Hi all,
Just a quick question, is it possible to remove the Chrome guttering on an LX sedan without damaging it? If so how would one go about doing it?
Thanks toryman76
Removing Chrome Guttering
Started by
toryman76
, Feb 02 2006 08:59 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
toryman76
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 08:59 PM
#2
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 09:32 PM
Good question. I dunno, but would love to know. I'll hazard a guess that you remove the screw on bit at the rear door, and then unclip it off the bottom first.
^ that says guess, not fact.
^ that says guess, not fact.
#3
toryman76
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 09:54 PM
Yeah the back part around the rear door does unsrew. But its the rest of it that i have no idea on how to remove without damaging it. I had a practise on my crappy torry but couldnt do it with out mangling the chrome piece.
Cheers
Cheers
#4
_Pete_
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 10:27 PM
to remove the drip rail moulds requires basic hand tools, a deft touch and a bit of patience.
I use a flat blade screw driver and a small hammer, If you sit inside the car and place the flat against the bottom edge of the drip rail mould and gently tap it with the hammer it will gently pop off, DONT hit it too hard otherwise you'll force it too hard and it will kink, If you work your way along the moulding will easily come off without any dents,kinks etc.
To refit i like to place the moulding on the top edge and use a downward slapping motion with the palm of my hand to pop the mould back on without any damage.
Its hard to describe i guess but hopefully it will give you some idea.
I use a flat blade screw driver and a small hammer, If you sit inside the car and place the flat against the bottom edge of the drip rail mould and gently tap it with the hammer it will gently pop off, DONT hit it too hard otherwise you'll force it too hard and it will kink, If you work your way along the moulding will easily come off without any dents,kinks etc.
To refit i like to place the moulding on the top edge and use a downward slapping motion with the palm of my hand to pop the mould back on without any damage.
Its hard to describe i guess but hopefully it will give you some idea.
#5
toryman76
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Posted 02 February 2006 - 11:12 PM
Thank you i understand exactly what you mean. Thanks for the info. I just need to be patient when i do mine.
Cheers toryman76
Cheers toryman76
#6
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 03 February 2006 - 07:14 AM
Thanks Pete good info. I was hoping to do this on BMXer's car when we painted it, unfortunately his has painted sills, so never got to do that.
If you do kink it, it can be pressed out by putting it on a flat surface, and pushing the kink out from the back with piece of soft plastic/screwdriver, etc, whatever does the job, although screw driver can score them if pushed too hard/edges dig in. Again, amount of patience in doing this is directly proportional to the result.
If you do kink it, it can be pressed out by putting it on a flat surface, and pushing the kink out from the back with piece of soft plastic/screwdriver, etc, whatever does the job, although screw driver can score them if pushed too hard/edges dig in. Again, amount of patience in doing this is directly proportional to the result.
#7
Heath
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Posted 03 February 2006 - 08:06 AM
Ahhh sweet thanks for the info Pete + Pat, I'm just about to do this on the Sunbird myself.
#8
Dangerous
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Posted 03 February 2006 - 01:07 PM
From my experience, no matter how much patience you use, sometimes the strips still come off slightly bent. This is not an issue as long as you have not damaged the top and bottom edges, which are the clamping surfaces. Whatever you do, don't kink them, as it will be noticeable forever.
I agree with Pete with respect to replacement - put the top lip on first, then 'slap' down on it with your hand. If any parts catch before they sit flush, I have found that a few gentle taps with a soft rubber mallet will pop them into place.
Oh, and it's obvious, but start right from one end and work your way forward/back - DON'T start in the middle. Once you get more than a few cm in place, you can't move the strip back or forward to align it correctly.
I agree with Pete with respect to replacement - put the top lip on first, then 'slap' down on it with your hand. If any parts catch before they sit flush, I have found that a few gentle taps with a soft rubber mallet will pop them into place.
Oh, and it's obvious, but start right from one end and work your way forward/back - DON'T start in the middle. Once you get more than a few cm in place, you can't move the strip back or forward to align it correctly.
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