Hey guys I've come across an annoying wiring gremlin I can't find the problem too. Whenever I put the car into reverse and the reverse lights come on the guages and tacho die, indash clock still works fine. If i take the reverse lights wiring off and whack it in reverse this doesn't happen, I can't seem to find the problem but I'm thinking it maybe a dodgy earth somewhere?
Most recent electrical mods have been installing AU fans and a 85amp bosch alternator to suit a vs v8.
Any help is appreciated thanks guys
Wiring Gremlin
Started by
_Aidan_
, Feb 04 2006 06:50 PM
12 replies to this topic
#2
FastEHHolden
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Posted 04 February 2006 - 07:21 PM
Do the reverse lights work properly? not dull or intermittantly flash on and off?
I would find out where they get their power from.
I would find out where they get their power from.
Edited by FastEHHolden, 04 February 2006 - 07:23 PM.
#3
rodomo
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Posted 04 February 2006 - 07:56 PM
With your jumper leads, hook up 1 from engine to body and see if the fault is still there.
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#4
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 04 February 2006 - 08:50 PM
What do you mean by take the reverse wiring off? Have you taken the reverse wire off the fuse terminal?
What happens when you just remove the rear indicator globes?
The reverse lamps and instruments and tacho all come off the same fuse(put reverse wire onto another fuse see what it does, this may give some clues), do the reverse lamps work?
It does sound like some type of short when the reverse switch is engaged, that would see you instrument voltage drop away, but obviously your fuse is still intact.
Do check you have a good earth, at the instrument panel and engine to body to battery earths are good.. as previously suggested.
What happens when you just remove the rear indicator globes?
The reverse lamps and instruments and tacho all come off the same fuse(put reverse wire onto another fuse see what it does, this may give some clues), do the reverse lamps work?
It does sound like some type of short when the reverse switch is engaged, that would see you instrument voltage drop away, but obviously your fuse is still intact.
Do check you have a good earth, at the instrument panel and engine to body to battery earths are good.. as previously suggested.
#5
_Aidan_
_Aidan_
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Posted 04 February 2006 - 09:37 PM
The reverse lights work properly FastEHHolden.
I fixed the problem, althought it doesn't really make sense to me. I had a closer look at the fuses and the 11 - 12 fuse (reverse lights) as broken, I replaced that and everything works fine now. What has me stumped it how the reverse light still operated with a broken fuse..explain that.. wierd.
When i meant take the reverse light wiring off, i mean disconnect it from the auto-shifter (standard trimatic shifter).
I fixed the problem, althought it doesn't really make sense to me. I had a closer look at the fuses and the 11 - 12 fuse (reverse lights) as broken, I replaced that and everything works fine now. What has me stumped it how the reverse light still operated with a broken fuse..explain that.. wierd.
When i meant take the reverse light wiring off, i mean disconnect it from the auto-shifter (standard trimatic shifter).
#6
rodomo
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Posted 04 February 2006 - 10:11 PM
When you say the fuse was broken, if it was broken in either end cap it was probably connecting enough to run the dash. But as soon as it got loaded with 2 x 21 watt reverse lights it probably couldn't carry the load and open circuited.
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#7
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 05:40 AM
Doesnt make a whole lot of sense to me either, but Rodomo could be right. If the fuse was partially closed then fully opening under load, then the reversing lamps wouldnt have worked either, or would have flickered and have been quite dim, they would be more affected than the instruments.
One possibilty is that the reversing lamp wire was incorrectly connected to the live side of the fuse and when operated caused heat which caused partial opening of the fuse that your instruments are connected to.
One thing that would clear conjecture here, was the fuse totally severed or just the ends had become loose?
One possibilty is that the reversing lamp wire was incorrectly connected to the live side of the fuse and when operated caused heat which caused partial opening of the fuse that your instruments are connected to.
One thing that would clear conjecture here, was the fuse totally severed or just the ends had become loose?
#8
_Aidan_
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 10:20 PM
the fuse, the part in the glass was severed was not connecting. which I didnt notice when I first checked it out. which has me stumped as to how the lights still worked. They are connected to the correct sides as I check in the UC hatchback gregory's manual
#9
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 10:28 PM
Yup, electrickery is weird stuff. Glad to hear you found it anyways.
#10
rodomo
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 10:48 PM
It pays to always check glass fuses at the endcaps with a test light for continuity rather than just visual. But having said that the little buggers can be ok with a test light and let go when loaded.
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#11
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 11:00 PM
Aidan, you have a UC?, what is the state of play with your emission controls?
#12
_uc253_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 09:23 PM
this aidans dad aidan car all gas has no emission controls all remove when gas engine fitted
#13
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 10:23 PM
Asked as emission control wires also all run of the fuse, if been all removed, have the wires all been properly terminated so no actual shorts can happen. had this happen on one of my UC's where the wires had been cut and disconnected and later one of them welded itself onto the block causing various problems with the instruments, warning lights glowing etc + the same fuse blown.
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