9 replies to this topic

[hatchssv8]

Backround:
LX 6cyl auto, SS dash..standard oe wiring throughout - no mods whatsoever

Driving along at night: Engine running, headlights on, radio on, heater fan on spd 1.

Used the indicator stalk to change to high beam and the following happened

1. Blue High beam indicator in cluster illuminated
2. Lights switched to High beam
3. Fuel, oil, volts and temp guages all switched off (same as if ign is in off position)
4. Radio - no change - remained on as usual
5. Heater fan - no change - kept working as usual
6. Gen light came on ( the red one that is)

I thought at this point I may have lost a belt so I slowed done from 100, and looked for a place to stop. I also tried to switch lights from High beam to normal....no go. the relay was not switching.

Eventually pulled over and found that I didnt have any belt issues. Checked all electrical connections in the engine bay and found they were sound.

Tried to restart and noticed that the power to the solenoid at the carb was non existent and the gen light was not illuminating. Switched the lights on and they were same as before. High beam and couldnt be changed.

In the end I rocked the ignition switch between lock, off and on a few times. Eventually I stopped when I saw the gen light illuminate. Started the car, all was normal and drove home without incident.

When I got home I tried to recreate the fault. On the fith or sixth attempt to change to High beams, I succeeded. Cleared the fault as previously explained.

Who has any idea what is going on???????????????????????

Probably something simple, but your help is appreciated.

Thanks, Max

[FastEHHolden]

My guess is the micro switch contacts in the column switch...I would borrow one and plug it into your loom to see if it still does it.

[ReplicarSLR]

Hi there Max, had a similar promblem with my LH a few years ago, know I had an LH without the micro switch for the high beam lights of course, but i would check the ignition switch on the steering column. It seems to accumulate some dust etc becasue if it's possition on top of the steering column its easy for it to accumulate dust and dirt etc, the fact that the idle solenoid (on the LX carb) lost power indicates that the 12v feed from the ignition switch was lost, as this should be +12 when ever the ignition is in the ign or start possition. Also the fact that you rocked the ignition switch from off to ign to temporarily fix the problem seems to indicate a possible problem in the ignition switch. Seems also that because the alternator light was not lit up when you tried to restart that the problem may be also in the ignition switch, as well as being the source of the dash instrument problem.

Not too sure as to why the lights stayed on high beam but may be the headlight relay stays latched in the high beam setting once toggled by the microswitch and requires a good +12V and a good earth through the micro switch to un-latch it. I have only recently acquired an LX and my two previous Torries were LH's so not full bottle on this relay. Maybe someone else can help with the exact details on the LX headlight relay?? But if this is the case a poor feed as a consequence of the ignition switch may be the reason for this also.

Sorry for not being able to specifically identify the problem but hope it helps.

[hatchssv8]

Thanks for the detailed responses gents. Will be looking at the issue this weekend. I will probably hunt down a ign switch to try also. My only fear is that as it is intermitent (even though I have been able to recreate the problem) it may not show the same symptom again. This is just my theory based on previous experiences with intermitent faults.

There really are some very helpful and knowledgable ppl on here ^^^^^. Many thanks again. You too Devils.
Max

[Dangerous]

Could be that your ignition switch needs adjusting. They have a small amount of fore and aft adjustment (held on with two 5/16" bolts with elongated holes in the bracket), to cater for variations in the column, switch, ignition barrel and rod. Try starting the car as normal and running it with indicators etc on, and turning the ignition key a very small amount clockwise and anticlockwise. My guess is that if you turn it just a bit towards the start position, you'll simulate the fault. If so, it's just a matter of repositioning the ignition switch to get everything to work properly again. This can also be a problem if the ignition barrel is sticky, and the spring isn't strong enough to force it back to the ON position from the START position when it's released.

For general info, the LX headlight relay is a changeover relay. Its contacts have two stable positions - high beam and low beam, and a flick of the high/low switch causes it to change state. It does not need constant power to stay in the high beam state. If the microswitch, wiring (most commonly one of the wires breaks off) or power to the microswitch fails, the relay will not change state, and the headlights will stay on high/low beam as long as the headlight switch is on.

[Dangerous]

HatchSSV8, DA's just shot off a PM to me which has jogged my memory. If it's not the ignition switch itself, I'm sure the 'turn signals/backup' fuse also supplies the dipper microswitch as well. Try rotating all of the fuses in the fusebox, as this can make them get better contact with the fusebox clamps, and/or replace this fuse, even if it looks OK. I've had a few glass fuses which look perfect, and even meter OK on the ohms range, but when a load is put on them they heat up and fail at the soldered ends.

Good luck.

[hatchssv8]

Bingo.....................And the winners are DA and Dangerous.Acuallly DA wins it by a short fuse.(I cant even write funny!!!!)

A slight jiggle of the 15A tell tale fuse would create the problem on cue.

Removed the 15A glass fuse and one of the metal end caps just fell off.

Replace with a new fuse and...........all is fixed, cannot recreate the problem. Also checked the wire terminal connection to the fuse holder terminal just in case. These seemed fine.

Any of you blokes in Melbourne? That is got to be worth a beer or two.

It saved me having to do the usual step by step diagnosis which would have taken at least 15 minutes. It took a total of 2 minutes.

It was interesting to note that when I tried to create the concern to day, with everything much colder than the other night, it would not fail. However as the circuit heated, the problem sprung to life.

Many thanks to DA and Dangerous for their time and effort.

Max

[Dangerous]

No dramas - glad to chalk another problem solved up to this forum

It's a real shame that no-one makes any decent quality glass fuses or automotive globes any more.

Max, sounds like you have a nice hatch there - keep it stock, and keep it clean, I reckon.

[hatchssv8]

the hatch will be staying stock until I settle in my new home.
Then all the prep I have done for the rebuild will see it change. Change will be limited to the drivetrain though. Thats all.
Max