the volt meter on my LH SLR cluster just died. It doesn't move anymore.Had a quick look and it seems to have power to it. This Sh*#s me off.Any help appreciated. Cheers Steve
VOLT METER DIED
Started by
_steve253_
, Jun 19 2007 08:52 PM
13 replies to this topic
#1
_steve253_
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Posted 19 June 2007 - 08:52 PM
Gday all, the volt meter on my LH SLR cluster just died. It doesn't move anymore.Had a quick look and it seems to have power to it. This Sh*#s me off.Any help appreciated. Cheers Steve
the volt meter on my LH SLR cluster just died. It doesn't move anymore.Had a quick look and it seems to have power to it. This Sh*#s me off.Any help appreciated. Cheers Steve
#2
lakeside
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Posted 20 June 2007 - 10:07 AM
if it's got power and don't move, it's stuffed.
#3
_Flamenco_
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Posted 20 June 2007 - 01:57 PM
Gday steve253, I think it would probably have a broken wire inside (the wire inside is very thin).
I did a Tech article on the sl/r gauges if you're feeling a bit handy.
I did a Tech article on the sl/r gauges if you're feeling a bit handy.
#4
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Posted 21 June 2007 - 08:19 PM
Im gunna pull the gauge out on the weekend and check it out properly.Also can a fuel gauge out of an SL be used in place of a volt gauge.Cheers Steve
Edited by steve253, 21 June 2007 - 08:32 PM.
#5
fuzzypumper
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 12:01 AM
I was just about to post that my volt gauge was dead too but realised it took a few minutes for the guage to reach the lower line(11volts) with 13volts applied.
This would mean the wire isnt broken but the mechanical regulator has possibly gone faulty.
What Average voltage is this regulator supposed to put out?
Flamenco, Where is this tech article you mentioned.
This would mean the wire isnt broken but the mechanical regulator has possibly gone faulty.
What Average voltage is this regulator supposed to put out?
Flamenco, Where is this tech article you mentioned.
#6
rodomo
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 12:13 AM
#7
fuzzypumper
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 02:25 AM
My mistake. The volt gauge is actually connected to battery 12volts before regulator. However I still found the bimetalic strips pin was fouling on a plastic dag on the needle lever. I cleared the dag and know works and calibrated it so 13volts represents the middle line on gauge.
I still would like to know the average voltage output of the mechanical regulator so I can replace it with a semiconductor type so the Fuel, Oil and especially temp gauges dont vary between Idling and driving.
I still would like to know the average voltage output of the mechanical regulator so I can replace it with a semiconductor type so the Fuel, Oil and especially temp gauges dont vary between Idling and driving.
#8
_steve253_
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 07:24 PM
Ive been told that the oil,fuel and temp gauges run on 5volts. Thats why the need of a voltage regulator, correct me if Im wrong . Cheers Steve
#9
lakeside
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 07:44 PM
wrong, they are feed by 12volts DC.
#10
rodomo
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 07:52 PM
Its there to stabilize the voltage to the guages as loads come on and off the electrical system. Like when you turn your indicators on the needle doesn't float back wards and forwards as the lights go on and off.
#11
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 08:27 PM
Its 10V on a UC, imagine it would be the same on earlier models. My reckoning would be 12V is too high. The gauges are set to work at a lower voltage than a nearly flat battery....one reason: if you just wanted to check the fuel without turning the engine on the gauge needs to be able to read correctly even with only maybe 11.5V available.......or there may be some other crisis where you are driving without any output from the alternator. Im sure there is no mechanism within a normal automotive stabliser to provide a higher regulated voltage than what is available from the battery.....but Ill check that out...to be sure.
Typically there wont be much movement from gauges with short changes in voltage, like the indicators going on and off even in an unregulated system as some of the gauges are damped themselves.....the reason why temp gauges and fuel gauges move slowly. voltage and oil pressure are typically not damped.
