
Installation Tips - Red 253/308 Intake Manifold
#1
Posted 10 August 2007 - 12:12 AM
I am about to upgrade the intake on my stock 253 in my LX Hatchback. It's time to ditch the factory 2 barrel manifold and WW Stromberg, and replace it with a factory 4 barrel manifold and Quaddy. At the same time I'll be replacing the points dizzy with my freshly rebuilt and recurved Bosch HEI dizzy. Can't wait!
So what things do I need to look out for?
* What's the best brand of intake manifold gaskets to use?
* Should I fit these gaskets dry or use some sealer - if so, what brand?
* I assume it's best not to use gaskets at the front and rear of the manifold, just use a good thick bead of sealer... once again, what's the best stuff to use here?
* Should all the bolts be the same from my current 2 barrel manifold or am I likely to need different lengths etc?
* Do the bolts go in dry or do I need thread sealant, such as GM Sealer?
I know, I know, it's about time I bought a decent Holden manual! But I'd just like to get a good feel for everything I need to know before I attack the job (aiming for this weekend!).
I will also be doing a "before and after" comparison on the dyno with only these mods. I already have the before graph. And we found by watching the manifold vacuum that this engine is absolutely screaming for more air!! So I'm hoping for a decent improvement. I'll be sure to post up the results too.
Cheers,
Brett.
#2
Posted 10 August 2007 - 11:54 AM
Drain coolant. Pull dizzy. the rest is fairly straight forward.
I use Ezifit gaskets (ACL home brand) from Repco. Glue them to the heads with contact cement (Kwik Grip etc) and silicon around the water outlets. Allow the contact cement to go off before fitting manifold.
Use the silicon bead front and rear.
Bolts will be the same, some may be corroded, have a good look before refitting them.
Don't forget to rewire the ignition circuit for 12V and fit the appropriate coil.
Hope this helps.
#3
_RTS Guy_
Posted 10 August 2007 - 12:43 PM
what about this question?* Do the bolts go in dry or do I need thread sealant, such as GM Sealer?
i am also wondering the answer to this
#4
_[BOTTLEDUP]_
Posted 10 August 2007 - 01:51 PM
#5
Posted 10 August 2007 - 05:01 PM
#6
Posted 10 August 2007 - 05:21 PM
Torana's?
Obviously HQ series Holdens
I've always wondered if the term is used to simply distinguish early heads from the later model VN heads, or if there are actually many varieties of early heads?
PS. Thanks for all the great advice from all involved.
#7
Posted 10 August 2007 - 05:53 PM
There are 3 types of early head, HQ pre pollution or red pre pollution, red pollution and blue/black.
#8
Posted 10 August 2007 - 06:01 PM
#9
_MAWLER_
Posted 14 August 2007 - 07:36 PM
You literally mean, kwik grip, as in selley's, as in stuff for benches and building etc.? Very interesting, never heard of that before, very cool tho, I love it when its not some super special part or material thats needed.Glue them to the heads with contact cement (Kwik Grip etc) and silicon around the water outlets. Allow the contact cement to go off before fitting manifold.
Is it also totally necessary to take the dizzy out, or does it just make it easier with getting the manifold on and off. Going by memory here and not have done many, doesn't the dizzy sit in the block and the manifold is checked in around it type thing?
#10
_LHoon_
Posted 08 January 2009 - 03:11 PM
On a HQ headed Holden V8 the manifold bolt holes in the head are blind, using thread sealer MAY cause the bolt to hydraulic lock before it is truly tight (if it is enthusiastically applied).
Sorry to dig up this old thread...
Should I be applying GM sealant to my VN-head manifold bolts??
#11
_1BADSS_
Posted 09 January 2009 - 12:33 PM
#12
_LHoon_
Posted 09 January 2009 - 01:32 PM
Do any manifold bolts go through to a water jacket with VN-heads?
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