
headlights and wiring question
#1
_SLR Goat_
Posted 20 February 2009 - 06:44 PM
Also in the wiring diagram it says there is a fusable link between the the power connector of the starter motor and the fuse box purple/red wire i dont have one currently in it what size does it have to be?
cheers dennis
#2
Posted 20 February 2009 - 07:08 PM
I'm not sure what size the fuseible link should be. What gauge is the wire? It should be a good indication of what size fuse to use.
Edited by antelopeslr5000, 20 February 2009 - 07:12 PM.
#3
_SLR Goat_
Posted 20 February 2009 - 11:49 PM
I used wire the same guage as the original out of the engine bay harness and it was 50amp so i guess ill go off that
cheers dennis
#4
Posted 21 February 2009 - 07:54 AM
The headlights r sealed beam can u get ones with the H4 globes??
Yes, Rare Spares sells them. They don't say whether the head lamp has a provision for the parking lamp so it may pay to check that they do if you decide to purchase them.
#5
Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:24 AM
Go for Hella or Narva in that order.
Do not get increased wattage globes installed until after you install relays.
If you want more light then consider getting HID conversions. Lots more light and only 35W current draw.
Fusible link will probably be first bit of wire from starter motor to harness. Its usually more flexible than other wires of similar size.
Edited by Rockoz, 21 February 2009 - 11:26 AM.
#6
_SLR Goat_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 08:34 PM
Most car accessory stores should have Halogen Conversion Kits for your car.
Go for Hella or Narva in that order.
Do not get increased wattage globes installed until after you install relays.
If you want more light then consider getting HID conversions. Lots more light and only 35W current draw.
Fusible link will probably be first bit of wire from starter motor to harness. Its usually more flexible than other wires of similar size.
I saw those comversion kits today at autobarn for the fusable link would a inline fuse suffice? Also got another problem dont have power to coil wire when ignition is on only has power when cranking
#7
_keith1962_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 09:20 PM
I just supplied Blown308 with a set of H4 conversion kit which includes
globes for less than $90.00
cheers Keith
#8
_SS Hatchback_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 09:52 PM
I saw those comversion kits today at autobarn for the fusable link would a inline fuse suffice? Also got another problem dont have power to coil wire when ignition is on only has power when cranking
The lX usually has 2 supplies to the coil, 12v for starting then a resistered wire supplying 9v when the ignition is on? Seems to me like your missing the ignition wire connection which i believe was pink but someone may correct me.
However if you now run a 12v coil the the resistor wire can no longer be used so all i did was cut the resistored wire and remoived it then at the ignition switch soldered it to the one that supplies power when cranking( think that was yellow but i may be corrected ) that way either when ignition is on or while cranking the wire going to your coil will have power, hope this makes sense
#9
_SLR Goat_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:10 PM
The lX usually has 2 supplies to the coil, 12v for starting then a resistered wire supplying 9v when the ignition is on? Seems to me like your missing the ignition wire connection which i believe was pink but someone may correct me.
However if you now run a 12v coil the the resistor wire can no longer be used so all i did was cut the resistored wire and remoived it then at the ignition switch soldered it to the one that supplies power when cranking( think that was yellow but i may be corrected ) that way either when ignition is on or while cranking the wire going to your coil will have power, hope this makes sense
Cheers does help me out alot the yellow wire only has power when cranking the pink wire was a resistor for points ignition i think and has being cut out i run a MSD setup but that shouldnt affect it ive read someone else had the same prob will do some research
cheers dennis
#10
Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:57 PM
Wouldnt use a normal fuse holder, too many corrosion and hot joint issues.
Go to an auto elec they should have one, or just go to a wrecker and take the first 6 inches off the main feed from the starter.
#11
_SLR Goat_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:08 PM
Will need to get another wire to feed coil.
Wouldnt use a normal fuse holder, too many corrosion and hot joint issues.
Go to an auto elec they should have one, or just go to a wrecker and take the first 6 inches off the main feed from the starter.
Yep cheers just found a thread which has solved the problem should i just replace the whole pink wire with normal same guage or just reconnect the end that has being cut im thinking i should replace the whole wire
I have the msd/thermo/alt coming off the starter(battery in the boot)should the fusable link go before all these or just on the main red power wire to the fusebox
cheers dennis
#12
_SS Hatchback_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:22 PM
Yep cheers just found a thread which has solved the problem should i just replace the whole pink wire with normal same guage or just reconnect the end that has being cut im thinking i should replace the whole wire
I have the msd/thermo/alt coming off the starter(battery in the boot)should the fusable link go before all these or just on the main red power wire to the fusebox
cheers dennis
Where your pink wire has been cut from the ignition switch plug you will need to join that to the yellow basically so that the old pink and yellow coming from the switch are one cable so to speak, also the msd and thermos will need to be fused in some way or another.
#13
Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:28 PM
Run the main battery cable direct to the starter.
Run the alternator output directly to the starter.
You need a fusible link from the starter to supply everything else

Hope this helps
#14
_SLR Goat_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:34 PM
Im assuming that the power to the existing fuse box comes from the starter.
Run the main battery cable direct to the starter.
Run the alternator output directly to the starter.
You need a fusible link from the starter to supply everything else
Hope this helps
Cheers SSHatcchback and Rockoz im 100% positive now on what i need to do now fix the coil wire fuse the msd thermo relay has a built in fuse and install the fusable link awsomeness
cheers dennis
#15
Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:40 PM
#16
_SLR Goat_
Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:55 PM
need replace pink wire and join it with yellow wire and connect to red wire of msd so i have coil power with ignition on and cranking only orange and black wires on coil withmsd my last post said fuse the msd but i just read in the manual u should not fuse itCoil wire just needs to come off ignition switch to coil without being fused.
cheers dennis
#17
_trna76hb_
Posted 22 February 2009 - 11:47 AM
Major work to get the lights to fit
ian
#18
_SLR Goat_
Posted 23 February 2009 - 06:18 PM
If i connect the yellow wire from the pink and yellow wires which have power with ignition on to the single yellow wire which has power when cranking i get power at the coil/msd wire with ignition and cranking is that the way its supposed to be the small pink resistor wire has being cut out and i cant tell where it was connected to
i really hate electrics lol
cheers dennis
Attached Files
#19
_SS Hatchback_
Posted 23 February 2009 - 07:40 PM

It sounds right , basically the resistor wire (pink) gets cut out 2 inches from the plug at the back of the ignition , strip a small amount of insulation from the yellow cable where you can join the pink to the yellow and solder it. Then the yellow should head out to your ignition, It sounds like you have it right just put a test light on the coil after your done and it should have power when ignition is on and while cranking like you said
By the way , nice drawing

#20
_SLR Goat_
Posted 23 February 2009 - 08:13 PM
you may start doing what your avatar is doing to your keyboard
It sounds right , basically the resistor wire (pink) gets cut out 2 inches from the plug at the back of the ignition , strip a small amount of insulation from the yellow cable where you can join the pink to the yellow and solder it. Then the yellow should head out to your ignition, It sounds like you have it right just put a test light on the coil after your done and it should have power when ignition is on and while cranking like you said
By the way , nice drawing
cheers for the help i dropped the steering column down today had a play and have it sussed out good now
cheers again dennis
If u like that drawing heres one i drew for of my carby setup for a mate

Attached Files
Edited by SLR Goat, 23 February 2009 - 08:16 PM.
#21
_SS Hatchback_
Posted 23 February 2009 - 08:28 PM
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