the roof is completely buggered on my SS, has had a sunroof put in and has some major rust underneath the rear hinges. i have a complete roof and pillars which i cut off another hatch which was crashed.
would you cut and shut through the pillars or unpick the roof skin. just trying to figure out what to do!
cheers!
complete roof replacement
Started by
_timbotorrie_
, Nov 20 2007 07:54 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
_Pete_
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Posted 20 November 2007 - 10:03 PM
Will probably depend on your current roof situation.
If your existing roof has had the inners cut out with the sunroof installation and there is significant rust in the inner sections then you would replace the entire turret assembly, making sure you staggered your joins and fully welded your inners etc.
Otherwise if you only need to change the skin to take care of the sunroof situation and some minor rust then unpicking the skin and welding it on will be a much more simple operation.
If you wanted to post some pics up then I'm sure you will get a consensous on the best method.
Good luck whichever way you decide, we all like to perve on other peoples jobs so post plenty of pics when you do it!!!!
If your existing roof has had the inners cut out with the sunroof installation and there is significant rust in the inner sections then you would replace the entire turret assembly, making sure you staggered your joins and fully welded your inners etc.
Otherwise if you only need to change the skin to take care of the sunroof situation and some minor rust then unpicking the skin and welding it on will be a much more simple operation.
If you wanted to post some pics up then I'm sure you will get a consensous on the best method.
Good luck whichever way you decide, we all like to perve on other peoples jobs so post plenty of pics when you do it!!!!
#3
_Leakey_
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Posted 25 November 2007 - 09:20 AM
Eeeeh! unpicking either way is going to be a toughie.
There is a thread about filling in the sunroof hole. Well.
The only thread I have seen on rust repairs in the roof line
behind the hinge area was about the danger of warping the
roof, and hence changing the hatch apperture.
Try and find them for you.
- Leakey
There is a thread about filling in the sunroof hole. Well.
The only thread I have seen on rust repairs in the roof line
behind the hinge area was about the danger of warping the
roof, and hence changing the hatch apperture.
Try and find them for you.
- Leakey
#4
_SLRMike_
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Posted 30 November 2007 - 09:04 AM
did a roof replace on a sedan many years ago, had the crashie cut and shut it. had no end of problems after that, aligning doors, front and rear screens needed to be porta packed into position. could never get a proper wheel align, the car was never quite right, turned out to be twisted.
personally I would NEVER do it again. I have a car here now that needs minor dent and rust repair to the roof and this will be welded and metal finished.
maybe go for the skin replacement, lota work but I think worth it.
the roof gives the car its structural integrity cut it off and the Torrie will bend like a banana in the middle and even if its supported in a chassis jig like mine was, a few mm out and the expansion and contraction at the welds and it will stuff up a good car.
just my experience.
Mike
personally I would NEVER do it again. I have a car here now that needs minor dent and rust repair to the roof and this will be welded and metal finished.
maybe go for the skin replacement, lota work but I think worth it.
the roof gives the car its structural integrity cut it off and the Torrie will bend like a banana in the middle and even if its supported in a chassis jig like mine was, a few mm out and the expansion and contraction at the welds and it will stuff up a good car.
just my experience.
Mike
#5
GML-31
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Posted 30 November 2007 - 10:06 AM
HSVGTS replaced the roof on the black hatch he is building
by memory they only did the skin
by memory they only did the skin
Edited by GML-31, 30 November 2007 - 10:06 AM.
#6
jass_hatch
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Posted 27 December 2007 - 01:00 PM
I have a hatch which had a sunroof filled in incorrectly and kept cracking. Ive only just replaced the roof by unpicking the skin off another hatch roof and I got a panel beater to unpick the one off my hatch and weld the new skin on. It wasn't to hard unpicking the skin and Ive had no problem with the roof since its been done.
#7
_Leakey_
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Posted 28 December 2007 - 11:11 AM
Have you got any pics of the job? Would love to see any in progress
you might have taken.
Love to see pics of your car anyway!
you might have taken.
Love to see pics of your car anyway!
#8
FastEHHolden
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Posted 28 December 2007 - 11:47 AM
having just cut a sedan up I got to see how structural the roof is....the car sprung about an inch when i cut thru the A pillars.
I reckon you would have to jack the car under the B pillars if you were welding a new roof and lift it until it was about 1/2 inch higher than what straight is...weld the roof on and when it comes off the jacks it would be close to right.
I reckon you would have to jack the car under the B pillars if you were welding a new roof and lift it until it was about 1/2 inch higher than what straight is...weld the roof on and when it comes off the jacks it would be close to right.
#9
TerrA LX
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Posted 28 December 2007 - 12:07 PM
B pillar is the centre pillar, would not jacking this point only bend the chassis out further?
