How are you all going?
Just need all the info i need when fitting Electronic Dizzy to a 186 engine in a LC 1970 Model.....
do i have to change any wiring...or remove any more parts....
what will be the effect on the ignition?? im guessing smooth start up as it will be bigger and better spark...but more info would be great....
Converting To Electronic Dizzy
Started by
gooley
, Feb 18 2008 11:26 PM
17 replies to this topic
#1
gooley
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Posted 18 February 2008 - 11:26 PM
#2
rodomo
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Posted 18 February 2008 - 11:34 PM
You will need the correct 12V coil and a 12V supply to the coil from the Ign. switch or Ign. powered terminal at the fuse panel. The pink original wire to the original coil is resisted and only supplies 9V when loaded.
#3
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 18 February 2008 - 11:38 PM
You should be able to bypass the ballast resister by installing a jumper on the ignition switch. That wil give you the full 12V required.
#4
_Herne_
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Posted 19 February 2008 - 12:10 AM
I remember seeing some comprehensive threads on this. Might be worth a good search.
Herne
Herne
#5
gooley
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Posted 19 February 2008 - 12:03 PM
Thanks for the PM devilsadvocate.... a lot of info
#6
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Posted 19 February 2008 - 09:46 PM
Phantom of the Phorum.
#7
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 15 June 2008 - 10:27 PM
Getting banned doesn't do much for ones self esteem. Been there done that.
#8
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 16 June 2008 - 12:29 PM
Thats all i did with the LJ.You should be able to bypass the ballast resister by installing a jumper on the ignition switch. That wil give you the full 12V required.
Steve
#9
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 16 June 2008 - 07:38 PM
hmm, for once I thought this was a hard job to do.. But can I get one thing straight...
All I have to do is, keep the old yellow wire (the original resisted 9v wire for points dizzy) on the new 12v coil.. and install a new wire which has the full 12v. This is done by unscrewing the fuse panel, connected another wire to the ignition switch (spade terminal or solder it on?) and running it straight through the firewall and onto the positive coil?
Is that all what's needed?
All I have to do is, keep the old yellow wire (the original resisted 9v wire for points dizzy) on the new 12v coil.. and install a new wire which has the full 12v. This is done by unscrewing the fuse panel, connected another wire to the ignition switch (spade terminal or solder it on?) and running it straight through the firewall and onto the positive coil?
Is that all what's needed?
Edited by Chriskoss-79uc, 16 June 2008 - 07:39 PM.
#10
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 16 June 2008 - 09:28 PM
Easier than that, locate the pink and yellow wires on the ignition plug, and solder a short bit of wire across them.
The old points dizzy gets 12vs on starting (yellow wire) and then when the key is in the on position gets like 9vs on running (pink wire). So all you are doing is connecting the yellow wire during starting and running.
On the LJs its yellow and pink wires... not sure for others, but the resistive wire should have something writen on it with an ohms symbol.
Steve
The old points dizzy gets 12vs on starting (yellow wire) and then when the key is in the on position gets like 9vs on running (pink wire). So all you are doing is connecting the yellow wire during starting and running.
On the LJs its yellow and pink wires... not sure for others, but the resistive wire should have something writen on it with an ohms symbol.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 16 June 2008 - 09:30 PM.
#11
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 16 June 2008 - 10:38 PM
Hey steve, thanks for the info.
Yeah on my UC there are 3 pink wires.. 1 fat one on its own, located top left of the fuse box, and two conjoined ones on the right in the middle..
I think I'll stick to the easiest way for me and run a seperate 12v wire.. Where should I solder this to? the fat pink wire on the left location?
Chris
Yeah on my UC there are 3 pink wires.. 1 fat one on its own, located top left of the fuse box, and two conjoined ones on the right in the middle..
I think I'll stick to the easiest way for me and run a seperate 12v wire.. Where should I solder this to? the fat pink wire on the left location?
Chris
#12
TerrA LX
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Posted 16 June 2008 - 11:16 PM
Chris, use ur yellow wire from the coil to "trigger" the new relay with a new 12V power feed from ur fuse box/battery thru the relay and to the new coil. Install complete.
#13
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Posted 16 June 2008 - 11:50 PM
No. 1 (green) would be OEM yellow wire and No.5 will power ur new coil.
Some good info here http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
Edited by ALX76, 16 June 2008 - 11:58 PM.
#14
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 17 June 2008 - 12:23 AM
Thanks for the help mate, made the relay real easy even for me!
Can the way I described be done though? By running a bare wire from the fuse box 12v to the ignition coil? It's a job I can do at home by myself without going out and getting new wires and a relay etc because I am lazy..
p.s when you timed the 202 in my care mate, you put white out marker on the timing mark of the harmonic balancer yeh? I found it so it made things much easier. There are 2 lines.. do I time it up in between these 2 lines?
Can the way I described be done though? By running a bare wire from the fuse box 12v to the ignition coil? It's a job I can do at home by myself without going out and getting new wires and a relay etc because I am lazy..
p.s when you timed the 202 in my care mate, you put white out marker on the timing mark of the harmonic balancer yeh? I found it so it made things much easier. There are 2 lines.. do I time it up in between these 2 lines?
#15
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Posted 17 June 2008 - 12:31 AM
Can the way I described be done though? By running a bare wire from the fuse box 12v to the ignition coil? It's a job I can do at home by myself without going out and getting new wires and a relay etc because I am lazy..
It will work better with its own power supply, from the battery.
when you timed the 202 in my care mate, you put white out marker on the timing mark of the harmonic balancer yeh? I found it so it made things much easier. There are 2 lines.. do I time it up in between these 2 lines?
If i put the mark on the case at 6degrees then Yes, the two lines should line up (with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged from the dizzy end...
Edited by ALX76, 17 June 2008 - 12:34 AM.
#17
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 17 June 2008 - 07:13 PM
Please elaborate what you mean?14v not 12 v by the way.
And thanks Terry
#18
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Posted 17 June 2008 - 10:08 PM
^ what he means is that the normal 12V system in ur car runs at 14V with the alternator running, just disregard and think 12V.
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