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LX clutch master cylinder.


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#1 _Grounded_

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Posted 30 March 2006 - 04:16 PM

The clutch master cyl on the Torana I bought is fitted to the firewall on a bracket at about 45 degrees which looks absolutely ridiculous. So I modified the pedal box and now have it sitting flush on the firewall, just clear of the brake booster. It works well as it has a lot more mechanical advantage. Then I struck a snag when I tried to fit the wiper motor (I forgot about it in my haste) it fouls on the fluid reservoir of the clutch cylinder. The local brake shop has a one inch piston one from a landcruiser on order for me that looks like it will fit, it seemed a bit sacreligious but what the heck, I've already got a Ford gearbox in it. The 'cruiser unit has a clip on bottle that I may be able to remote fit somewhere out of the way if I have to. To make a long story longer, am I reinventing the wheel at great expense, is there a master cyl that will do the job. If you know of one and can give me a model or part number, that would be real handy.

#2 dattoman

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Posted 30 March 2006 - 04:41 PM

Since they never had hydraulic clutch orig your pretty much on your own to design something if the toyo one isn't right

Pics help

#3 Toranamat69

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Posted 30 March 2006 - 06:40 PM

Grounded, Sounds interresting what you are up to - I am keen to see the end results if it all works.

Can't help you with suitable master cylinder unfortunately. I was planning on fitting a VH44 in my clutch system to make the pedal nice and soft which you may need to incorporate if you can't get close enough to the optimum master to slave ratio.

Nothing wrong with a remote reservoir for the clutch master, plenty of cars had this standard and it works well.

M@

#4 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 30 March 2006 - 06:44 PM

Hi there grounded, i have gone through all this years ago on my lh it had a munci gear box
what i endup doing was fit a ford tipe small master and matching slave that were on most older fords
it sounds like you have done it very simler to me. i allso moded the pedels and cut hole throug the firewall under the wiper motor were the original mouting bracket was for the manual clutch this fitted very good and just missed the rocker cover off the chev with tall covers buy half a inch


cheers dave

#5 rodomo

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Posted 31 March 2006 - 09:21 AM

Toyota Hi-Ace have a remote reservoir for both clutch and brake master. Might be worth investigating for some.

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#6 _Grounded_

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Posted 31 March 2006 - 05:01 PM

I'll check out that Hi-ace remote thanks.

Dave, it may well be very similar to what you did except that the pushrod comes out through the original cable hole horizontally

I don't have any pics with me, I am at work for another week yet. The master is one inch, the slave came with the dellow bellhousing, looks about inch and a quarter. The clutch/pressure plate is 10.5 inch Sachs, was told it is 2700 pounds (which doesn't mean much to me). Even with this it is fairly easy to push, the wife did it when I bled the system.

The main reason I went with the Toyota master is because it has a discharge straight out the end which will give plenty of clearance above the tappet cover. I am planning on putting an elbow in the end and turn it to face toward the carby and then route the line from there down the bellhousing.

#7 StephenSLR

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Posted 04 April 2006 - 03:31 PM

You can always go back to the slanted master cylinder which work fine for many albeit with a reservoir that never looks full.

s

#8 _Sammy_

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Posted 05 April 2006 - 01:36 PM

You can always go back to the slanted master cylinder which work fine for many albeit with a reservoir that never looks full.

s

i'd push on with the current mods, i have the angled master and its really heavy!

i too would love to see the end result when you work out all the details, if its easy to do it will be so worth it :)

theres nothing like sitting in traffic in the torry with the heavy clutch!

#9 Toranamat69

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Posted 05 April 2006 - 06:15 PM

Hey Sammy, what slave cylinder are you using, you know there are a couple of sizes of those too? You could potentially improve things from what you have.

M@

#10 _Sammy_

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Posted 06 April 2006 - 02:10 PM

yeah i believe the slave i have is the 1 1/4 inch or whatever it is .... i got new seals for it a while back but can't remember which one it ended up being. master cylinder is the typical 1 inch disc brake and clutch unit.

#11 _brett_32i_

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Posted 07 April 2006 - 08:04 PM

i kept my crappy crs angled setup, and cut and rewelded the resoiver so it sits at a normal angle.
looks better but still sh1thouse... (pic might be on cardomain?)

#12 _Grounded_

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Posted 22 April 2006 - 09:49 PM

Well I finally got the clutch set up. I ended up using a master cylinder off a late �60s cruiser, it has the end outlet and it�s the only one with the 1� bore all the later models were ��. In order to get clearance for the filler cap from the wiper motor I tapped out the reservoir to 3/8� BSP and fitted a nipple then screwed the reservoir onto that. This raised it up about 20mm which gave extra clearance from the brake booster as well. As you can see in the photo (assuming I did it right and there is a photo) it sits flush with the firewall but leans over to the left at a slight angle. A bit of fine tuning should fix that. I�m putting in a VN V8 booster and master (when I can get one) as I will have discs on the rear, and this will give me some extra clearance as well and may enable me to sit it up straight. Not too many more moves though or else my firewall will look like swiss cheese. The hose set up in the pic is only temp, I�m thinking of running tubing out the front in a nice tight bend then straight back, and follow the firewall down almost to the slave with a short bit of flex at the end. I couldn�t get a decent pic of the pedal box as I�ve already put the steering column back in for transport. It comes back out in a month or so to put the wiring in after I get the car painted, and I�ll get some then. It was a lot of mucking about but it was well worth the hassle to get it looking the part, and it is very easy to push. The pedal box mods took me quite a few days of trial and error but it can be done by anyone with some basic tools. Buy all the gear ( master cylinder, 100mm of flat bar and some bolts) and you�ll have it done in a day, if you take out the steering column and drivers seat. If you don�t take them out�..give yourself a week.

As you can see there is no photo. How it gets on here as a link I have no idea, do I need to send it to someone to add??? It's on my computer so obviously I can't link that.




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