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can you put too much primer on?


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#1 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 06:50 PM

can you apply too much primer??
Finished repairing the driver side sill today on my xu1,replaced the rust section body filled and happy with the out come,was going to just dust a coat of primer over it but had heaps of primer there so I thought I would give it a few coats.Been told to give a good 4 or 5 coats when priming but thought that wasn't enough.So I mixed 200mil of primer and 200mil of thinners and evenly sprayed it on until the gun was empty.Is this too much???
oh yeh the section was from the front bull nose to the front of the rear wheel arch.
cheers

#2 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 06:55 PM

it,ll probably take for ever to cure,i,d be using 2 pack at this stage of the game.

cheers craig

Edited by 73BATHXU1HTBATH350, 26 September 2009 - 06:55 PM.


#3 _nial8r_

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:04 PM

nah you will be right mate the most i have put on a car was 2 x 4ltr tins of 1K ( high build ) on my old VL good for filling in stone chips and so on and besides if you still have more of the car to do i wouldnt go stressing about it cause by the time you guide coat it and block it down there will be a good chance you will be throwing a couple more good wet coats of primer down for the final block down before colour Posted Image

#4 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:18 PM

if i was restoring some worthless vehicle then use 1k at this stage ,if you want to preserve a collectable then use 2k,the 1k if left for time can let moisture through to steel and start rust.i,d use 1k for last coats before colour.

cheers craig.

#5 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:23 PM

Cheers for that,I am going down the acryil road some may disagree.I was going to use ppg dulon all the way through.
Or could I use 2 pak primer then acrylic colour?

#6 brocks72xu1

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:36 PM

hi dane
do your self a favour and buy some dupont 840r epoxy primer apply 2 to3 coats over repairs its the best on the market atm ,you seen my car at the fest ,its been epoxy primed hifilled full 5l kit speed filed with 120 git then 180 then re hifilled speed filed with 180 then 240 finished off in 1200 then painted and all is under warranty under dupont ,remember the first time its hifilled you are nearly taken the whole lot off next hifill coats are just to re seal ,trust me ive been doing this stuff for over 17 years now started my apprentship when i was 13 years old and just done show cars and european crap

cheers grant

#7 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:42 PM

you can do what ever you like,i did my 73 bathurst xu1 2k etch,2k high fill overwhole car,rub back ,some 2k undercoat,rub back when happy with finish,1k undercoat 3 odd coats make sure all areas are covered with 1k undercoat let sit for a few weeks as 1k is slow to go off,the reason for 2k undercoats is they go off quick and less likely to see sink backs in top coat,once happy with final 1k finish put on colour,8 coats let sit, the longer the better,like months, then slice back with 800, and work to 2000 wet and dry, then buff to a gloss like a mirror,ask UFOXU1 he,s seen the finish product.

if the acrylic undercoat is not over the 2k, it won,t bond to it.

#8 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 26 September 2009 - 09:35 PM

Nah, you can't put enough on, it is a filling layer to get the surface even smoother.

Don't listen to those others, if acrylic is done properly, it can give a much more superior and flatter finish than 2k with less effort (2k still gets orange peel, but is way harder to remove). Having said that, I've been told that I prolly have enough experience now to venture into 2k, but don't really want to.

Couple of things I'd prolly do a bit differently.
- Paint mix. I'd of done 200ml paint to 300ml thinners (1.5 times the thinner + )
- Make sure the paint flashes off between coats (i.e. be patient, and wait till it goes an even level of gloss right across the paint film).
- Use finer grades of sandpaper, as acrylic is notorious for shrink back. Your primer coat needs to be as good as your top coat, if not, take it back and fix it up.
- Use 360 grit wet and dry for rubbing out your stone chips, and keep your paper on a block and flat. It will take longer, but will ensure that the paint is fully feathered out.
- Use a guide coat and then 800 grit again, held flat on the bottom of your hand/block. Resist the temptation to use your finger tips for a quick win.
- Do a quick run of 800 grit wet and dry just before you put the top paint on to key the surface.

Just a couple of things I've also learnt of late in perfecting my paint, hope it helps.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 26 September 2009 - 09:37 PM.