#10
FastEHHolden
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Posted 28 December 2007 - 12:54 PM
It just that it sags down at the centre with no roof..if you lift it there and attach the roof it should come back to square.
Its not something I would wish to attempt at home though..but i do have a roof section cut thru the pillars if anyone in the Sydney/Central Coast/Newcastle areas is chasing one.
Its not something I would wish to attempt at home though..but i do have a roof section cut thru the pillars if anyone in the Sydney/Central Coast/Newcastle areas is chasing one.
#11
rodomo
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Posted 28 December 2007 - 02:44 PM
There is a roof chop happening on another forum that might give you some useful tips.
The brace between the door frames looks like a good idea.
http://www.ausmuscle...?t=348&start=30
The brace between the door frames looks like a good idea.
http://www.ausmuscle...?t=348&start=30
#12
jass_hatch
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Posted 29 December 2007 - 05:16 PM
Some pics of the skin replacement I did.
#13
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Posted 29 December 2007 - 05:26 PM
Sorry,not the best photos as they are off a phone
#14
_ronaldoredsox_
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Posted 29 December 2007 - 07:41 PM
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=21558
This link takes you to pics of my replacement. I have also been through the challenges of a rust filled hatch roof in a separate car. Can send pics of that to you if you want. I had a plate made to insert into the roof of the hatch. The hold fill in the sunroof came from a donor roof. Cheers R
This link takes you to pics of my replacement. I have also been through the challenges of a rust filled hatch roof in a separate car. Can send pics of that to you if you want. I had a plate made to insert into the roof of the hatch. The hold fill in the sunroof came from a donor roof. Cheers R
#15
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Posted 30 December 2007 - 10:33 AM
I done a turret change on a hatch years ago for a m8.
Firstly, let me state I AM NOT A PANEL BEATER! Therefore i am not qualified!
I am a boilermaker, so i know how to weld successfully. If you cant weld, dont try it!
The torana has no chassis support between the front & rear seats. ie, no full chassis!
Look under the car at the chassis rails & you will see what i mean. This is where it will bend when the old turret is removed. The car MUST be supported underneath in as many places as possible. You cant just leave it on the wheels & cut the roof off! It has to be jacked & supported. This will limit the amount of 'sag' when the old turret is removed. If supported correctly, it wont move at all.
Put a brace between the door jamb front & rear to further reduce sag.
Have an honest look at the old turret to determine how much 'A' pillar needs to be removed. Does it have rust in the drip rail? That will tell you roughly where the cuts need to be made. If there is no rust in the existing 'A' pillars, then you may only need to join them at the top.
The pillars have steel sections inside which you may not be able to see, look at the new turret, it will show you what is inside the pillars. That will give you an indication of what you need to cut through.
The internal pillar sections MUST be fully welded, before welding the outer skin.
I put a dumpy level over the SS i done. The car had nearly 20mm of twist . It was clearly visable simply by looking through the rear hatch opening & lining it up by eye. The level confirmed this.
When i took the old turret off, i had to re-level the car to get it back straight. It wasn't that hard of a job. I think it took about 2 days start to finish.
Oh, with the new turret 'tacked' on, re-fit the doors & hatch so you can check the gaps.
I'me sure there is a ton i have forgotten, but i hope this helps. Cheers Col.
Firstly, let me state I AM NOT A PANEL BEATER! Therefore i am not qualified!
I am a boilermaker, so i know how to weld successfully. If you cant weld, dont try it!
The torana has no chassis support between the front & rear seats. ie, no full chassis!
Look under the car at the chassis rails & you will see what i mean. This is where it will bend when the old turret is removed. The car MUST be supported underneath in as many places as possible. You cant just leave it on the wheels & cut the roof off! It has to be jacked & supported. This will limit the amount of 'sag' when the old turret is removed. If supported correctly, it wont move at all.
Put a brace between the door jamb front & rear to further reduce sag.
Have an honest look at the old turret to determine how much 'A' pillar needs to be removed. Does it have rust in the drip rail? That will tell you roughly where the cuts need to be made. If there is no rust in the existing 'A' pillars, then you may only need to join them at the top.
The pillars have steel sections inside which you may not be able to see, look at the new turret, it will show you what is inside the pillars. That will give you an indication of what you need to cut through.
The internal pillar sections MUST be fully welded, before welding the outer skin.
I put a dumpy level over the SS i done. The car had nearly 20mm of twist . It was clearly visable simply by looking through the rear hatch opening & lining it up by eye. The level confirmed this.
When i took the old turret off, i had to re-level the car to get it back straight. It wasn't that hard of a job. I think it took about 2 days start to finish.
Oh, with the new turret 'tacked' on, re-fit the doors & hatch so you can check the gaps.
I'me sure there is a ton i have forgotten, but i hope this helps. Cheers Col.
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