
Rear Disc Brake Master cylinder for LH LX
#1
_LH SLR 3300_
Posted 15 June 2009 - 05:48 PM
I am fitting a VN V8 LSD complete with rear discs to one of my LH Toranas. I'm also fitting a Hopper's front brake conversion as well so the car will have Commodore wheel PCD all round. Hoppers recommend using a 1'' bore master cylinder & I know Commie boosters & master cylinders can be retro fitted, however I want the engine bay to look as close to original 1975 specs as possible, so I want to keep the factory V8 Torana booster in place. Is there a master cylinder that will bolt up to the Torana booster & imperial thread brake lines? Also can the check valve that bolts to the RH skirt be modified to suit rear discs or will it have to be removed? Any advice is much appreciated.
#2
Posted 15 June 2009 - 07:31 PM
The standard factory LX PBR P7369 Disc/drum Master cyl has a 1"bore and should be used in conjunction with the original
Proportioning valve(bolted to the inner right hand guard).
For Disc/Disc models, I think the P7470 master cyl was used, well at least on kinkys anyway, but it was essentually the same as P7369 Disc/drum with out the check valve installed behind the brass connector in the rear outlet of Mcyl.
So you can convert one into disc/disc easily.
While the Proportioning valve was also different on Disc/Disc models, the original dics/drum one you probably have with markings "C150" will probably work just fine.
#3
_LH SLR 3300_
Posted 15 June 2009 - 08:13 PM
Well if you're looking to keep your engine bay as 1975 as possible and wish to keep the original big booster there is only one way to go really, original.
The standard factory LX PBR P7369 Disc/drum Master cyl has a 1"bore and should be used in conjunction with the original
Proportioning valve(bolted to the inner right hand guard).
For Disc/Disc models, I think the P7470 master cyl was used, well at least on kinkys anyway, but it was essentually the same as P7369 Disc/drum with out the check valve installed behind the brass connector in the rear outlet of Mcyl.
So you can convert one into disc/disc easily.
While the Proportioning valve was also different on Disc/Disc models, the original dics/drum one you probably have with markings "C150" will probably work just fine.
Thanks heaps for that info, that helps me alot. I'm trying to build the car so it looks as it might have if GMH had fitted EFI 5Ls to LHs back in 1975, so trying to keep as much of the car original as possible is important to me but then I also want it to drive, handle & stop as close as possible to what a modern car does. I think they call it Retrotech at the carshows these days. Cheers Matt
#4
Posted 15 June 2009 - 08:22 PM
#5
Posted 15 June 2009 - 08:49 PM
I've run mine with the original master (with residual pressure valve removed) and no proportioning (disable valve or replace with drum brake thingo), no hassles whatsoever, doesn't lock rears.
Thats good to know, I suppose you tested that in the dry, but what does it do in the wet?
Its all about the size of rear brakes and weight in the back.
A heavy old 4WDisc Statesman has a a lot less proportioning to the rear with a higher 450 crack point prop valve but a standard Torana & Kinky
with Drums and a light rear end required more proportioning( less braking presure to rear to stop lockup of rear wheels before front).
I dont know but a Hatchback may be heavier over the rear wheels and add a drop tank worth of fuel and you might be able to squeeze more
braking pressure to the rear brakes.
#6
Posted 16 June 2009 - 08:01 AM
Ditching the proportioning was suggested by Hoppers so I tried it first and it has worked for me. No problems in the wet.
You could possibly be right about the hatch being different, with the stock brakes I found I lost a lot of braking power when the rear drums slackened off, I had to find some self-adjusters to keep them up for best braking.
Remember that unless you're running identical brakes front and rear, disc brakes will naturally have different braking abilities regardless of the line pressure. The fact that the Skyline discs are slightly smaller diameter may also help in my case.
Edit: my old HZ ute was a real hassle with wanting to swap ends due to rears locking up first, I know how dodgy it is and believe me if the Torana was to give any indication of doing so I'd fix it!

Edited by 76lxhatch, 16 June 2009 - 08:03 AM.
#7
Posted 16 June 2009 - 10:51 AM
And utes never had rear discs so chances are the setup was a dodge anyway hence it trying to swap ends with no weight in the back
#8
Posted 16 June 2009 - 11:09 AM
#9
_LH SLR 3300_
Posted 16 June 2009 - 08:34 PM
I have twin piston 290mm fronts and standard R31 Skyline 260mm rears, both slotted rotors. The rear tyres are 265s, front are 225s with a V8 over them. The drop tank is only a recent addition and I haven't been able to afford to fill it yet!
Ditching the proportioning was suggested by Hoppers so I tried it first and it has worked for me. No problems in the wet.
You could possibly be right about the hatch being different, with the stock brakes I found I lost a lot of braking power when the rear drums slackened off, I had to find some self-adjusters to keep them up for best braking.
Remember that unless you're running identical brakes front and rear, disc brakes will naturally have different braking abilities regardless of the line pressure. The fact that the Skyline discs are slightly smaller diameter may also help in my case.
Edit: my old HZ ute was a real hassle with wanting to swap ends due to rears locking up first, I know how dodgy it is and believe me if the Torana was to give any indication of doing so I'd fix it!
So with the larger front discs & twin piston Hoppers brakes & standard VN rear discs which are smaller & have single piston calipers, the braking balance should be OK right?. How does leaving the proportion valve in place affect the braking with rear discs in place, can it cause rear wheel lockup under heavy braking?
#10
Posted 16 June 2009 - 08:50 PM
It won't lock the rears if you keep the proportioning valve as standard (disc/drum setup). Exactly the opposite, you will have very little rear brakes - don't do that.
#11
_LH SLR 3300_
Posted 16 June 2009 - 09:22 PM
#12
Posted 16 June 2009 - 09:30 PM
I have found that in some cases self adjusters on drum brakes can cause lock up problems. Also I mentioned the big rear tyres just in case that makes a difference.
#13
Posted 16 June 2009 - 11:54 PM
Ok cool, I'll try disabling the disc/drum proportion valve as finding a drum brake one will be hard I imagine. I'm curious to figure out though why two Toranas I owned in the past, both with standard disc/drum brakes suffered rear wheel lock up. Emergency braking would lock the rears up & throw both cars sideways. One was a 4.2 V8 auto & the other was a 3.3 6cyl manual but both cars seemed to suffer this problem for some reason which lead me to believe a rear disc setup would be more prone to lock up with the proportion valve in place than a drum rear.
My brothers old LH Torana locked up the rear wheels too, many years ago. Being an LH it didnt have auto adjusters on the drums.
Unfortunately we never ended up fixing it because he sold it. Now that we are more knowledgable and look back, I can speculate the
problem was a seized proportioning valve as it was only thing we didnt change. It wasnt proportioning down the rears and applying full
pressure to rear I suspect.
#14
Posted 17 June 2009 - 08:07 AM
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