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Help Pleass-Front wheels hitting flares (pic)

Started by _redrana_ , Mar 04 2006 06:19 PM

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15 replies to this topic

#1 _redrana_

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 06:19 PM

Hi, this is my first post here but I've read a lot of the info - its a brilliant resource that has been a heap of help to me so far thanks!

I'm restoring a SLRand I'm into the installation stage after rebuilding the driveline, bare metal panel and paint etc etc.

Anyway I've spent this afternoon staring at my front end trying to work out why the front wheels now hit the base of the front flares at the bottom and then the inside rear of the wheel arch/firewall? Some ideas what I've done wrong and how to fix it would would be great.

The situation is:
- Car originally had a modified LH front end and didn't scrape. I replaced it with reconditioned standard UC front end (car runs a 308) and now have the problem.
- uc Front end has had new bushes throughout, lovell sport low springs and has 276mm disks I think.
- wheels are 14x8 tridents and 245 50 14 eagers and HQ pattern.
- Front end looks to have been reassembled properly and is seated correctly in pace.

I'm not sure what the stub axles are off but I'm guessing they are HQ. Hopefully they will show in a picture below. They have 2964 and GM NF? on them. Can anyone tell me if they are HQ or whatever they are and could they be part of the scraping problem?

THANKS

Posted Image

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#2 GML-31

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Name:Kev
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Posted 04 March 2006 - 07:03 PM

are they the same wheels and tyres... sometimes when the flares are fitted and car is lowered they can hit at bottom, if all the frontend seems ok you may have to refit the flares by stretching them out a little and redrilling the holes.

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#3 _redrana_

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 07:19 PM

Ok thanks for that!

I've got two sets of wheels and have tried the ones that were on the car with the old front end and flares and they hit now as well. The strange thing is that its not just the flares the wheels are hitting now its also the back of the wheelarch - that steel ridge that runs down vertically. So I was thinking that the only item I dont know what its off are the stub axles. Perhaps they are ones that worked ok in the modified LH front end but doesnt suit the UC setup so I'm keen to find out what they're off

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#4 GML-31

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 07:39 PM

if you have 15" wheels normally you have to fold that edge over anyhow.

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#5 _Viper_

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 08:32 PM

If they are HQ stubs then i beleive they push out your tyres an extra 10mm which could/would explain the new problem...

-Clint

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#6 _The Baron_

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 09:04 PM

UC arms also sets the top ball joint backward vs LH.

My original front flares were cut at the back/inside to allow for 8" mags when I got the car.

The body seam inside the back of the wheel well has been hammered back flat big time. (as per all A9X's).

Good luck with the cutting and hammering!

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#7 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 09:16 PM

Rear seam has to be hammered flush, the bottom inside guard/return on the front flare has to be cut back to give min. 5mm clearance. Start cutting from the inside, i.e. toward the engine side. Put a wheel on, and you'll get a pretty clear indication of where you need to cut.

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#8 _Jewboy_

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Posted 04 March 2006 - 09:35 PM

Here's whats been done on mine(not by me)
Posted Image

Back seam on the foot well has been bashed for clearance too

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#9 _redrana_

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Posted 05 March 2006 - 06:05 AM

Ok thanks everyone for the help on this. Looks like there are further modifications required to sort it out.

Heres a shot of the stub axle from the inside if it helps anyone confirm they are HQ ones

Thanks.

Posted Image

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#10 Dangerous

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Posted 06 March 2006 - 10:57 AM

That's an HQ stub axle. With your scraping issue, welcome to the "I want to fit large wheels to my LH/LX Club" :cry:

Even fairly small changes in camber can affect how much tyre rubbing goes on.

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#11 _torana_

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Posted 06 March 2006 - 03:58 PM

check my topic here about fitting hq stubs, and the troubles i come across.

http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=1012

Might help you out, especially once you get to steering arms.
cheers julian

Edited by torana, 06 March 2006 - 03:58 PM.

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#12 _K.F.M._

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Posted 06 March 2006 - 06:59 PM

K.F.M.
Which way do mammer the rear seam , in towards motor or out & back around (180 degrees). A picture would save a thousand words.

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#13 _redrana_

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Posted 06 March 2006 - 07:53 PM

Thanks Dangerous and Torana. Its good to know that the stubs are HQ ones but a bit disapointing I hadn't worked out that the UC combo with those stubs would create the tyre rub problem before I replaced the front end :rolleyes:

Sounds like I can sort it with a bit of hammering and flare mods (I already had to fill and refit the rear flares after being sold the A9X style ones instead of the L34 ones!).

Just a thought, if the HQ stubs do push the wheel out 10mm or so is it possible to get some more clearance by using a different hubs/disks that are not as tall (if there is such a thing)?

I'm replacing my hubs with DBA 4000 series ones that I've got on order at the moment. Didn't take much notice of how tall they were when ordering them though - I think thats the measurement called 'hat height'? Anyway, I'll put them on to see if they make any difference before getting the hammer onto the steel to create more clearance.

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#14 _K.F.M._

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Posted 07 March 2006 - 02:49 PM

K.F.M.
If you use the Hoppers Stoppers conversion everything comes out correct , track kingpin inclination angle(torana stubs) 290mm discs ,no hassles & a engineers report .They are a treat to use.

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#15 _HB1200_

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 09:17 PM

I was told that only conversion kits that used modified LC drum brake stub axles gave the correct angles etc.

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#16 Toranamat69

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 11:26 PM

HB1200,

I have heard that many times over the years and am pretty sure It was started by Rod Hadfield as he was making those kits.
Until harrop started making the A9X steering arms again, that statement was relatively true unless you could find a second hand set of A9X steering arms which you probably wont.
The combo being used by people as the alternative at the time was the HQ-HZ stubs and either the std LX torana or HQ steering arms which will give you lots of bumpsteer and CRS were probably right to warn people away from doing this.

A few years back, along came hoppers and changed all that again with his kits using all the original Torana disc stub and steering arms and bigger better brakes anyway.

Your comment above is not true anymore, infact all you have achieved using the LC drum stubs and (I assume) the LH steering arms is to keep your original geometry the LH torana came with but 10 years ago that was the go.

M@