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replacing camshaft


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#1 _lx-304_

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 04:33 PM

hi guys i was wondering if someone could put a step by step guide on changing the cam and lifters.i know the basics of lining dots and seting the timing,but will need a where to start giude from the begining to bolting back on the timing cover.i dont think it will be too hard,but it is always handy to have some info.plus it will stop me from having to ask half way through the job.thanks



dave

#2 _ass308_

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 04:45 PM

ive neva done it but would be keen to know to

#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 05:42 PM

In a inline 6cyl or a V8, roller, hyd or solid?

#4 _lx-304_

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 05:58 PM

its for a holden vr 5litre

#5 TerrA LX

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 06:48 PM

Fitting a cam to a Holden V8
Things You�ll Need:
� New camshaft
� New lifters
� Distributor gasket
� Water pump gasket
� Valve cover gaskets
� Timing cover gasket
� Intake manifold gasket
� Pry bar (a/k/a Big Bertha)
� Harmonic Balancer Puller
� Socket set
� Flathead screwdriver
� Phillips screwdriver
� Torque wrench
� Carb cleaner
� Rags
� Oil
� Oil filter
� Coolant/Inhibitor
� Cam lube
Difficulty: Challenging.
Step1
Provide a clean work area to set parts down and prepare to label rockers and pushrods so to return them from where they came, I usually use a foam fruit box so parts can be held in place.
Open the pack of lifters and soak them in some regular motor oil. Make sure all the lifters are covered in oil.
Disconnect the battery.
Drain the coolant and the oil into a container proper for disposal. You will need to dispose of the oil and filter Also, before you start, you will need to make sure your engine is at top dead centre firing on number one.
Step2
Remove the radiator, radiator hoses, any electric fans, if you have them installed and the front grill. If you have a transmission cooler, remove that at this time, taking car to place a drip pan under the cooler lines. If you do not have a separate trans cooler, be sure to have a drip pan under the cooler lines that run into the radiator.
Step3
Remove the manual fan, and the alternator. Unbolt the mounting bolts for the power steering pump and lay it to the side. If you do not have enough room to lay it out of the way, you may have to take the hoses off. If so, be sure to have a catch bucket to catch any power steering fluid that will leak.
Step4
Unbolt the air compressor and lay that out of the way. If your air compressor is below the heads, it should not be in your way, and you do not have to unbolt it. Try to leave the lines intact, as you will have to vacuum the system down and replace the freon and the dryer or accumulator if you take the lines off.
Step5
Remove the valve covers. Take the old gasket off and clean the gasket rail. Inspect them carefully to be sure there are no dents or that the gasket rail is not warped. This is particularly important if you have chrome valve covers.
Step6
Remove the water pump.
Step7
Unhook the throttle linkage the fuel lines and vacuum lines. You may want to lay some rags on top of the intake to catch any fuel that leaks out when you remove the fuel lines.
Step8
Remove the distributor. It should be pointing at the Number One cylinder plug lead if you properly set your engine at top dead centre.
Step9
Remove the intake manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket.
Remove any bits of gasket that are sticking to the block or to the intake manifold.
Step10
Remove the rockers and pushrods. Position or label these to return them to their original location. Throw the old lifters away.
Step11
Remove the harmonic balancer.
Step12
Remove the timing cover. Be sure the timing marks on the crankshaft are lined up.
Remove the timing chain. Remove the cam timing gear. Remove the cam retainer. Gently remove the camshaft from the front of the engine.
Step13
Coat the new camshaft with the cam lube. Install the cam as to the specs for your application. (You can install cams "straight up" or x degrees before or after top dead centre).
Reinstall all parts as you removed them and re-fill and top off all fluids.
Step14
Follow the instructions on breaking in the camshaft. Most cars require 2,000rpm for 20 minutes.
Please refer to manufactures specifications for torque settings.

#6 _lx-304_

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 07:21 PM

thats fantastic,a few more questions.
1-do i have to drop the oil and filter as i have just put new stuff in and on
2-when you say x degrres before tdc,i was told today to put cam in i tooth out ,which would be about 4 degrees and move the power band down lower i think .does this sound right and would that be clock wise or anti clockwise looking at the front of the motor.
3-because the motor in the car and the dizzy is almost not accessable,i was told today that i could remove the dizzy cap and put a piece of tape across it to secure from twisting,then when the timing cover is off put a white pen mark where the dot is and install the new one in the same place(or 1 tooth out) making sure the dizzy doesnt move.this seams to be the ame as putting 1 on tdc.does this sound right.

dave

#7 TerrA LX

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 07:53 PM

Cam timing and ignition timing is independant of each other.
IMO if you have a stock motor and stock/average valve springs just get the correct cam to suite your motor the first time and do not stuff around with moving it one tooth out, you could be asking for trouble if you have never done it before, one tooth seems alot.

Edited by ALX76, 11 November 2008 - 07:54 PM.


#8 TerrA LX

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 08:08 PM

Special note;
When tightening the rocker bridges ensure that both valves are closed on that set, if you try to tightn them to spec with one valve on the lift you will crack the rocker bridge.

#9 enderwigginau

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 10:14 PM

Now does someone want to do this and take pics?

Grant..

#10 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 November 2008 - 10:07 AM

thats fantastic,a few more questions.
1-do i have to drop the oil and filter as i have just put new stuff in and on
2-when you say x degrres before tdc,i was told today to put cam in i tooth out ,which would be about 4 degrees and move the power band down lower i think .does this sound right and would that be clock wise or anti clockwise looking at the front of the motor.
3-because the motor in the car and the dizzy is almost not accessable,i was told today that i could remove the dizzy cap and put a piece of tape across it to secure from twisting,then when the timing cover is off put a white pen mark where the dot is and install the new one in the same place(or 1 tooth out) making sure the dizzy doesnt move.this seams to be the ame as putting 1 on tdc.does this sound right.

dave

1- ideally drop the oil, the way that the timing cover seal works you really need to drop the sump a little and it can get messy. I guess its possible not to do so though
2- don't advance or retard the cam by teeth, use a multi-keyway timing set and degree wheel
3- you'll end up moving the dizzy when you remove and reinstall the cam so don't bother, just lift the dizzy (clear of the cam gear at least) and reinstall it properly when done




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