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Adjustable trailing arms


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#1 StephenSLR

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 09:11 AM

I was recommended to install adjustable upper trailing arms as my diff yolk points south of horizontal.

McDonald Brothers Racing have them ~ $300

I remember reading on the old forum years back of some good GM (imported from USA) ones that can suit, I'm not sure if they needed some mods.

TSS (Tubular Suspension Systems) make spherical bearing arms, I can't remember if they were adjustable - their site is under construction atm.

A friend says he's been in a car with the spherical bearing trailing arms and noticed they make a hell of a lot of noise.

What are your experiences/recommendations?

s

#2 _rorym_

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 10:34 AM

I thought the yoke was supposed to be south of horizontal?..by up to -4 degrees??
R

#3 _AGGRO_

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 10:47 AM

correct! do a search in the suspension section for a thread titled adjustable rear arms, all the info is in there.

I have the mcdonald bros ones in mine to twist the pinion angle down as it was too horizontal.

Edited by AGGRO, 19 November 2008 - 10:49 AM.


#4 StephenSLR

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 11:21 AM

I have the mcdonald bros ones in mine to twist the pinion angle down as it was too horizontal.


I will have to check it on a level surface sometime. I just had my diff serviced, the mechanic told me there seemed to be a bit of vibration and I guess he assumed it was the pinion angle.

He said my gearbox (Supra) was higher than the diff so maybe he thought the diff is too low? Of course he could be wrong.

Maybe this topic needs to be moved to 'suspension & steering'.

s

#5 A9X

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Posted 19 November 2008 - 10:16 PM

read this,

http://www.gmh-toran.......220&hl=arms

and when you get to it, there are some adjustable arms there for sale.

Welby

#6 TerrA LX

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 12:48 AM

Pinion angle is the difference between the tailshaft angle and the pinion angle on the differential.

In your case stephen you first need to ensure the "entry" and "exit" angles are equal on the tailshaft, then measure the pinion angle.

#7 StephenSLR

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 09:19 AM

In your case stephen you first need to ensure the "entry" and "exit" angles are equal on the tailshaft, then measure the pinion angle.


Is the exit angle the pinion angle? If not please explain.

Who can I take my car to to measure these things?

when you get to it, there are some adjustable arms there for sale.


Thanks Welby, I just want to make sure the arms are the issue.

Didn't you say those arms were what was causing your vibration?

s

#8 A9X

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 12:31 PM

No, i said we removed them as part of our chase to find the vibration.

As part of that chase, i didn't find any difference in handling with putting the factory ones back in, so they stayed in.

We ended up raising the gearbox at the rear mount to fix the issue.

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#9 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 03:38 PM

Is the exit angle the pinion angle? If not please explain.

Who can I take my car to to measure these things?


Best way to measure the CORRECT angle is to get a stock Torana at stock ride height and measure the angles of the diff pinion and transmission output shaft.

Trying to find a Torana in the above condition would be tricky.

#10 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 04:12 PM

This article explains the problem
http://www.streetrod...gles/index.html

The McDonald Bros upper adjustable trailing arms will not fit a standard Torana banjo housing or a 9" that has used the upper mounts from a Torana housing. The Whiteline upper adjustable trailing arms will fit with a standard Torana upper mount. If your 9" was built using HQ trailing arms as the upper mounts (This is a common method) then the McDonald Bros arms will fit.

McDonald Bros
Posted Image

McDonald Bros
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Whiteline
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Posted Image

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 20 November 2008 - 04:20 PM.


#11 TerrA LX

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Posted 21 November 2008 - 11:56 AM

Is the exit angle the pinion angle? If not please explain.

Who can I take my car to to measure these things?



If you were to put the rear of the car on ramps and then jack the front up and support with stands till the car was level you could then get under the car with some coat hanger wire and check the angles for yourself, at this time the numerical value of the angles is not important, you are just checking if everything is satisfactory at this stage, so bend your wire to suite the "entry" angle, the angle of the gearbox plane and the front of the tailshaft, then compare this angle to the "exit" angle, the angle of the tailshaft to the centreline of the yoke/diff.
These angles, regardless of their value, should be equal.
Now, the included angle of both the tailshaft, and the degree of which the diff is pointing, wether up or down etc, is your pinion angle.

#12 StephenSLR

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Posted 21 November 2008 - 02:43 PM

I have a Supra 5 speed g'box and Borg Warner LSD.

The BW was built and fits the original Torana trailing arms so I assume they would have made the mounts the same as banjo diff, would this be the case?

I am just going off what the diff guy said recently - that the yolk/pinion looked like it was pointing down too low.

These angles, regardless of their value, should be equal.


Is the idea to have the pinion angle = 0 degrees under load?

Does anyone know a professional in Sydney that can measure the angles, I'm short of time and don't have ramps/stands.

If I do need to change the angle will those Edelbrock arms fit my set up?

s

#13 TerrA LX

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Posted 21 November 2008 - 05:55 PM

Is the idea to have the pinion angle = 0 degrees under load?

Pretty much yes, can't help with the rest sorry, maybe try the yellow pages.

IMO, I would be more worried about the entry/exit angles being the same that the pinion angle if your getting vibration.

