Hi guys
I have bought all new tie rods, ball joints and suspension rubbers for the front end of my LX. I have change the rubbers before but I have never changed a ball joint or tie rod before. The ones on the car are the factory originals. Any tips on how to change the tie rods and ball joints. Im sure they will not be easy, but I am also sure there are some little tips you guys can give me to make the job easier. Obviously apart from going somewhere to get it done. Any help you guys can give me would be much appriciated.
Cheers
Changing Tie Rods & Ball Joints
Started by
_crumpledoor_
, Mar 21 2008 10:32 AM
30 replies to this topic
#2
TerrA LX
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 10:36 AM
IMO do not change the upper ball joints unless they are worn.
Advice on changing, i just follow the service manual.
Advice on changing, i just follow the service manual.
#3
_crumpledoor_
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 10:42 AM
Why would I not change the tops ones? I have all new ones, and it would put my mind at ease knowing my front end is all new. Especially with highway driving. So are tie rod ends relatively easy to change?
#4
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 08:39 PM
The top ones are riveted in from factory and usually never wear, IF you change them, you will have to grind the top of the rivets to knock them out, then, IF you have the good top ones, they bolt in with 4 bolts in place of the rivets, bad ones, as i have seen have a rubber boot that interferes with bolting them in, IMO i would not change one unless worn, also because of this, the factory ones can not come loose so make sure you use the correct bolts and nuts, not some cheap chinese weak bolts and nylocks some come with.
Bottom ones are bashed out with a large hammer, i use correct diameter pipe that fits over the ball joint to support the control are when hammering, installation is basically the reverse, supporting the arm from the opposite side i place the bottom ball joint in evenly then hammer it in with a socket that fits snugly on the bottom. A better way to do it is have a shop press them in for you. Most guys see use my method without a press.
Do a search on good ball joints, top ones like MOOG can cost upwards of $200 for a set, but it is money well spent if you are worried about
P.S. This job also requires removal of the stub axle obviously and anything else in the way, seperating the stub from the joints can be a pain and i have one of those cheap "ball joint removal tools", looks like a folk, for help there.
Bottom ones are bashed out with a large hammer, i use correct diameter pipe that fits over the ball joint to support the control are when hammering, installation is basically the reverse, supporting the arm from the opposite side i place the bottom ball joint in evenly then hammer it in with a socket that fits snugly on the bottom. A better way to do it is have a shop press them in for you. Most guys see use my method without a press.
Do a search on good ball joints, top ones like MOOG can cost upwards of $200 for a set, but it is money well spent if you are worried about
highway driving
P.S. This job also requires removal of the stub axle obviously and anything else in the way, seperating the stub from the joints can be a pain and i have one of those cheap "ball joint removal tools", looks like a folk, for help there.
Edited by ALX76, 21 March 2008 - 08:42 PM.
#5
surfmaster
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 08:54 PM
Tie rods are easy, undo the castelated nut, undo the lock nut on the tie rod knock the end of the steering arm with a hammer and they should come out of the arm, unscrew the tie rod end until it comes off the tie rod, count the exact number of turns and put the new one on the exact same amount of turns. This will put your steering close to where it was with the old bits. You will have to have a proper wheel alignment done after all these bits are changed.
#6
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 09:01 PM
Ditto on the tie rods.
Forgot to mention that when you have the wheel off and go to separate the stub from the joint that the bottom are will be under tension from the suspension spring, if it flys out it can kill you so either use spring compressors first or with your chassis stands supporting the chassis, use a trolley jack under the lower control arm to prevent this.
Do you have chassis stands and a decent trolley jack for this job?
Forgot to mention that when you have the wheel off and go to separate the stub from the joint that the bottom are will be under tension from the suspension spring, if it flys out it can kill you so either use spring compressors first or with your chassis stands supporting the chassis, use a trolley jack under the lower control arm to prevent this.
Do you have chassis stands and a decent trolley jack for this job?
#7
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 11:17 PM
American Autos Lower MOOG K5103 $74.25
American Autos Upper MOOG K5108 $77.00
You can buy them from the USA. Two MOOG uppers and two MOOG lowers delivered International Priority (3-5 days) to your door for USD $134.86 including freight.
http://www.rockauto.com
American Autos Upper MOOG K5108 $77.00
You can buy them from the USA. Two MOOG uppers and two MOOG lowers delivered International Priority (3-5 days) to your door for USD $134.86 including freight.
http://www.rockauto.com
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 March 2008 - 11:19 PM.
