14 replies to this topic

[ls2lxhatch]

Picture in this thread.

[GML-31]

[Heath]

It will take some mucking around with; lateral jiggle, push-pull, if my experience was a typical one. It took me a fair bit of f*cking around but once I got it out once, I didn't struggle too much a to do it another five or so times to get my head around what was really goin on down there.

I don't think it actually matters what position it is in, contrary to popular beleif, but I may be wrong.

[Collo]

I don't think the key position matters either. Some come out easy and some don't want to come out at all...

[Heath]

If you have your column out, it ain't too bad. If it was in the car, I would still drop it so you have access (with your hand) to the linkage that runs down the side of the column. Once the ignition barrel is removed, the ignition switch is no longer really 'indexed', so it can go out of adjustment by a small fraction, preventing the good line-up between the barrel and the cog kinda unit.

If you remove the ignition switch, the linkage can move too far and the pinion gear will disengage from the (toothed) rack, and they will need to be lined up again, which is a bit of a pain

Geeze this is hard to explain on the net. The genuine LH workshop manual does not explain it very well either. Have a fiddle

EDIT: Oooo and if you are replacing it with a crappy aftermarket one (eBay; don't know if Rares make them and/or what they're like), you may need a little bit of impact to assist in the installation.

Edited by Heath, 28 April 2009 - 08:04 AM.

[Collo]

I replaced one ages ago with a cheap one and could never get it to lock in properly. Could pull it straight out the column. Dont know whats out there now but get a decent one if replacing IMO.

[One Item Bucket List]

So, I found this thread in the Google time machine. My story is, to get the barrel out I was basically going off videos on youtube featuring WB's and H whatevers, because there aren't any Torana ones. 

 

As per those, I pulled the external part using multigrips, and it popped right off. Now I don't know how much trouble I'm in. It looks like there's a little collar holding the barrel in, but I can't be sure. Is that the spring steel someone mentioned above?

 

Halp!

 

 

 

 

Attached Files

•  5.jpg   130.08K   2 downloads

[dron]

Basicly the same as the H serirs car any way. Key must be in the correct position, Dont rember if it is Acc or on but you can not press in the locking tab if it is not correct. Push in the lock tab in through the slot (long and narrow in the upper RH of your Picture in line with the end of the lock) I normaly find a small screwdriver will do the job. It is often possable to push sideways on the screwdriver once the tab hase moved in to start the barrel moveing, Then just slowley pull it out. Not into applying force to the tab at the end of the lock, They tend to pop off as yours has. Can still be sorted by a locksmith if you dont loose the part,

     I normaly fit a compleat new lock set to my older Holdens anyway, Makes it a lot harder for any old worn key to open and start the car. I have had dammaged locks by someone trying to force the door and ignishen in the past but the new locks stoped them getting the car.

Edited by dron, 29 May 2025 - 04:22 PM.

[One Item Bucket List]

Thanks! I was pushing the tab and pulling the lock, because that's how a video showed it. ☹ 

 

I'm replacing the barrel because at one point my key was just spinning around and around. I couldn't select any position, but now it seems to do a couple of positions. One of the comments above said it doesn't matter, but it obviously can't hurt!  

[One Item Bucket List]

Success! The screwdriver got no sideways movement going, but the pointy vice grips did the trick. Although I have no idea really about what position the key was.

 

 

Attached Files

•  6.jpg   76.68K   0 downloads