
Commonly accepted method of assembling a door
#1
Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:35 PM
Do you leave the dust covers on the latch mechanism when you take it off and clean it? Or do you stretch it back over after washing all the dirt out?
Obviously when you access anything behind the doorframe, it is necessary to remove the 'water deflectors' (that's what they are called in the workshop manual haha). What is their actual purpose? I'd never even thought of putting them back in, does anyone from here do that? Is there a benefit from it? I don't want my door trims getting soggy if they will prevent that, but I'd never thought about it. Do they help with sound insulation? What material do you use to replace them? What adhesive product do you use?
When re-installing the window winders (and door levers in 'S' models), do you use the spring and plastic washer? I always thought that it made it really hard to remove the circlip, but having just assembled my doors again, I've noticed that the winder doesn't actually sit properly and obviously it makes the car feel lacking in quality. I imagine that the spring and plastic washer setup would rectify that problem. It's been so long since I worked on a car that actually had them installed (lmao) that I can't remember how bad it is to remove the winder with them in place. Any comments?
#2
Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:39 PM
#3
Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:44 PM
#4
Posted 07 April 2009 - 08:13 PM

Col, that wouldn't happen with my trim but I can imagine it could happen with some. Cheers!
#5
Posted 07 April 2009 - 09:05 PM
#6
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:14 PM
The plastic sheet over the door holes is important.
If the drain holes block up it stops water running in to the cab.
When driving there is considerable air movement inside the door.
Any residual moisture, even if the door drains are unblocked, swirls around and will make it inside the cab.
One thing I have found over the years is that Mr Holden didnt put anything in the cars that wasnt necessary, unless of course he could charge you extra for having it.
#7
_LH SLR 3300_
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:24 PM
#8
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:33 PM
I've never had an issue with removing and re-installing the dust covers over the latch mechanisms, you just need to take your time

I will need to make the 'water deflectors' from scratch lol. Advice for what material I should use? A thin plastic sheet good? How should I glue it in place?
#9
_LH SLR 3300_
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:44 PM
#10
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:53 PM
having an already molestered torana, meant most of the stuff in my car had already been liberated! At least once i start working on the SS, ill see what all this wonderful stuff is.
#11
Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:07 PM

#12
Posted 08 April 2009 - 08:30 AM
You know the three holes in the door frame? One circle and two more squarely shaped slots, that you put your hands into when you adjust/install/remove your locking mechanisms? There are supposed to be sheets of papery vinyl stuff over them from the factory, called Water Deflectors.
lol Rob!
Thanks for that advice LH SLR 3300
#13
Posted 08 April 2009 - 08:51 AM
We re-installed them on Maddy's UC, just got some material, and used contact adhesive to stick them on. I personally wouldn't bother, The amount of times i have had to have my door trim off to fix a dodgy lock, handle, window, or winder etc etc is crazy!
The only thing i can think it might also improve, is maybe help with road noise as it's a tiny bit of insulation that my help stop echoing vibrations.
#14
_Squarepants_
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:38 PM
Ahhh, I know what your on about! LOL. I thought there was something else in the door that i didnt know about! LOL
We re-installed them on Maddy's UC, just got some material, and used contact adhesive to stick them on. I personally wouldn't bother, The amount of times i have had to have my door trim off to fix a dodgy lock, handle, window, or winder etc etc is crazy!
The only thing i can think it might also improve, is maybe help with road noise as it's a tiny bit of insulation that my help stop echoing vibrations.
If you use the Butyl mastic (windscreen saelant) it doesn't go hard and you can pull them off and stick them back on without any new glue/resealing. Though, it's annoying to get stuck in the hairs on your arm when working on locks/handles etc. They help a bit with noise, too.
#15
Posted 01 June 2021 - 07:40 AM
Quick question everyone, does the internal door handles have a locking circle like the winders. I have removed the screw but still firmly attached.
Cant see any circlip on workshop manual.
Howie
#16
Posted 01 June 2021 - 07:44 AM
No circlip, just pushes onto a spline and the screw secures it in place.
#17
Posted 01 June 2021 - 08:26 AM
Pull harder.
#18
Posted 12 June 2021 - 10:56 AM
If you use the Butyl mastic (windscreen saelant) it doesn't go hard and you can pull them off and stick them back on without any new glue/resealing. Though, it's annoying to get stuck in the hairs on your arm when working on locks/handles etc. They help a bit with noise, too.
I just removed my water deflectors and they just peeled off, must of used a similar product during production
Howie
#19
Posted 14 June 2021 - 11:39 AM
Dynamatted the holes when i done the doors
Left the backing on the "sticky" side and just cut the backing off the contact area
Filled them well, and nice and neat
#20
Posted 14 June 2021 - 01:44 PM
Dynamatted the holes when i done the doors
Left the backing on the "sticky" side and just cut the backing off the contact area
Filled them well, and nice and neat
I like that idea.
How do you reckon it will go if you need to pull them off though?
Some glues just dont like letting go.
Cheers
Rob
#21
Posted 15 June 2021 - 10:57 AM
Its only like a bitumous surface that you have to work to get it to adhere -- its not a glue as such
Sort of no different to the mastic to get it off that they used with the plastic seal once it has set
Edited by Swarbs, 15 June 2021 - 10:57 AM.
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