hi guys ..im having a bit of a problem with my 202 red motor.. it is constantly overheating... its not so bad when the car is moving but as soon as i stop at traffic light etc. the temp goes right up... ive put in a new water pump and that helped a little. but it still gets hot when i stop. the only other thing i can think of is bad flow through the radiator.. has anyone got any other suggestions before i go get it reconditioned?????? cheers...tod
overheating
Started by
_todandkatslj_
, Jan 30 2008 03:03 PM
26 replies to this topic
#2
MRLXSS
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 03:19 PM
It may be a blockage in the radiator. Have you tried flushing the system completely out yet?
As a bandaid solution, fit a thermo fan to the rad instead of the engine fan. That way the way will run when it gets hot!
As a bandaid solution, fit a thermo fan to the rad instead of the engine fan. That way the way will run when it gets hot!
#4
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 04:04 PM
Make sure you are running a fine filter for your coolant. You don't want your system pumping around rust and other crap, this filter should be placed before the radiator, not afterwards (makes it easier to work on and more effective, but definatley doesn't help the look of the engine bay).
#5
_Bigmac123_99_
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 04:16 PM
check for air pockets in your water suply, have you bleed the cooling system before???? also check the thermostat, make sure that it is opening to allow proper circulation at the correct temp.
let us know how it goes
let us know how it goes
#6
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 04:40 PM
If you go the route of cleaning the radiator and reverse flushing the block etc be sure to undo the bolt down low on the engine block (I am assuming a 202 has one like the V8's do) and be a bit careful that it doesn't break whilst attempting to loosen it as they tend to rust in.
When I get that bolt undone I like to squirt a good strong hose in the hole and watch the water coming out where the radiator pipes have been removed, you will be surprised at how much mud and gunk can come out.
Of course it could also be a head gasket or worse as mentioned above.
When and if all this above ^^^^fails take it to a radiator place and have them check your system.
Cheers
Herne
When I get that bolt undone I like to squirt a good strong hose in the hole and watch the water coming out where the radiator pipes have been removed, you will be surprised at how much mud and gunk can come out.
Of course it could also be a head gasket or worse as mentioned above.
When and if all this above ^^^^fails take it to a radiator place and have them check your system.
Cheers
Herne
#8
surfmaster
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 06:14 PM
head gasket
incorrect timing
blocked radiator
wrong engine fan
dud water pump
blocked thermostat
just for starters!!!!
incorrect timing
blocked radiator
wrong engine fan
dud water pump
blocked thermostat
just for starters!!!!
#9
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 06:20 PM
Have a read through this one. Its the stickied post at the top of this section. Its got some good starters.
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=16117
Steve
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=16117
Steve
#10
_threeblindmice_
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 07:07 PM
When you first start in the morning if you can put your hand over different spots on the front of the radiator and as it warms up if you find cold spots it could mean thats a blockage,or remove thermostat and try,or timing. If the car was sitting for some time it can dump its crap it the radiator when driven .cheers
#11
meanmachine72
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 07:48 PM
yes ..maybe..you had to change the fan to stop itcould you be using the wrong type waterpump?
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=15710
hitting the radiator tod.....
#12
FastEHHolden
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 07:56 PM
you just changed engine?
it is a blocked radiator.
it is a blocked radiator.
#13
_todandkatslj_
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 08:19 PM
im just waiting on a price for a new radiator and ill see if that works.... other than that im stumped
#14
FastEHHolden
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 08:22 PM
Its $100 to clean them out...I'm getting mine done very soon.
#15
meanmachine72
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Posted 30 January 2008 - 08:27 PM
gotta radiator here mate. got a couple even a 4 core one..(desert cooler)
we can sort something out..want to borrow to suss it out???
we can sort something out..want to borrow to suss it out???
#16
FastEHHolden
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 01:47 PM
The plug referred to in that post is next to the starter motor on a red 6.If you go the route of cleaning the radiator and reverse flushing the block etc be sure to undo the bolt down low on the engine block (I am assuming a 202 has one like the V8's do) and be a bit careful that it doesn't break whilst attempting to loosen it as they tend to rust in.
Mine fixed itself today....gave itself an automatic hot reverse flush!!!
I headed down the F3..but soon the engine hesitated..the converter had frozen (lpg), so I pulled over, released the cap slowly and the radiator started venting into my overflow bottle...I used that hot water to thaw the converter....I finally removed the cap completely and started the engine...I refilled the engine...the car had been running for about 5 minutes and i was trying to get hot water to flow thru the converter by squeezing all the hoses to force any trapped air into the radiator...eventually the converter started to warm..at this point i switched the engine off...2 seconds later water erupted from the filler neck and shot a column of water about 2 feet high..I checked the converter again...started the engine and slowly refilled the radiator..got in the car and drove the rest of the way to work sitting just above 80 degrees....which it never does....fixed.
