Steering arms
Started by
_shep3305_
, Jul 23 2007 06:46 PM
17 replies to this topic
#1
_shep3305_
_shep3305_
-
- Guests
Posted 23 July 2007 - 06:46 PM
I have just completed a LH caliper brake conversion on a LJ, swapping stubs over from left to right etc.. I have used LH steering arms..This required the steering rack tie rod ends to be inverted upside down. I was told this is ok..My question is that i have only got about 28mm of steering rack thred left in the tie rod ends after i give it a rough alignment.... Should i have used UC steering arms as i have heard that they are slightly different ?
#2
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 23 July 2007 - 10:48 PM
are your tie rod and rack sitting horizontal/level?
#3
_shep3305_
_shep3305_
-
- Guests
Posted 24 July 2007 - 05:53 PM
Yes when the car is back on the ground , the steering rack and steering arms are level. The tie rod ends are inverted to do this... 
#4
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 24 July 2007 - 06:59 PM
o.k. because around horizontal at ride height gives the least bump steer, what i am getting at is that the switch to different tie rods only changes the altitude, for want of a better word, of the location, not to bring them in further if thats what you are chasing, which i think will also affect steering, but i don't really know enough without opening books to comment further.
28mm sounds like enough thread to me but i wouldnt want to drop to the low teens.
P.S. how are the tie rods sitting in, i thought they sat in a taper?
28mm sounds like enough thread to me but i wouldnt want to drop to the low teens.
P.S. how are the tie rods sitting in, i thought they sat in a taper?
#5
_shep3305_
_shep3305_
-
- Guests
Posted 24 July 2007 - 07:47 PM
yeah the rods are still in the taper ok, its just that the steering arms are reversed. They recomend that way to invert the tie rods to keep the rack level. Thanks for your help. i will get her in for a front end alignment and see how it goes..
Cheers Shep
Cheers Shep
#6
_brett_32i_
_brett_32i_
-
- Guests
Posted 21 January 2009 - 03:55 PM
to revisit an old topic...
are we only trying to make the arms horizontal to fix bumpsteer??
or does it have to do with the pivot points of the rack, should the rack ideally be wider to eliminate bumpsteer?
or are there other factors that cause the bad bump steer on toranas. (i am using std uc stubs and arms.)
are we only trying to make the arms horizontal to fix bumpsteer??
or does it have to do with the pivot points of the rack, should the rack ideally be wider to eliminate bumpsteer?
or are there other factors that cause the bad bump steer on toranas. (i am using std uc stubs and arms.)
#7
hatchssv8
-
- Members
-
- 358 posts
Forum Fan
- Location:Melbourne
- Joined: 10-November 05
Posted 21 January 2009 - 07:40 PM
Pardon my ignorance if I have missed something here, but.............
You said you "have just completed a LH caliper brake conversion on a LJ".....To me, that means that you have removed the Girlock calipers (with opposing piston set up) and replaced with LH single piston type. I thought the footprint is the same on those. Therefore I dont understand why you need to swap left to right and why you need to use LH steering arms (thus having to fit tierods inverted)
I thought that all Toranas were not set up with trailing steering, and the calipers were all located forward of the front wheel centre.
Why cant you use the LJ steering arms, and why do you need to swap the stubs around.
I am a little confused..........can someone point out if I am correct or just shoot me if I am wrong
Cheers, Max
You said you "have just completed a LH caliper brake conversion on a LJ".....To me, that means that you have removed the Girlock calipers (with opposing piston set up) and replaced with LH single piston type. I thought the footprint is the same on those. Therefore I dont understand why you need to swap left to right and why you need to use LH steering arms (thus having to fit tierods inverted)
I thought that all Toranas were not set up with trailing steering, and the calipers were all located forward of the front wheel centre.
Why cant you use the LJ steering arms, and why do you need to swap the stubs around.
I am a little confused..........can someone point out if I am correct or just shoot me if I am wrong
Cheers, Max
#8
View GaragePosted 21 January 2009 - 08:16 PM
Max I think you're referring to the original post (from 2007) but today's question is different (although related). I can't remember exactly but I believe that LH-UC brakes are a slight upgrade on LC/LJ hence the swap.
brett_32i to avoid bump steer the tie rod needs to follow the suspension movement without pushing or pulling (steering). Visualise the path of the tie rod compared to the wheel, they should be an identical arc. I believe having the tie rods horizontal at ride height is a fair approximation at ensuring both arcs start at the same position.
brett_32i to avoid bump steer the tie rod needs to follow the suspension movement without pushing or pulling (steering). Visualise the path of the tie rod compared to the wheel, they should be an identical arc. I believe having the tie rods horizontal at ride height is a fair approximation at ensuring both arcs start at the same position.
