Anyone got any hints on stretching the wheel arce on a 4 Door LC. I was just going to cut out the back half of the wheel arce in a square up the line above the arce and move it back 4 inches and fill in the gap and remake the lip. I want to lenghten the wheel base as well a couple inches. Anyone got any other hints?
lengthing the rear wheelarce on a LC 4 door?
Started by
_pro386_
, Feb 07 2006 07:06 PM
20 replies to this topic
#2
_jap-xu1_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:13 PM
33's are fkn huge!
you are going to have to cut into the rear door.
if you change the wheelbase enough to allow 33's in there without seriously cutting into the rear door the car will look rediculous.
my advice is quit while you are ahead and get a 2door
you are going to have to cut into the rear door.
if you change the wheelbase enough to allow 33's in there without seriously cutting into the rear door the car will look rediculous.
my advice is quit while you are ahead and get a 2door
#3
_pro386_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:22 PM
i'll only have to cut the back of the door frame which will be kept closed with fastners. The tyres will be inside the quarter panel they won't hang out like a four wheel drive. The car is getting a 3/4 promod chassis put in it
#4
_jap-xu1_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:29 PM
lol i know that.The tyres will be inside the quarter panel they won't hang out like a four wheel drive.
if you are removing the whole rear floor anyway your original question is kind of irrelevant.
you wont need to stretch it cause the tyres will just sit inside it anyway.
i stretched my 2door guards 100mm to fit 28" tyres
#5
_pro386_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:35 PM
i still need to stretch them because the tyres will be 2 close together. I am only going to have 16 inchs in between the 4 link bars. When the spacing is that close you can only just get the weld on the inside passenger side bracket on the diff cause its up against the diff centre
#6
_jap-xu1_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:38 PM
i reckon its gonna require serious rear door mods
#7
_pro386_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:43 PM
the back doors will only be a skin like the fronts. so it'll be all cool
#8
_jap-xu1_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:49 PM
skin or no skin you need to move the arch forward.
what is there 1 maybe 2 inches of body before the door starts?
it just wont fit a 33 man.
mark the centre of the axle. then with a tape mark at least 17.5 inches forward. thats gotta be the inside of your tub.
i bet its about 3 or more inches into the rear door
what is there 1 maybe 2 inches of body before the door starts?
it just wont fit a 33 man.
mark the centre of the axle. then with a tape mark at least 17.5 inches forward. thats gotta be the inside of your tub.
i bet its about 3 or more inches into the rear door
#9
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:53 PM
If it's a crossply slick, you would have to allow for a few inches of tyre growth as your speed increases.
#10
_pro386_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 08:05 PM
they will fit because there will be nothing inside the door no door catch or post on the shell all that is cut out and with the axle line back 2 inchs they will fit with only a slight mod to the front wheel arch like on my other car for 26 x 11.50s and the back part of the wheel arch will get moved back 5 inchs which is the same as the CRAZY torana but it's been extended evenly. You don't need any strength in the shell cause its just tacked on to the chassis for the ride. I've just done a 3/4 chassis in my brothers 4 door commodore and it turned out pretty good. What happens with the door is the last of my worries as it will be a skin only so its no different to a 2 door. It just getting the back of the arch to look nice
#11
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 08:10 PM
So where are you located pro386? I may be in need of your handy work.
#12
_pro386_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 08:17 PM
In Bundy I've only done my brothers car so far and about to do mine. It's not that hard just do heaps of reading up on chassis design. I looked at some yank sites that specialise in 25.2 sfi 3/4 chassis and just copied how they did it. I only have had to buy things like 4 link brackets and bars, rod ends and rear sway bars. Rest you can do yourself in your own shed with mild steel. Just a guy thats sick of paying other people to do the job and having to fix it myself anyway
#13
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 08:20 PM
I have a severe lack of practice at welding. Which is only exceeded by my lack of time to pactice. I'm just looking at mini tubs at this stage, but that could change by the time that job starts.
#14
_pro386_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 08:26 PM
CHOPPER I have a 220 amp mig, a $150 tube bender and a tube indexer and only basic tools doesn't cost a lot and this is all a lot of the chassis guys have in their workshops. I didn't think i could do it either until i started my brothers car. Gave me great satisfaction the day it rolled out my shed so i could start mine.
#15
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 08:31 PM
I intend on doing a TAFE panel beating course some time. Just too many other expensive things ahead of it on the list ATM.
#16
ToRunYa
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 01:24 PM
^ lets hope you dont get my old teacher, he gave me a crumpled bit of metal that looked like it had been to the metal recyclers and told me to straighten it, it took me a semester to find out it was off a 180b. Cruel bastard lol.
#17
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 06:21 PM
I will more than likely be going to Richmond TAFE.
#18
Heath
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 06:31 PM
Has Richmond been recommended to you for its Automotive courses, Chopper? I'm intending on doing a few TAFE Courses but now that I'm in VCE, time and money are both very limited.
When I do get some time and cash to pay for it, would you recommend a certain campus? I was thinking of just seeing what BHT has to offer.
- Didn't mean to steal the thread but i did it anyway, sorry.
When I do get some time and cash to pay for it, would you recommend a certain campus? I was thinking of just seeing what BHT has to offer.
- Didn't mean to steal the thread but i did it anyway, sorry.
#19
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 06:45 PM
Richmond TAFE was at the time the only place that did a night course. Starts around 7.30 PM ON Wednasday nights. Goes for nine weeks and costs ( then ) $300. Haven't checked lately, as I'm not looking at doing the course before July.
#20
gtrboyy
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Posted 10 February 2006 - 03:49 PM
One of the guys who tubbed my lc has a lj 4 door,what he did was move the wheel back a few inches so that he only had to stretch the wheel arch on the 1/4 panel.The back doors are just skins with a little bit of frame left & to open them you pull the pins out to open the doors.
#21
_pro386_
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Posted 10 February 2006 - 07:00 PM
Yeah thats exactly what i'm going to do by the look of it GTRBOYY. A couple extra inchs of wheelbase will only help the car handle better.
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