Edited by FastEHHolden, 31 January 2008 - 01:48 PM.
#17
dattoman
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 01:53 PM
Have you considered the fact its summer ?
lmao
lmao
#18
FastEHHolden
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 02:14 PM
yes..the irony of having a car that is frozen yet overheating is not lost on me....it normally runs on 100.
The trip home will be the test....lets hope the trucks can stay on the black stuff today and not hit the rock wall
The trip home will be the test....lets hope the trucks can stay on the black stuff today and not hit the rock wall
#19
_waratah_
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 04:53 PM
the red is so prone to depsiting little bits of rust in the cores of the radiator, my old eh's radiator blocked way too easily.
we found that once you get the crap out or moving putting a bit of wire mesh in the top radiator hose where it connects to the radiator, abit of silicon helps stop leaks.
checking it everytime you drive it decently gives you an idea whats floating around and you catch it.
we found that once you get the crap out or moving putting a bit of wire mesh in the top radiator hose where it connects to the radiator, abit of silicon helps stop leaks.
checking it everytime you drive it decently gives you an idea whats floating around and you catch it.
Edited by waratah, 31 January 2008 - 04:53 PM.
#20
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 05:51 PM
Look at it logically, the thing runs ok while moving, but not when it stops? Sounds like an airflow problem, maybe your fan is not up to the task at hand. I know a few people who have had similar problems and found it was as simple as the grub screw for the thermo fan blades coming loose, so the fan was not working as well as it should. Fitting a bigger radiator will not help if you have an actual problem. I had a problem with my cooling system and did a lot of testing and checking to ensure the problem was fixed and unless you do some serious work to your engine, or fit accessories like aircon, don't bother with expensive massive radiators. Look at the size of those fitted in the latest commodores, not very big at all.
read this link
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=13370
read this link
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=13370
#21
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 09:34 PM
Had the same problem recently and replaced the clutch fan which fixed the problem.Feel for air flow in the engine bay while motor is running to tell if cool air is drawn through the radiator.
#22
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 10:05 PM
Can you see through the radiator matrix?
#23
LX2DR
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Posted 31 January 2008 - 11:21 PM
Take the thermostat out.
Put it in an old pot, put enough cold water in to cover it.
Heat the water up, (On the stove) the thermostat should open fully before it starts to boil.
I had one that only opened half way even at boiling point, was overheating in winter with a brand new radiator core.
New thermostat, fixed.
Paul
Put it in an old pot, put enough cold water in to cover it.
Heat the water up, (On the stove) the thermostat should open fully before it starts to boil.
I had one that only opened half way even at boiling point, was overheating in winter with a brand new radiator core.
New thermostat, fixed.
Paul
#24
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Posted 01 February 2008 - 06:34 AM
What was the problem with your car again please Red, was it the core?
#25
_The Baron_
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Posted 01 February 2008 - 11:07 AM
A while ago REDTAXI had a heating issue on the highway---?
He replaced existing water pump with an original GMH pump with cast impellor and all was fixed.
Cheap pumps with the fabricated tin impellor cavitate too easy.
Cooling system function can be broken down to two major parts.
Water flow and air flow.
Water flow too low and the heat is not moved to the radiator quick enough to cool the engine.
Water flow too high and the water distribution/circulation through the engine does not have enough residence time to absorb the heat efficiently and therefor carry it to the radiator. Parts of the engine remain hot as the flow bypasses those areas through the easier paths in the engine.
That is why it is not a good idea to completely remove the thermostat.
Air flow--you can never have to much although it can bring on the thermostat stutters--fixed by having a reasonable thermostat bypass path (hole in thermostat or external hose as per later holdens)
Just my 2 cents, I hope it helps a little.
He replaced existing water pump with an original GMH pump with cast impellor and all was fixed.
Cheap pumps with the fabricated tin impellor cavitate too easy.
Cooling system function can be broken down to two major parts.
Water flow and air flow.
Water flow too low and the heat is not moved to the radiator quick enough to cool the engine.
Water flow too high and the water distribution/circulation through the engine does not have enough residence time to absorb the heat efficiently and therefor carry it to the radiator. Parts of the engine remain hot as the flow bypasses those areas through the easier paths in the engine.
That is why it is not a good idea to completely remove the thermostat.
Air flow--you can never have to much although it can bring on the thermostat stutters--fixed by having a reasonable thermostat bypass path (hole in thermostat or external hose as per later holdens)
Just my 2 cents, I hope it helps a little.
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