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Gasless Mig Welders


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#1 _rorym_

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 05:32 PM

When I was a Bombers in Rocky I was amazed at how easy the MIG wire gas welder he had was to use,well it looked that way..he says it is compared to the old rod style.. There is one at the local hardware store..a SIP Gasless little unit. Are these things difficult to use with out gas?..I just want to do the old job on the car and around the farm.
R

#2 _SLR_6_

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 06:17 PM

your better off looking around for a 2nd hand brand name gas/gassless,

gassless mig's work, but make a mess of things too easy.

#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 06:23 PM

Go for gas, alot better and easier to use.

#4 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 08:51 PM

I have a roll of gassless for emergencies (running out of gas). Works OK, but like stick, creates a lot of spatter. No where as neat as gas, but it gets you out of trouble.

As you rely on the wire to create the flux shield like stick you need to pull your welds rather than push like with normal MIG. Left to right if your right handed.

I have stick, mig and oxy. If I had my time again, I'd probably do a good inverter type stick welder, and spend the extra $250ish on the TIG lead, then grab a bottle of Argon. I think that gives you pretty good capacity, but I also love TIG welding.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 15 March 2008 - 08:54 PM.


#5 Statler

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 07:09 PM

IMHO, go for full gas.
It's dear on the gas, but better quality on the weldment!
There are ways around that too!

I'me not a believer on 'gassless migs'!
I have tried them, with good results, but still not convinced!
Boilermaker for 26yrs! I quite enjoy the the taste of Argoshield!

#6 71xu1

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 09:28 PM

Most migs now are gas/gasless migs so you can have the best of both worlds if the machine hasn,t got a switch on the front for switching over it is usually located were the wire spool is inside the machine around where the hanpiece cable goes thru all you do is swap the two wires around that are attached by spade clips.

#7 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 11:06 PM

Gasless migs are fine for welding Ford steering arms and tailshafts.

#8 RIM-010

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 08:13 AM

:spit:

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#9 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 05:59 PM

^^^^ big gas migs are nice. You'll need about $2k for a good one. Good welders are nice.

^^^ if you have a gas mig, you just put in gasless wire in, and don't turn on the gas.

#10 TerrA LX

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 06:14 PM

if you have a gas mig, you just put in gasless wire in, and don't turn on the gas.

I thought you had to reverse the polarity.

#11 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 09:41 PM

Nup, I think you are thinking TIG. Most MIGs are set up for reverse polarity in proper welding speak anyway (+'ve') at the hand piece and (-'ve') to the work. It gives better penetrating welds.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 17 March 2008 - 09:45 PM.


#12 _Pete_

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 10:06 PM

My little gas/gasless MIG at home here requires the polarity to be changed when switching between set-ups.

My personal opinion is the Gasless stuff is really only suitable for welding up a farm gate off a generator out in the paddock etc, for automotive sheetmetal/fabrication the Gas set-up give a much nicer more sound weld.

The Boilermakers here are the blokes we need to listen to, anyone who sits on the end of a MIG gun and an Angle Grinder all day would know their stuff.

#13 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 17 March 2008 - 10:11 PM

^ true that, but it is not a necessity. Still works alright reverse polarity, but still very messy, not at all like you expect from MIG.

#14 _rorym_

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Posted 18 March 2008 - 02:32 PM

^^^ if you have a gas mig, you just put in gasless wire in, and don't turn on the gas.

That sounds like the go.
R

#15 _3point3_

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Posted 18 March 2008 - 06:50 PM

I believe MIG stands for "Metal Inert Gas" (ie argon, or some mixes of it). Gasless is more like arc welding with a filler stick, but if you (not like me) can master it you can do OK!

#16 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 March 2008 - 08:04 PM

I think everyone has been fairly strait up R. Like i said gasless would do but a gas one would definitely be better. A lot better.

3point3 nailed it. Using gas is how a mig was designed.

Cheers.

#17 _racyrabbit_

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Posted 20 March 2008 - 04:19 PM

Rory as i am the oldest boilermaker still alive , we didnt have migs when i stated , we only had choke stick welders , and we have had this conversation before gas mig is the only way all the rest giveing advice are not boilermakers , and i have a very good mig that cost only a bit over a grand there is a forum member that sells migs on here and his advice is spot on , i would only heed the advice on welders from people that are sheet metal workers , panel beaters and boilermakers, listen to cooln groovy hes a boily , if you want a demo next time dropping through will bring my toy with me , TREX

#18 _Pete_

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Posted 20 March 2008 - 07:47 PM

Rex is spot on....my old man is a Boilermaker by trade and picks apart my welds regardless on how nice they look etc..

Mind you my old man picks apart everything in the world but still he knows his stuff.

Another vote for GAS here! you would only end up disappointed buying a gasless.

#19 _lx-304_

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 07:17 AM

gas is a must,as a sheet metal worker i weld 1mm -1.6mm all day with little distortion.gasless gives you must less penetration,leaves a dry old weld on top of the job unless you turn it up on the heat, and for panel steel the less heat is better.if you are using gasless,the wire is .8mm and you must use .9mm tip to stop flux build up on the tip.a gasless welder is basically still a stick welder.penetration is one of the most important thinggs,especially if you are doing bogless repairs.and when repairing holes and welding in plates etc,a piece of 5mm copper plate is your best freind.placing this behind the weld you can fill the gaps with no ugly bits hanging off the back.(this is because the weld does not take to the copper.)again gas is a must and gasless is in my opinion is not for work that needs to be dressed up.the weld is higher and i think even harder,which will require more grinding,which means more heat,which means wobbles.

#20 rodomo

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 05:15 PM

and when repairing holes and welding in plates etc,a piece of 5mm copper plate is your best freind.placing this behind the weld you can fill the gaps with no ugly bits hanging off the back.(this is because the weld does not take to the copper.)

And the copper would take the heat away quicker rather than spreading it through the panel???

#21 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:09 PM

Yes. And for the reason we have copper based saucepans, rather than saucepans with panel steel bases. Copper simply transfers heat better.




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