hey fellas,
havent had much to do with this new mod con forum but ill be around alot over the next few weeks as i will be puttn sum cash into my lx hatch.
firstly, the engine i have in it is a L34 spec 308. It was rebuilt in october and im pretty much happy with it. I run straight gas and its great.
Latley ive been noticing times when i just turn it on (not all the time) and my HUD or dash lights are really bright. Its quite nice. lol.. the amperage guage on the late SLR dash rises to full. After some time this again falls to normal aswell as the dash lights. Normal is about 5 of 8 notches.
Together with this i find that my exhaust is alot my thoaty sounding. Sometimes it seems to drone. This is on a 2" system all the way though with extractors. The throaty noise also (me thnks) brings better acceleration and torque. However, the exhaust sometimes sounds great when the lights are NORMAL and the amperage guage is on 5 8ths.
This i think is totally random and i dont know where to start. I was thinkn alternator as its the only party under the bay i havent replaced. and im also thinkn the dizzy (electronic ignition from vk).
thats why im back guys, just wondering if you could help me out..
Thanks alot, any help appreciated.
Cheers,
Ben,
tempremental V8
Started by
_MediuM16A2_
, Mar 20 2006 10:39 PM
8 replies to this topic
#2
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 20 March 2006 - 11:04 PM
AFAIK the LH/LX sports dash doesnt have an ammeter. Perhaps you mean the voltmeter?
This would be consistent with your observations that the meter increases and the dash lights get brighter? It could be that you are running not enough voltage most of the time and are getting correct voltage after start up, test the voltage at the battery. Should be 13.8-14V when motor is idling around 1000rpm or higher. Higher than 14.4V has the potential to cook expensive parts of your electrics.
As the prob happens only on start up it sounds temperature related and most likely points to a faulty regulator on the alternator. This can be replaced for about $30. It is a fairly easy DIY task unless of course the reg is attached by a soldered lead, which makes it trickier.
This would be consistent with your observations that the meter increases and the dash lights get brighter? It could be that you are running not enough voltage most of the time and are getting correct voltage after start up, test the voltage at the battery. Should be 13.8-14V when motor is idling around 1000rpm or higher. Higher than 14.4V has the potential to cook expensive parts of your electrics.
As the prob happens only on start up it sounds temperature related and most likely points to a faulty regulator on the alternator. This can be replaced for about $30. It is a fairly easy DIY task unless of course the reg is attached by a soldered lead, which makes it trickier.
#3
_MediuM16A2_
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 11:09 AM
its doesnt happpen all the time though. its totally random. and its not just after start up.. sumtimes it does it after and hr or so of driving at full temprature..
i dunno know what i mean about ammeter or volt metre. its just the battery related one..definatley a late SLR dash tho..
thought about the regulator, that could be the problem, but where is the best place to start for the power differences..
should i get the dizzy recurved.
i dunno know what i mean about ammeter or volt metre. its just the battery related one..definatley a late SLR dash tho..
thought about the regulator, that could be the problem, but where is the best place to start for the power differences..
should i get the dizzy recurved.
#4
Dangerous
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 11:33 AM
dev-ad has probably given you a good starting point, but it's not clear from your original post if the condition changes when you actually start the motor, or when you just turn the ignition on - which one is it?
I'll assume though that the change occurs between ignition on and engine off, to ignition on and engine running.
The SL/R gauge is a volt meter, not an ammeter. If it's rising to full scale, then you probably have too much voltage. This normally cannot happen unless the engine is running, and the two main causes are a fault in your alternator, or an earth problem between battery and chassis, battery and engine block, and battery and dashboard.
I don't think that this is related to your power and exhaust note, unless the problem is bad enough to seriously affect the operation of your electronic ignition.
Re the electronic ignition, if you're only running gas, then you could probably get a bit more power out of recurving it to suit straight gas, but this will affect its performance (and may cause pinging) if you ever run it on petrol.