#9
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 21 January 2009 - 08:43 PM
The LJ twin pistons with a good kit in them will beat an LH setup hands down...any day...
R
R
#10
Posted 21 January 2009 - 08:48 PM
Are the discs different then? I thought there was something in it...?
#11
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 21 January 2009 - 09:44 PM
Think the LH discs are slightly thicker...LJ twin piston grabbing each side Vs LH single piston pushing on one side...no brainer actually.
R
R
#12
Posted 22 January 2009 - 07:05 AM
I guess people wanting to put LH/LX brakes on their LC/LJ as an upgrade just haven't done their research - I sold the original fronts off my hatch to a guy who wanted to do just that... oh well
#13
_rorym_
_rorym_
-
- Guests
Posted 22 January 2009 - 08:53 AM
Datto shakes his head everythime he reads about it.
R
R
#14
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
-
- Guests
Posted 23 January 2009 - 11:06 PM
Hi, Look dont mean to rip your thread off but can someone help me
with a question. Found a complete XU 1 front subframe at the wreckers
a while ago but 1 of the stub/knukle assemblies has a buggered caliper
mounting hole, been drilled out & rethreaded for a larger bolt & I'm not
about to do the same to my XU1 caliper.
a. Can I use a LH or X stub assy but from the opposite side due to the
caliper mounting difference between LJ & LH/X?
b. Is the LH/X stub axle going to accept the LJ disc/hub assembly ie: the
bearing inner race mounting & is the stub longer or shorter?
My cars original subframe is still in the car & rebuilt with rubber bushes
but wanted to rebuild the other XU1 subframe with poly bushes & just do
a complete swap.
Cheers Jono
with a question. Found a complete XU 1 front subframe at the wreckers
a while ago but 1 of the stub/knukle assemblies has a buggered caliper
mounting hole, been drilled out & rethreaded for a larger bolt & I'm not
about to do the same to my XU1 caliper.
a. Can I use a LH or X stub assy but from the opposite side due to the
caliper mounting difference between LJ & LH/X?
b. Is the LH/X stub axle going to accept the LJ disc/hub assembly ie: the
bearing inner race mounting & is the stub longer or shorter?
My cars original subframe is still in the car & rebuilt with rubber bushes
but wanted to rebuild the other XU1 subframe with poly bushes & just do
a complete swap.
Cheers Jono
#15
Posted 24 January 2009 - 04:28 AM
I'm pretty sure B is not possible, the LH/LX/UC stub is a bit longer so discs and stubs need to be interchanged as a pair between LC/LJ and LH/LX/UC
#16
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
-
- Guests
Posted 24 January 2009 - 09:38 PM
Thanx lxhatch,
Have to start hunting around for a
useable LC/J disc brake stub assembly.
Cheers Jono
Have to start hunting around for a
useable LC/J disc brake stub assembly.
Cheers Jono
#17
FastEHHolden
-
- Members
-
- 5,114 posts
Steptoe
- Location:Central Coast NSW
- Joined: 16-November 05
Posted 25 January 2009 - 05:43 AM
The LJ twin pistons with a good kit in them will beat an LH setup hands down...any day...
R
until a piston jams or partly seizes...I'm not sure if the LH setup is better...maybe from a reliability veiwpoint, it could be...and i know that on paper a twin piston caliper should be better ( in performance) than a single...but I'm not sure it works like that in reality.
I use HR calipers in the EH...they were kitted and work well but every now and then you find yourself shooting one way or another. You lever the pads back and it all works fine until the next time.
#18
_Squarepants_
_Squarepants_
-
- Guests
Posted 08 March 2009 - 07:07 PM
There are a couple of twin piston LJ/LC brake calipers on ebay at the moment. As FastEH says they're better in theory, but also in reality if they are in good condition and all clearances are in acceptable range. You would only get one wheel lock up if one caliper is slack. There is nothing special about the LH LX floating calipers, in fact I've had one wheel grab with them due to the slide surfaces being worn, and had to build up one slide shim to take up the slack.
The fact is, if your brakes are better in theory and are in good condition, they will be better.
Go with the twin pistons, I reckon.
The fact is, if your brakes are better in theory and are in good condition, they will be better.
Go with the twin pistons, I reckon.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
