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bleeding hydrolic clutch


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#1 _Bruce Burnout_

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 09:34 PM

I`m in the process of putting my Torana back to gether for a big day no the weekend one of many changes i made was to replace my mechanical clutch with a hydrolic one (Kit from Castlemaine Rod shop).
Have ererything fitted in but I am haveing a hell of a time bleeding it, Im not real shore on how to do it .
Bled master cylinder first and then the slave cylinder through the bleed nipple, had my son push peddle in with nipple open (with clear tube on nipple so you can see fluid) and i would nip it up and have him let his foot off the peddle.
Repeat until good flow with no bubbles but good flow was not achieved HELP?

#2 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 09:43 PM

HI there
I hade the same probs with a LH thay are crap.IS WOULD,NT BLEED UP
I throw my in the bin and built a proper one useing parts from the wreckers :cry:

#3 FastEHHolden

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 11:03 PM

take the slave cylinder off the gearbox...use a g clamp over the end of the slave to stop the piston popping out....hold it above the level of the master cylinder and pump...you can either try the nip and pump method or put the clear tube in a jar of brake fluid and do continuous pumps until it runs free of air.

#4 _WYLDLC 6_

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Posted 15 February 2006 - 02:58 PM

Be careful with the CRS stuff as I did a hydraulic conversion myself and had the same problem. Found that my new cylinder was no good, Rare spares didn't want to know about it and ended up having to re-sleeve it and put new rubbers in.
Then suprise it worked. Maybe it might be an idea to get it pressure tested.

Cheers Chris.

#5 _gtrtorana_

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Posted 15 February 2006 - 05:33 PM

Had the same problem. This is how I overcome it. Fitted master, slave and hose to car and tightened hose to correct spot. Then removed master and slave as a complete unit and placed slave in vice. Bled system on bench with a couple of screw drivers and once completed, refitted to car being carfull that slave piston did not come out while installing master. System works great now. I think it was because when car was on ramps, the end of master cylinder was higher than compensating port and this kept an air pocket in the master. Hope this helps you out.

#6 _Bruce Burnout_

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Posted 18 February 2006 - 10:32 PM

Thannks for the replys.
Fast EH this got it going thank you,had a bit of trouble getting it back down between the fire wall and the bell housing had to detatch from master cylinder to get it in, and pump from the slave cylinder back up to the connection on the end of master cylender and then pump air out at same connection from master cylender.
Wyldc 6 no leaks yet but i will keep eye on it. I bought some stuff from rare spares and the quality was shit (rear bobtail) they didn`t want to know about it either, got my clutch kit through Repco, will not buy from Rare spares again unless absolutely neccessary.
Dave get it out of bin.
GTR TORANA pumping from the slave I had not thought of until you mentioned you used a couple of screw drivers to pump with.
clutch is working fine so thank you all for your suggestions

#7 rodomo

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Posted 18 February 2006 - 11:48 PM

Does the line from the master cyl rise higher than the master cyl on this mod?
RACV MAN

#8 _Bruce Burnout_

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 09:22 AM

RACV MAN - Yes the master cylinder sits on an angel of about 45 degress like the ones pictured under "Driveline, hydraulic clutch setup in an LX".

#9 rodomo

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 10:19 AM

Just looked at the pic and can see the problem. The front of the master would always have an air pocket. Best way I would recken to bleed it would be to take the master off the fire wall and hold it level and higher than all other hydraulic components (leave every thing else assembled) and bleed it as normal by hand. Then bolt it back up.

RACV MAN




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