#8
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 11:20 PM
The american auto links are password protected
#9
_crumpledoor_
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Posted 21 March 2008 - 11:29 PM
Yes I have stands. I do all my work myself just never changed ball joints or tie rods before. I have changed front end rubbers before, and yeah I know about the spring flying out. Did exactly what you said the first time and it worked a treat. Better than death by spring. Great advice though guys, I cant see me having too many problems after your advice. Just depends on how hard the are to get out LOL.
#10
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 11:36 AM
See if any of these links work. The American Autos site is difficult to link to.
Lower K5103
Upper K5108
LH-LX Front Suspension
American Autos
Half price delivered from USA. Enter K5103 or K5108 in part number search.
Rock Auto
Summit Racing
Lower K5103
Upper K5108
LH-LX Front Suspension
American Autos
Half price delivered from USA. Enter K5103 or K5108 in part number search.
Rock Auto
Summit Racing
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 22 March 2008 - 11:40 AM.
#11
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 11:50 AM
O.K. now. Thanx for the info ls2lxhatch
#12
_crumpledoor_
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 05:28 PM
OK I have been working on the tie rods today. After I did the passenger side I realised that the boxes had different codes. The codes are the same except for one ends in "L" and one in"R". I didnt realise but I have put the "R" on the passenger side. I went to put the drivers side on before I realised all of that and it wont thread on. Should it still thread on or do right and left have different sized threads? I wouldnt imagine they would but you never know. Or have I just been given one that is the wrong product. Help I am stuck, please help! Codes on the boxes are: PTE195L & PTE195R
Cheers
Cheers
#13
_crumpledoor_
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 06:11 PM
Found the problem, manufacturing fault. Upon closer inspection I have noticed the thread has not been cut into the tie rod properly.
#14
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 06:17 PM
I tried to warn u about cheep parts.
#15
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 06:34 PM
What brand were the tie rod ends?
What is a good brand?
What is a good brand?
#16
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:11 PM
The problem is they are left and right hand threads. Toranas use right hand thread on both sides. HQ - WB uses two L/H and two R/H tie rod ends in their front ends.OK I have been working on the tie rods today. After I did the passenger side I realised that the boxes had different codes. The codes are the same except for one ends in "L" and one in"R". I didnt realise but I have put the "R" on the passenger side. I went to put the drivers side on before I realised all of that and it wont thread on. Should it still thread on or do right and left have different sized threads? I wouldnt imagine they would but you never know. Or have I just been given one that is the wrong product. Help I am stuck, please help! Codes on the boxes are: PTE195L & PTE195R
Cheers
#17
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:14 PM
^ im not going to ask why.
#18
surfmaster
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:22 PM
Because Torana owners can tell the difference?^ im not going to ask why.
#19
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:32 PM
Because the HQ - WB's have the adjusting rod between two tie rod ends. One end of the rod is L/H thread, the other end is R/H thread. This way, you turn the rod and it lenghtens or shortens. There is one pair on each side of the car. And a track rod in the middle, connecting two of these tie rod ends, the idler arm and steering box.
Hope this confuses everybody.
Hope this confuses everybody.
#20
_Brewster_
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:34 PM
Sweet, thanks ls2lxhatch, I've ordered my set, you beauty! 
#21
surfmaster
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:45 PM
Two very different steering systems.Because the HQ - WB's have the adjusting rod between two tie rod ends. One end of the rod is L/H thread, the other end is R/H thread. This way, you turn the rod and it lenghtens or shortens. There is one pair on each side of the car. And a track rod in the middle, connecting two of these tie rod ends, the idler arm and steering box.
Hope this confuses everybody.
#22
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:51 PM
It's the way GMH have done things since the FX. With all those moving parts, is it any wonder they have so much steering play?
#23
surfmaster
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:54 PM
And why they cost so much at rego time to replace those fiddly bits like idler arms, ball joints and tie rod ends.
#24
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:58 PM
done start me on idler arms and cheap imports
#25
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Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:59 PM
The problem with idler arms is it isn't unusual for a new idler arm to have more play than an old one. Happened to me with my EH. Actually, lets not go there. Otherwise we might start talking about king pins.
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