hi, hope someone can shed some light.
I have an LX hatch, i don't take the car out much. Occasionally the brake peddle goes to the floor just after I start driving. it still slows up but not good. after a few pumps the peddle comes up and it's fine.
there's not visible fluid leaking from wheel cylinders but had a stain on the booster so replaced the master cylinder and flushed the lines.
took the car out the other day and it happened again, went to the floor before locking up one wheel (not sure which one?), pumped the peddle and it's good again. the warning light isn't on but lights up ok when tested.
p.s. car has ford 9" rear and HQ front for 15" rims.
any help or thoughts would be great.
Cheers
LX brakes?
Started by
_mal_
, Jan 31 2006 12:18 PM
9 replies to this topic
#2
FastEHHolden
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Posted 31 January 2006 - 02:20 PM
I would have said internal leak in the master..but you replaced it.
Peel the dust boots back on the wheel cylinders and see if fluid has got into the dust boots.
Have you mixed and matched pedals and boosters?
Peel the dust boots back on the wheel cylinders and see if fluid has got into the dust boots.
Have you mixed and matched pedals and boosters?
#3
_tj81_
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Posted 31 January 2006 - 07:01 PM
Perhaps it might be an air lock ?
Bleed the brakes properly and see what happens
Bleed the brakes properly and see what happens
#4
FastEHHolden
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Posted 31 January 2006 - 10:11 PM
if its air its spongy all the time.
if it unadjusted drums they sink but can be pumped up.
For mine its a dodgy booster or an internal hydraulic leak.
if it unadjusted drums they sink but can be pumped up.
For mine its a dodgy booster or an internal hydraulic leak.
#5
_tj81_
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Posted 01 February 2006 - 03:50 PM
Normally i would agree. And like you the first thing i would have thought is master cylinder.
I have seen leaking master cylinders leak into the booster and cause strange issues.
The reason i suggested bleeding the brakes first is because its pretty much the simplest check you can do.
Changing the booster is a bastard of a job unless you have access to all sorts of extension socket bars and wobble bars.
I have seen leaking master cylinders leak into the booster and cause strange issues.
The reason i suggested bleeding the brakes first is because its pretty much the simplest check you can do.
Changing the booster is a bastard of a job unless you have access to all sorts of extension socket bars and wobble bars.
#6
_mal_
_mal_
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Posted 01 February 2006 - 10:38 PM
i thought if there was air in the lines the pedal would always be sinking to the floor. all lines have been bled.
starting to think the NEW master cylinder may have been sitting on the shelf for a while and the seals are shot.
I'll take the master off tomorrow and see if any fluid behind it on the booster.
if a wheel cylinder was leaking (front or rear) the warning light would be on from that safety pin that drops to separate front from rear, i think?.
wierd thing is that it usually only happens after i've been driving for a bit and say pull into a servo, take off and the first pump goes to the floor. not a nice feeling!
apart from all that the idiot i bought the car from cut the lip on the front wheel arches to fit 15"s instead of having them rolled up, so it's a sharp edge at the tops of the wheel arches. No doubt this made these pannels very weak. didn't notice that untill after i bought it though, so my bad luck!
starting to think the NEW master cylinder may have been sitting on the shelf for a while and the seals are shot.
I'll take the master off tomorrow and see if any fluid behind it on the booster.
if a wheel cylinder was leaking (front or rear) the warning light would be on from that safety pin that drops to separate front from rear, i think?.
wierd thing is that it usually only happens after i've been driving for a bit and say pull into a servo, take off and the first pump goes to the floor. not a nice feeling!
apart from all that the idiot i bought the car from cut the lip on the front wheel arches to fit 15"s instead of having them rolled up, so it's a sharp edge at the tops of the wheel arches. No doubt this made these pannels very weak. didn't notice that untill after i bought it though, so my bad luck!
#7
rodomo
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 03:58 AM
Was the M/C new or resleeved? I have heard of resleeved M/C's by-passing around the sleeve.
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#8
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 08:20 AM
my experience in having to replace numerous numbers of master cylinders is is that the prob always 1st appears when the underbonnet temp increases, which would happen after you have it parked for 5 mins or so. So perhaps there is still an issue with the master cylinder.
#9
_mal_
_mal_
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 10:55 AM
the mater cyl was new out of the box.
i'm no expert but can't see it being a booster fault, or so i'm guessing.
i'm no expert but can't see it being a booster fault, or so i'm guessing.
#10
_Perth Brake Parts_
_Perth Brake Parts_
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 11:33 AM
Foot going to floor sounds more like a hydraulic issue
If a booster fails the usual symptoms are a hard to apply pedal
A new master can still be faulty
I'd be looking at the hydraulic side of things before you condemn the booster
If a booster fails the usual symptoms are a hard to apply pedal
A new master can still be faulty
I'd be looking at the hydraulic side of things before you condemn the booster
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