
excesive end float on new engine
#1
_uglybob_
Posted 13 February 2009 - 09:53 AM
the engine has hardly been driven and soem how it now has 75 thou end float, i only noticed it because i pulled out the engine to reseal the sump. upon doing so i noticed a funny scoring on the timing cover whcih happend to be the timing gear rubbing on it!
i am running a celica box with a crs bellhousing, has anyone knowen of these to have differnt length input shafts or something that could hav been loading up the crank constantly and also the clutch is extemely heavy but surely that would wear the thrust bearing so badly so quickly, no!?
any feedback would be greaqt guys want to get the car sorted while im not thinking about tortching the poor old girl.
cheers
ben
#2
Posted 13 February 2009 - 10:00 AM
My ex Mrs HQ when you pushed the clutch, the crank would move forward and the tips of the flywheel bolts, poking through the crank flange, would hit the back of the block.
#3
_gtrtorana_
Posted 13 February 2009 - 11:50 AM
I have also heared this. I also remember reading somewhere that you can mod your engine block so has a direct oil feel the thrust area rather than having it splash fed.Some 202 cranks were soft in the thrust area
#4
_uglybob_
Posted 19 February 2009 - 05:01 PM
the input shaft doesnt look like it has been rubbing and i havent even had a good look at the spigot bush, i guess i was just mainly wanting to know whether or not this is a common problem with 202's with heavy clutches? might have to look into that oiling onto thrust bearing.
so tired of pulling this dam motor apart but some have worse luck i spose.
anyone got anything extra to add with the thrust bearing oil modd??
cheers guys for your feedback
#5
_Squarepants_
Posted 19 February 2009 - 06:33 PM
If there is no excessive wear on the thrust main bearing the I'd be tempted to say your crank is the culprit.
I'm no expert but I can't see how the clutch makes any difference as it only provides radial loads, not longitudinal. Perhaps the bevel cut gears in the gearbox push the input shaft forward forward, I don't know. In which case you'd see the evidence on the spigot bush or on the end of the input shaft.
What about the cam gear? If you're still running bevel cut timing gears, could they be pushing the crank back if the cam bearings are a bit sticky? I'm just grasping at straws now, like I said, I'm no expert, I'm just trying to provide another veiwpoint on the issue.
#6
_NZ Toranaman_
Posted 19 February 2009 - 07:13 PM
You can get them rebuilt or just buy a new crank, but try and buy an auto crank as the wear is usually alot less.
#7
Posted 19 February 2009 - 11:58 PM
I'm no expert but I can't see how the clutch makes any difference as it only provides radial loads, not longitudinal.
The thrust bearing that operates the clutch pressure plate pushes the crank forward. Some people leave their car in neutral and their foot off the clutch at traffic lights to reduce wear.
#8
Posted 20 February 2009 - 12:12 AM
#9
_Squarepants_
Posted 20 February 2009 - 03:31 PM
#10
_uglybob_
Posted 20 February 2009 - 06:17 PM
im running straight cut timing gears so that cant be an issue, and the engine may have done 200km since the full rebuild so its not like it has had heaps of city driving but having said that i looked at the clutch and its fairly buggerd i obviously ride it too hard to get it up the drive way into the garage (its not a fun thing to do especially in the dark!) but i have a new clutch now any way and it ceramic so no way am i going to be doing that anymore. but i am leaning towards the clutch being the issue i just didnt think i should wear quite this fast but obviously it is so ill be looking into oiling the thrust bearing area as mentioned before.
thanks for the feed back ill put some photies up of the thrust bearing tomora
cheers
ben
#11
_2runa_
Posted 20 February 2009 - 08:12 PM
engine thrust bearing failure can be due to high clutch pressures, usually related to performance clutches with high spring pressures being installed. Riding
the clutch can also cause thrust bearing failure on new engines. You must also ensure the clutch has adequate free play. hope this helps
#12
_gtrtorana_
Posted 20 February 2009 - 08:13 PM
I am looking though all my paperwork now to try and find the info for you. I'm pretty sure I got it from this forum but it was about 3 years ago.anyone got anything extra to add with the thrust bearing oil modd??
#13
_2runa_
Posted 20 February 2009 - 08:37 PM
Edited by 2runa, 20 February 2009 - 08:39 PM.
#14
_SableMet7/73_
Posted 23 February 2009 - 12:03 PM
What about the cam gear? If you're still running bevel cut timing gears, could they be pushing the crank back if the cam bearings are a bit sticky?
Not being picky, but with bevel/helical cut gears the cam would more than
likely be pulled forward/back under load rather than the crank.
Hence the availability of cam end float bearings coz theres only the ring
behind the cam gear held in by 2 phillips screws & have seen some wear
on the back of these from the front camshaft bearing journal.
On the thrust flange, sorry not a solution, but bought a blue 3.3 cheap from
a bloke & got the sump off & crank out at home & the thrust flange was rooted
then noticed the auto flexplate had been fitted backwards. Dohhhhh!! new crank.
Cheers J
#15
_Drag lc_
Posted 23 February 2009 - 12:36 PM

i have had helicel cut cam gear walk off the cam before came off about 1/4" and engine coffed and spluttered to a hault untill i turned dizzy then went again.
#16
_uglybob_
Posted 23 February 2009 - 08:55 PM
#17
_NZ Toranaman_
Posted 24 February 2009 - 10:09 AM
Another thing to try and get is a standard grind so that way you only polish it instead of grinding oversize too much.
Graham
#18
_2runa_
Posted 24 February 2009 - 10:44 AM
Edited by 2runa, 24 February 2009 - 10:45 AM.
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