Try checking and replacing as necessary all of your engine bay earth leads, and check the alternator output as dev-ad has suggested - measure the voltage at the battery terminals. WP Smiths at 593 North East Rd next to the Maccas or Hungry Jacks (or whatever poison shop it is) is a good local auto electrician to get your alternator checked at.
Good luck.
I'll assume though that the change occurs between ignition on and engine off, to ignition on and engine running.
The SL/R gauge is a volt meter, not an ammeter. If it's rising to full scale, then you probably have too much voltage. This normally cannot happen unless the engine is running, and the two main causes are a fault in your alternator, or an earth problem between battery and chassis, battery and engine block, and battery and dashboard.
I don't think that this is related to your power and exhaust note, unless the problem is bad enough to seriously affect the operation of your electronic ignition.
Re the electronic ignition, if you're only running gas, then you could probably get a bit more power out of recurving it to suit straight gas, but this will affect its performance (and may cause pinging) if you ever run it on petrol.
Try checking and replacing as necessary all of your engine bay earth leads, and check the alternator output as dev-ad has suggested - measure the voltage at the battery terminals. WP Smiths at 593 North East Rd next to the Maccas or Hungry Jacks (or whatever poison shop it is) is a good local auto electrician to get your alternator checked at.
Good luck.
#5
_MediuM16A2_
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 12:46 PM
ok thanks for that fellas..
yeah sometimes (not just when i start it up) it happens (freaky dash lights)..it could be in the middle of a drive or at the begining of one. its pretty much totally random..
ill get that alternator checked out by that sparky, thanks for that dangerous..
i only run gas soo i dont see the problem in getting it recurved to suit the cam and the fuel and specs of the engine...i dont have a petrol tank you see.
cheers.
yeah sometimes (not just when i start it up) it happens (freaky dash lights)..it could be in the middle of a drive or at the begining of one. its pretty much totally random..
ill get that alternator checked out by that sparky, thanks for that dangerous..
i only run gas soo i dont see the problem in getting it recurved to suit the cam and the fuel and specs of the engine...i dont have a petrol tank you see.
cheers.
#6
_MediuM16A2_
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 05:19 PM
just quickly tested it..
its about 13ish volts on idle and goes up to 15v at about 1500rpm
its about 13ish volts on idle and goes up to 15v at about 1500rpm
#7
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 05:57 PM
99% chance its your regulator. Get it fixed asap, most of your stuff MAY survive on 15V, if thats as far as it goes, but given theres a prob it could get a lot worse quickly too. If you must drive it, turn on as many high current electricals as you can(rear demist, heater fan,cooling fan? headlights-theyll use lots of current, but the most suspect to higher volts) to try and get the voltage to drop, id leave the stereo off if thats valuable.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 21 March 2006 - 06:01 PM.
#8
_MediuM16A2_
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Posted 21 March 2006 - 09:26 PM
thanks alot guys. ill let you know.
#9
_JBM_
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Posted 22 March 2006 - 08:10 PM
Just after you turn the motor on it will be running a bit faster until the choke mechanism turns off ie more volts generated.
Also a bad earth from your dash lights will cause them to be dim or bright. The cluster has a 1 common black wire for the earth running to all the gauges and lights that runs back through the main dash loom and 2 connectors back to earth. Someone mentioned shortening this wire and earthing it at the dash, remove paint at earth point.
If a wire is rubbing on metal somewhere, intermittently earthing out, for the power side you can also have problems with voltage to your lights.
James
Also a bad earth from your dash lights will cause them to be dim or bright. The cluster has a 1 common black wire for the earth running to all the gauges and lights that runs back through the main dash loom and 2 connectors back to earth. Someone mentioned shortening this wire and earthing it at the dash, remove paint at earth point.
If a wire is rubbing on metal somewhere, intermittently earthing out, for the power side you can also have problems with voltage to your lights.
James
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