function.
http://www.gmh-toran...15
The "My Assistant" link in the top right corner is a mediocre search function.
#3
_LJ_MAN_
_LJ_MAN_
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Posted 03 June 2007 - 06:10 PM
Thanks for that link 'LS2lxhatch' very help pic. I dont need to move my steering that much, only fouls by about 10mm, might have to design some thing esle. Is that the common conversion using those 3 coupling or are there a few variations out there?
Also thanks for the "my assistant" tab, never knew that was there.
cheers
nick
Also thanks for the "my assistant" tab, never knew that was there.
cheers
nick
#4
Struggler
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Posted 03 June 2007 - 07:15 PM
You need 3 couplings to clear a SBC, as well as a shaft bearing of some sort, as seen in the linked pic.
I once used a 4cyl LC/J steering shaft in a 308 powered car. The 4cyl shaft is a lot longer than the 6cyl one, placing the knuckles closer to the crossmember. I couldn't tell you if it would clear a SBC starter though....it might but I don't know. Every SBC powered car I have played with has the pictured setup.
Hope this helps.
I once used a 4cyl LC/J steering shaft in a 308 powered car. The 4cyl shaft is a lot longer than the 6cyl one, placing the knuckles closer to the crossmember. I couldn't tell you if it would clear a SBC starter though....it might but I don't know. Every SBC powered car I have played with has the pictured setup.
Hope this helps.
#5
_LJ_MAN_
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Posted 03 June 2007 - 07:59 PM
Struggler: thanks for your reply mate, im not a using a small block i got an RB30.
After finding this search button ive found loads of info, some ppl claim of getting away with one coupling and others swear by having 3. ill buy one and have a play around and go from there. If i was dodgy i could always trim my rubber bush, like to see that get passed by the engineers. ill have to get a pic up i think.
thanks for your help.
After finding this search button ive found loads of info, some ppl claim of getting away with one coupling and others swear by having 3. ill buy one and have a play around and go from there. If i was dodgy i could always trim my rubber bush, like to see that get passed by the engineers. ill have to get a pic up i think.
thanks for your help.
#6
Struggler
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Posted 04 June 2007 - 08:10 PM
Sorry, I assumed you were fitting a small block as you asked about V8s and said you had starter interference.
In your case I would move the base of the column over as far as you can (slot the firewall mounting holes and loosen the under dash bolts, if you need more clearance remake a new mounting plate where the column passes through the firewall) fit a LH/X steel coupling with a LH/X intermediate shaft and cut the LC rack shaft to suit. File a flat on the rack shaft and fit another LH/X steel coupling there. This will look and drive factory and is what I usually do for 308 conversions.
Hope this helps.
In your case I would move the base of the column over as far as you can (slot the firewall mounting holes and loosen the under dash bolts, if you need more clearance remake a new mounting plate where the column passes through the firewall) fit a LH/X steel coupling with a LH/X intermediate shaft and cut the LC rack shaft to suit. File a flat on the rack shaft and fit another LH/X steel coupling there. This will look and drive factory and is what I usually do for 308 conversions.
Hope this helps.
#7
_LJ_MAN_
_LJ_MAN_
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Posted 04 June 2007 - 08:44 PM
Struggler, thanks mate that exactly what ill do. not move the column over but use a LX coupling with an intermediate shaft onto another coupling. thanks for your help mate.
cheers
nick
cheers
nick
#8
_LJ_MAN_
_LJ_MAN_
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Posted 04 June 2007 - 08:44 PM
Struggler, thanks mate that exactly what ill do. not move the column over but use a LX coupling with an intermediate shaft onto another coupling. thanks for your help mate.
cheers
nick
cheers
nick
#9
Bart
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Posted 05 June 2007 - 07:22 PM
LJ ManStruggler: thanks for your reply mate, im not a using a small block i got an RB30.
After finding this search button ive found loads of info, some ppl claim of getting away with one coupling and others swear by having 3. ill buy one and have a play around and go from there. If i was dodgy i could always trim my rubber bush, like to see that get passed by the engineers. ill have to get a pic up i think.
thanks for your help.
On my LJ RB30t convo, i chopped the outer colomn (in the engine bay end) down to the firewall, then shifted the colomn approx an inch toward the chassis rail direction, chopped off approx couple or so inches off the end of the shaft (engine bay end again) used 2 steel LH steering knuckles bobs your uncle
When you chop the shaft you have to mill or grind flat spots on it so your cotter pins binds up against the flat spots when you tighten them. (so your shaft dosnt spin inside your LH unis obviously)
I used a ball bearing in place of the original worn out bush. I think GTRboy used a modified suspension bush
#10
_LJ_MAN_
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Posted 14 June 2007 - 05:58 PM
ok i see what your saying. so you didnt chop anything off your rack end. just chopped enough off your steering column to fit 2 knucks between. do you have any pics barts.
my email is [email protected]
thanks
nick
my email is [email protected]
thanks
nick
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