Typically there wont be much movement from gauges with short changes in voltage, like the indicators going on and off even in an unregulated system as some of the gauges are damped themselves.....the reason why temp gauges and fuel gauges move slowly. voltage and oil pressure are typically not damped.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 22 June 2007 - 08:33 PM.
#12
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Posted 22 June 2007 - 08:52 PM
I wouldnt think so. As fuzzy has pointed out, the voltmeter gets an unregulated feed and full scale would be 17-18V, it is also not damped whereas a fuel gauge is.Im gunna pull the gauge out on the weekend and check it out properly.Also can a fuel gauge out of an SL be used in place of a volt gauge.Cheers Steve
They may indeed have the same windings etc(dont know) with different resistors in series etc.....you would need to know your basics.
#13
fuzzypumper
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Posted 23 June 2007 - 01:22 AM
Hey Devil, After looking at innards of my the gauges, they use the same coloured wire, bimetalic strips and needles. Even the spring tension on the needles feel the same as each other. However whether the fuel gauge is the S dash is same I'm not sure either.
What has me wondering now is what scale do you think the volt markings are supossed to be? The Torana manual simply mentions high and low. Do you think torana volt gauge scale lines are 11-14volts in .5 volt increments or 9-18volts in 1 volt increments?
What has me wondering now is what scale do you think the volt markings are supossed to be? The Torana manual simply mentions high and low. Do you think torana volt gauge scale lines are 11-14volts in .5 volt increments or 9-18volts in 1 volt increments?
#14
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 23 June 2007 - 06:46 AM
Only guessing about ^.
Not familiar with voltmeter scales on earlier models, though 14V for full scale would be too low.......it should basically be at 14V when the engine is running. 1 oclock on the uc gauge is 14V, which is in the middle of the white operating bar, have seen it go to 16V(faulty reg) puts it just outside this and estimate that full scale would be 18V.
11V for minimum may be useable, but really you want to be able to see what voltage is there when cranking the motor. The uc gauge shows movement down to about 7-8V.
The best way around it is to just calibrate the markings on the gauge yourself, its only the departure from normal that is of concern.
Should be easy enough to calibrate it up to full alternator output.
1. Run the motor at 1500rpm put an accurate voltmeter across the battery and you should have your 14V mark(or whatever the meter across the battery says) on the dash gauge.
2. let the motor drop to idle, start turning on accessories to get the voltage to drop and identify how much the graduations are on the gauge.
3. to get lower voltages turn of the motor and continue loading up the accessories
4. Crank the starter to get even lower readings.
Typically the meters themselves show great precision(that means the gauge consistently reads the same value for the same input). I would anticipate that the reason they never calibrated the scales is that the actual readings from meter to meter could be different and that would have only lead to every 2nd customer complaining that the gauge reads 14V when it should have been 13.5 etc.
Not familiar with voltmeter scales on earlier models, though 14V for full scale would be too low.......it should basically be at 14V when the engine is running. 1 oclock on the uc gauge is 14V, which is in the middle of the white operating bar, have seen it go to 16V(faulty reg) puts it just outside this and estimate that full scale would be 18V.
11V for minimum may be useable, but really you want to be able to see what voltage is there when cranking the motor. The uc gauge shows movement down to about 7-8V.
The best way around it is to just calibrate the markings on the gauge yourself, its only the departure from normal that is of concern.
Should be easy enough to calibrate it up to full alternator output.
1. Run the motor at 1500rpm put an accurate voltmeter across the battery and you should have your 14V mark(or whatever the meter across the battery says) on the dash gauge.
2. let the motor drop to idle, start turning on accessories to get the voltage to drop and identify how much the graduations are on the gauge.
3. to get lower voltages turn of the motor and continue loading up the accessories
4. Crank the starter to get even lower readings.
Typically the meters themselves show great precision(that means the gauge consistently reads the same value for the same input). I would anticipate that the reason they never calibrated the scales is that the actual readings from meter to meter could be different and that would have only lead to every 2nd customer complaining that the gauge reads 14V when it should have been 13.5 etc.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 23 June 2007 - 06:53 AM.
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