Hi every 1 my hatch is due to get painted in the next couple of weeks, fitted the flairs and spoiler today. one side fits well lines up perfectly with the spoiler etc the other side seems to be a fair bit of pressure pulling on the front of the flare where it bolts to the spoiler and guard. this flare seems to have a bit of a twist in it. am just concerned when we fit the kit after it is painted the bolts may crack and chip the paint and fibreglass around the bolt holes. is this inevitable or is there something i can do to fix this? thanks for your help.
fitting flares
Started by
_mra9x_
, Mar 09 2006 07:05 PM
10 replies to this topic
#2
REDA9X
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Posted 09 March 2006 - 09:37 PM
my kit has been fitted to my car for near on 30 years and it's never fitted great, pulls very tight and always cracks around the flare bolts as all of them do
#3
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 07:10 AM
^ same, although 30+ years. Cracking paint seems to be the norm, specially round the bolt holes. You could try get the washers that are only fitted standard to the L34, but I think the washers merely hide the cracks rather than prevent them.
Once you have em fitted, you'll also be battling the other cancer, gravel rash on the front of the rear flares.
Once you have em fitted, you'll also be battling the other cancer, gravel rash on the front of the rear flares.
#4
GML-31
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 07:53 AM
The best way is if you can get hold of a local guy making them, get them fresh out of the mould when they are green still, within the first 24 hours and fit them staight away and leave them on for a week or so in the sun so they actually harden correctly with the shape of your car.
#5
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 08:53 AM
That makes alot of sense. Even if it wasn't a week old, fitting for a week to the car prior to removing and painting could also help reduce cracking.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 10 March 2006 - 08:55 AM.
#6
GML-31
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 09:37 AM
another trick we used to use was a heat gun on low and warm them up to remould them.
Edited by GML-31, 10 March 2006 - 09:37 AM.
#7
_mra9x_
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 01:18 PM
some good ideas gml31 unfortunately i have had the kit for some time sitting around. i will suggest the heat gun method to the panel beater and see what he thinks thanks guys for your ideas 
#8
Peter UC
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 03:55 PM
The problem with fibreglass with polyester resin is the flare will always continuosly move and that movement on the flare is the flare trying to make itself a O instead of a C. Epoxy resins don't move put there melting temp isn't that high, so they will go soft in reeally hot weather.
Talking with Dad who used to work with McArthur in the early 80s so knows a bit about the Torana flares. He's of the opinion that is you triangulate the flares even only a little bit (there is not a lot of room I know) it should help enormously. Oboviously they would have to be straight first.
Talking with Dad who used to work with McArthur in the early 80s so knows a bit about the Torana flares. He's of the opinion that is you triangulate the flares even only a little bit (there is not a lot of room I know) it should help enormously. Oboviously they would have to be straight first.
#9
_mra9x_
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 03:58 PM
sorry if i sound stupid mate but what exactly does triangulate mean???
#10
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 10 March 2006 - 04:06 PM
Triangulate - turn it into a rigid shape. Only way I can see to triangulate would be to fit three bolts minimum per flare section, as a curve can also acts as a form of triangulation. Unless he means triangulate perpendicular to the body panels, not parallel.
Maybe ask him what he means, or how he reckons they could be triangulated.
Maybe ask him what he means, or how he reckons they could be triangulated.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 10 March 2006 - 04:07 PM.
#11
Peter UC
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Posted 11 March 2006 - 11:52 AM
Again like I say there is not a lot of room but instead of the V shape that the flare's cross section area has fibreglass a piece in to make a triangle. The only thing is that at the top of the flare there is not a lot of room but a little is better than nothing.
And yes on a sedan the rear flare does need three bolts per section. Maybe make a captive bolt at the top and bolt it through the inner guard to keep it looking right.
Anyway Good Luck.
And yes on a sedan the rear flare does need three bolts per section. Maybe make a captive bolt at the top and bolt it through the inner guard to keep it looking right.
Anyway Good Luck.
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