well yesterday all of a sudden the cars in front decided to stop, I went for my brakes only to realise the pedal just kept going down, I pumped them a couple of times, Just pulled up in time with a quick lane change to avoid hitting the car infront. Then it was all fine, for the rest of the 40 min drive home, no probs. would u guys recomend bleeding the system? OR?
cheers
Brakes, not there?
Started by
_hrt1and2_
, Jan 25 2006 11:01 AM
31 replies to this topic
#2
REDA9X
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 11:34 AM
Yep, and maybe even get your booster looked at too. Are the brakes going from hard to soft at all, no brakes to brake on hard with no feel? When where they last bleed?
#3
MRLXSS
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 12:19 PM
It wouldnt hurt giving it a bleed, but as red said it could also be the booster, or master cylinder.
Firstly i would bleed the system, it sounds like there was air in the line somewhere
Firstly i would bleed the system, it sounds like there was air in the line somewhere
#4
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 12:27 PM
Have you checked your fluid levels in the reservoir? Aslo brake fluid is hydroscopic, absorbs water. You really need to change it every six months.
#5
FastEHHolden
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 01:48 PM
close...hygroscopic....and if you don't have a rubber diaphram seperating the atmosphere from your brake fluid then there is half a chance that your boiling point has been reduced and you were trying to compress steam.
How spirited was the driving just before that? I had the EH brakes give up in normal stop start traffic not long ago...not much fun.
How spirited was the driving just before that? I had the EH brakes give up in normal stop start traffic not long ago...not much fun.
#6
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 01:54 PM
bwahahaha, I come from a paper based background. Our old tracing paper sheets where hydroscopic!!! Thanks for the correction.
#7
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 02:08 PM
ahh thanks guys u reminded me, when i got my carby rejetted a while ago, the guy did say the "power valve" on the brake booster was gone and i need a new booster. so i would say thats the problem.
am i better of gettting a new 1, or a wreckers job?
is there a good way of draining the fluid with out getting it on my paint work?
cheers.
am i better of gettting a new 1, or a wreckers job?
is there a good way of draining the fluid with out getting it on my paint work?
cheers.
#8
dattoman
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 02:24 PM
Syringe the fluid out
Get your booster rebuilt
Buying one from the wreckers may be buying the same problem again
Get your booster rebuilt
Buying one from the wreckers may be buying the same problem again
#9
MRLXSS
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 02:32 PM
New $250, Wreckers $30, New u wont have problems, Wreckers its just pot luck!
#10
rodomo
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 08:03 PM
If you were chasing the pedal to the floor with liitle feel either your fluid was boiling (were you giving them a hard time prior?) Or your master cylinder is by-passing. In which case I would replace it new.
If your pedal is the right height but you have to push extra hard to pull it up, the booster or hose or check valve is faulty.
Its Hydroscopic! Hygroscopic! Why its greased lightning!
RACV MAN
If your pedal is the right height but you have to push extra hard to pull it up, the booster or hose or check valve is faulty.
Its Hydroscopic! Hygroscopic! Why its greased lightning!
RACV MAN
#11
FastEHHolden
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 10:20 PM
Australia day festivities kicking in a bit early? 
#12
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 10:22 PM
Sort of like the National Sex Week.
Jan 1 to Dec 31.
Jan 1 to Dec 31.
#13
rodomo
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 11:25 PM
I had another think in my brayn and if your "power valve" in your booster were leaking it could cause brake fade as you were driving but you would have felt a "drag" on your car.
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#14
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 01:23 AM
is that the brake proportioning valve or is that something different?I had another think in my brayn and if your "power valve" in your booster were leaking it could cause brake fade as you were driving but you would have felt a "drag" on your car.
RACV MAN
#15
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 11:04 AM
Sounds more like the vacuum check valve. The one the vacuum hose connects to.
#16
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 02:12 PM
Rodomo: brake fade is also a issue.
Maybe i should just take it somewhere get the work done.
Maybe i should just take it somewhere get the work done.
#17
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 02:18 PM
Generally not the cheapest option.
Generally is the safest option.
Generally is the safest option.
#18
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 04:43 PM
Thought I could smell something burning.I had another think in my brayn .....
#19
rodomo
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 08:29 PM
The "power valve" (I'm using inverted comma's because I'm not sure what it's called but think it is what hrt1and2 is refering to) is the valve in the brake booster that lets the atmospheric pressure in. Its been a while and I may be corrected but from memory this is how a booster works: The diaphram in the booster has vacuum both sides with your foot off the brake, this allows it to stay central. When you put your foot on the brake a valve shuts off the vacuum to the rear of the diaphram and allows atmospheric pressure to enter the rear chamber. Now we have an imbalance in pressure and the diaphram and pushrod move forward. Thats roughly how it works there are sensitivity springs and other things in there too I think. If the part of the "power valve" the allows the atmospheric pressure in is leaking with your foot off the brake it can cause brake drag. If the sensetivity spring packs up its full brake as soon as you touch the pedal. All from memory maybe datto can confirm?
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#20
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 26 January 2006 - 11:06 PM
hmmm.... is there any way of testing one at the wreckers?. Are the boosters stamped with a date when they were recondioned or made new?, at the moment i cant afford a new booster, just spent 1400.00 on bloody tafe fees.
Just out of curiosity how far is the pedal ment to travel under normal conditions, mine only traves 1-2 inches from released, too full stroke, is this like most?
Just out of curiosity how far is the pedal ment to travel under normal conditions, mine only traves 1-2 inches from released, too full stroke, is this like most?
#21
dattoman
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 11:06 AM
There is no way of testing without a vaccuum source.... ie running engine
They are not date coded unless reconditioned and they bothered to put a sticker on it with a date
Get your car diagnosed before you spend any money
Could be buying something you don't need
They are not date coded unless reconditioned and they bothered to put a sticker on it with a date
Get your car diagnosed before you spend any money
Could be buying something you don't need
#22
rodomo
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Posted 27 January 2006 - 10:32 PM
Another brayn wave!
Pushrod clearance!
You must have pushrod clearance between the pedal and booster AND the booster and master cylinder. Otherwise brake drag and fade can result.
RACV MAN
Pushrod clearance!
You must have pushrod clearance between the pedal and booster AND the booster and master cylinder. Otherwise brake drag and fade can result.
RACV MAN
Edited by rodomo, 27 January 2006 - 10:33 PM.
#23
FastEHHolden
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:15 AM
Atmospheric valve?
#24
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 01:00 PM
i can now confirm i have brake drag on the front left, havent checked the right 1 yet will do in a min.
thanks people.
thanks people.
#25
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 01:30 PM
just check the front right, its spinning free but there is a little noise might be a bit of dirt and dust, but the front left spins then stops, kinda jams up. i noticed also the other day the rim also gets hot on the front left, very hot.
Any one recommend a good brake specilalist mechanic in Adelaide?
Cheers.
Any one recommend a good brake specilalist mechanic in Adelaide?
Cheers.
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