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Flaring old (original) steel brake lines???

Started by _Squarepants_ , May 14 2009 08:20 PM

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12 replies to this topic

#1 _Squarepants_

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:20 PM

I'm about to add a certain solenoid valve to my rear brake circuit. It's a B&M breed, I think they call it a launch control valve. I'm fitting it as I'm really concerned about my launch control!!! :tease:

I would like to think that I can just plumb it into my existing line (I want to put it under the car at the rear, near the diff, where the floor pan starts curling up for the diff, so Plodd won't see it), but I've been told by the brake shop in earlier (unrelated) discussions that it's extremely hard to flare old steel tubes without them cracking. Is this a feasable concern?
My other question is: Does anyone know of a good hand held flaring tool that will do 3/16" tubing, and will it work on old tubing? My mate that helped me with the pipework on my diff had a "Bluepoint" hand held jobby that he reckoned worked perfectly (apparently on every size other than 3/16") as he wasn't happy with the way it performed on the day and I had one fitting leak so I had to make another pipe and get it flared at the brake shop on their bench mounted machine.
I'm all for doing things myself and on the cheap, but if it means redoing things and having to spend more money doing it, then I'd rather just pay up front for it, however, I'd really prefer not to have to replace the whole tube if I don't have to.

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#2 76lxhatch

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:23 PM

I've never had any trouble flaring original steel lines by hand, just make sure you have a reasonable quality tool that allows you to correctly centre the double flare. Some of the cheap ones seem to get it off centre and won't seal properly.

Why are you putting the line lock on the rear?

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#3 _Squarepants_

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:29 PM

I've never had any trouble flaring original steel lines by hand, just make sure you have a reasonable quality tool that allows you to correctly centre the double flare. Some of the cheap ones seem to get it off centre and won't seal properly.

I thought a "Blue Point" one would be a good quality item, but it had issues with centre-ing(sp???) the flare. What breed do you use?

Why are you putting the line lock on the rear?

Why would I put it on the front???

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#4 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:31 PM

I have a flaring tool that does 3/16'' lines but I can't remember what brand it is as I've had it for a few years. I think I bought it from Repco. I find if I slowly turn & loosen the flaring point several times during the flaring process the metal is less likely to crack. You could always take them to someone like Pirtek, I personally wouldn't flare brake lines myself, but that's just me.

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#5 76lxhatch

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:35 PM

I've never had them crack using a standard double flare, weird.

Squarepants I use a combination of stuff that's been given to me and bits I've bought, the main thing seems to be to use a flat ended piece on the double flare bit rather than the tapered end, and make sure that the final tapered end you use is hard enough.

I run a B&M launch control on the front so I don't have to operate the brake pedal - same as a truck line lock, press pedal, flick switch, go! Only one foot required and leaves one free for the clutch

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#6 _Squarepants_

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:51 PM

I've never had them crack using a standard double flare, weird.

That's just what I've been told by the "professionals".

Squarepants I use a combination of stuff that's been given to me and bits I've bought, the main thing seems to be to use a flat ended piece on the double flare bit rather than the tapered end, and make sure that the final tapered end you use is hard enough.

I'll pass this info onto my mate and see what he says, thanks. Hopefully he'll learn something from it and have another crack (no pun intended) at it.

I run a B&M launch control on the front so I don't have to operate the brake pedal - same as a truck line lock, press pedal, flick switch, go! Only one foot required and leaves one free for the clutch

I get your idea, but I'm not so concerned about warming my tyres or actual launch control as I am about leaving big black wavy lines behind me as I peel of at warp speed. You can't do that if the fronts are locked up tight. I don't mind a bit of heel and toe, plus once I'm in second I don't have to worry about the clutch and can do some left foot braking (until I have enough power to hit 3rd! :3gears:

). It's a bit silly and childish, I know, but that's what I want.

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#7 Heath

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 09:04 PM

What the f*ck!? We are on a TORANA FORUM

You sound uncomfortable saying that you enjoy burnouts. You haven't stated that you even do them illegally

It is a bloody sad day when people feel embarrassed to say that kind of shit here.

Edited by Heath, 14 May 2009 - 09:07 PM.

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#8 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 09:17 PM

Yep, would have to agree, I love laying a good skid as much as the next guy. I didn't build a 400+bhp engine to tool around the streets at 50kph like driving miss daisy, though in saying that there is always a time & a place.

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#9 _Squarepants_

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 10:01 PM

OK, you got me! I was trying to be conservative as I've had a certain member have a go at me recently for being somewhat of a weaponhead, but now I know I'm in good company, I'll admit it! All I'm really interested in is fishying up and down the street. I don't care how fast my car is, I just want to fry tyres at high speed! Thanks guys, I feel like I've just joined a support group!
Yes, there is definately a time and place, which is why I felt obligated to appear conservative, as I have always maintained that mine is a street car (that, and the fact that I'm supposed to be a responsible adult by this stage in my life), and in saying that, I normally do observe the rules of the road, but occasionally one finds themselves on a quiet, deserted piece of blacktop that is just screaming for some darkened wavy decorations.

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#10 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 10:22 PM

Each to their own hey. This thread takes me back to my mispent youth, the local industrial area at 2am, a pair of BF Goodrich radials, vise grips on the rear brake line, blown banjo diffs & snapped axles & a $150 neg driving fine to go with a lecture on my irresponsible driving from Mr Plod lol.

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#11 ToRunYa

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 12:33 PM

AHHHH! i know who ya talking bout! and dont worry bout it, we all know that certain falla and all know hes an absolute wankel.
he may change his user name but capt'n obvious makes it clear on who he is!

Now go rip a big skid. ure car, ure decision, ure got the brains to do it somewhere "suitable".

Go nuts!

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#12 orangeLJ

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 03:31 PM

Burnouts are dangerous guys, you should be ashamed of endangering the life of everyone around you.

Nast little hoons you are!

I may have left half my rubber somewhere between spencer and home on the weekend, lucky im getting my new wheels/tyres next week!

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#13 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 07:23 PM

Hey Squarepants, if you get that "performance brake modification" done, don't do what my mate done & forget to switch it off once you've finished your "high velocity test drive". Not a good feeling trying to pull up from 80kph in a hurry with half your braking system "malfunctioning" lol.