#14 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 01:02 AM

Pretty much yes, can't help with the rest sorry, maybe try the yellow pages.

IMO, I would be more worried about the entry/exit angles being the same that the pinion angle if your getting vibration.


Ive just got myself a set of top adjustable arms to try a fix my issue. Looking at my setup it seems that the gearbox and diff are too straight. Diff is horizontal and also seems like the gearbox to tailshaft is 0 degress. We have changed wheels , check axles, new tailshaft (old one was a banana) and there still seems to be a vibration . its only 10% of what it use to be since getting the tailshaft but its still there. Mainly aoround the 90 to 110kph it tend to feather out above and below those speeds . Thoughts? Can a setup be too straight? I read somewhere that the uni's are meant to work at slight angles as mentioned before and the front and rear angle cancel themselves out like you mentioned Terry

#15 76lxhatch

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 07:55 AM

Yes I have same problem and have come to the conclusion that the gearbox needs to go up, but that's easier said than done. For the moment keeping to tall diff ratios makes a big difference.

#16 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 13 June 2009 - 04:14 PM

Well finally got around to installing my top M Bros arms and measuring some angles.

Diff was pointing up 2 deg , and only measuring via the transmission pan it seems to be pointing up 1.5 deg. Using a magnet deg wheel

Unfortunately we have ran out of time to play more with adjustments but here is what we got so far.

Trans in same spot
Diff now pointing down 2 deg

Terry , i forgot the coathanger wire angle test today so ill have to try that another day .

Took it for a drive and it has taken alot of the harshness out of the vibration but its still there and definately enough to be annoying.

My problem is now should i install torana engine mounts instead of the hq ones i have raising the engine and hopefully removing the angle of the gearbox which may then give me or be close entry / exit angles? or should i just try apply more downward angle to the diff to try and match the front?

#17 76lxhatch

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Posted 13 June 2009 - 10:03 PM

If you go Torana engine mounts that will raise the engine and thus point the trans down, which is the wrong way, isn't it? Trans points up, diff points down on same angle.

I'm no expert but I would imagine that you may want to try 3 or possibly even 4 degrees (depending on how stiff the suspension bushes are), assuming of course you can get the same angle at the trans and diff.

#18 wot179

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Posted 13 June 2009 - 10:23 PM

As far as I know,the engine should sit level in the car.That makes the centerline of the gearbox level with the ground.
Opinions vary,but pinion angle should be between 1 and 4 degrees.
To achieve this,put your car on 4 jackstands,with the rear ones under the diff.
Level up your car,from side to side and front to rear.
Across the rails in the front and rear are good places to sit your level,and along the sills under your scratch plates is good for front to rear.
Drop your taishaft and sit your magnetic protractor(cheap) or electronic angle finder(not so cheap)vertically across the pinion on the diff.
That is your pinion angle.
When setting up a gearbox crossmember,level up your engine front to rear and measure for your new crossmember.
Just jacking it up till it hits the floor and dropping it down a bit is not the way to go.

This is the way I have been taught and the way I have always done it.
Ive never had a problem.

http://roofgenius.com/roofangle.htm

#19 _rorym_

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Posted 13 June 2009 - 11:53 PM

You need 4 degrees Digger....Reset it and have another go. I run HQs with the diff 4 degs down from my diff guy..
R
http://www.gmh-toran...p;hl=diff angle

Edited by rorym, 13 June 2009 - 11:56 PM.


#20 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 13 June 2009 - 11:57 PM

Basically why i mentioned the engine mounts because i thought the gearbox should be straight rather than pointing slightly up. I realise what your saying 76LX but you can still have the angle at the front if the gearbox sits level because the diff is slightly lower.

Thanks for the replies

#21 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 13 June 2009 - 11:59 PM

You need 4 degrees Digger....Reset it and have another go. I run HQs with the diff 4 degs down from my diff guy..
R
http://www.gmh-toran...p;hl=diff angle


Thanks Rory, i think i still have some more adjustment in it, and your gearbox is level??

#22 76lxhatch

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 08:02 AM

Basically why i mentioned the engine mounts because i thought the gearbox should be straight rather than pointing slightly up. I realise what your saying 76LX but you can still have the angle at the front if the gearbox sits level because the diff is slightly lower.

You must have a lot more room in the tunnel to move the gearbox up than I do, good luck and very keen to hear whether you can dial out the vibration completely

#23 _rorym_

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Posted 14 June 2009 - 08:06 AM

Thanks Rory, i think i still have some more adjustment in it, and your gearbox is level??


Basically..but if you have the right crossmember that end should be OK..its the nose of the diff that needs to be down.
R

#24 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 08:49 PM

You need 4 degrees Digger....Reset it and have another go. I run HQs with the diff 4 degs down from my diff guy..


The most we could get out of it was 3 deg before the arms could not be adjusted anymore, and the vibration is less again, It looks like now i need to modify them slightly by cutting a little of the arms to get the extra 1 deg, will keep you posted.

#25 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 11:17 PM

You could try putting some weight in the back of the car, the diff will point down as the car gets lower. If the vibration disappears then you can modify the arms to achieve the same angle at normal ride height. Raising the gearbox will also have the same effect as pointing the diff down.

This article explains what you are trying to achieve and how to measure the angles.




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