#9 _BATHURST-32D_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 06:07 AM

a bit of advice, just follow what you have been told by grant [brocks72xu1] and you want go wrong,,.

cheers gong

#10 brocks72xu1

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:24 AM

hi dane
pm sent give me a ring ,im awake now, three kids screaming get up dad,but the daughter wants to go out in the garage

cheers grant

#11 _nial8r_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:06 AM

im with Yella SLuR on this one, i have always said you will get a better finish with acrylic than 2k but each to there own Posted Image

#12 brocks72xu1

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:16 AM

dane you can buy dupont paint called 600 in sunburst met it can be over coated with 2k or arcylic clear 6000 is can only be used using 2k clear,i can can get some prices for you if you like then you now where you stand
Posted Image
this harley has been done using 600 straight tinter with bright silver, orange as the candy effect fames where etch into bare metal then cleared using 3050s clear same i as i used on my car,gives a flater finish than any 2k clears on the market and gives a shine like a mirror

#13 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:42 AM

Brocks72XU1, I think I met you one year at Penrith. So is that clear acrylic or 2K, just not clear from your post? Nice paint job, but still not sure if I aspire to that sort of stuff, but might have a go with a Holden logo on the shed wall as a starter.

For an every day car where durability is important I'd say sure, a no brainer, go the 2K, but for our old beasts that spend more days in the shed than out, acrylic is more than adequate, and easier to get a show finish with.

#14 brocks72xu1

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:52 AM

Brocks72XU1, I think I met you one year at Penrith. So is that clear acrylic or 2K, just not clear from your post? Nice paint job, but still not sure if I aspire to that sort of stuff, but might have a go with a Holden logo on the shed wall as a starter.

For an every day car where durability is important I'd say sure, a no brainer, go the 2K, but for our old beasts that spend more days in the shed than out, acrylic is more than adequate, and easier to get a show finish with.


600 range is a universal basecoat system which can be over coated with arcylic or 2k clear 6000 is only for 2k use ,it has been a good 16 years since ive painted arcylic so im a straight out 2k man or nothing,i can sort off remember meeting you but over the years you meet so many people and gets hard to put a name to a face now,600 doesnt drie out as fast as arcylic basecoat so its easier then arcylic as it elimates banding and streaking in paint jobs and give a nice even finish

Edited by brocks72xu1, 27 September 2009 - 08:59 AM.


#15 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 09:12 AM

Know where you are coming from, so many people!!!

I always thought 2K was smooth off the gun till I had the VT repaired, and they pointed out the dimpled effect. The whole car could be taken back to smooth as, but at a price!! Now that I know about it I see it in alot of new car paint finishes.

:threadjacked:

I haven't had a play with spray putty/high build as yet. I now have a 2.1mm tip for the primer gun, so might have a play and see how it goes.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 September 2009 - 09:14 AM.


#16 TerrA LX

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:27 AM

can you apply too much primer??
Finished repairing the driver side sill today on my xu1,replaced the rust section body filled and happy with the out come,was going to just dust a coat of primer over it but had heaps of primer there so I thought I would give it a few coats.Been told to give a good 4 or 5 coats when priming but thought that wasn't enough.So I mixed 200mil of primer and 200mil of thinners and evenly sprayed it on until the gun was empty.Is this too much???


If it is rubbed back then it is not a problem but if you build up too much of primer or paint etc then this can lead to easier chipping and crazing or cracking.

Know where you are coming from, so many people!!!

I always thought 2K was smooth off the gun till I had the VT repaired, and they pointed out the dimpled effect. The whole car could be taken back to smooth as, but at a price!! Now that I know about it I see it in alot of new car paint finishes.



It is smooth of the gun if you spray it that way.

Alot of finishes from the factory have peel in it and this is replicated by professionals to copy the factory finish.

Edited by TerrA LX, 27 September 2009 - 11:32 AM.


#17 _stu.slr_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 10:50 PM

yes you can use too much primer, esp acrylic as it shrinks as it dries. if its too thick it'll crack and craze. if i were doing it it would be a DIY at home so maybe some of the high performance systems arent an option. id use 2k primer except its CYANIDE. but id prime the panel to prevent rust and go back to it. id even brush primer on to prevent rust but then go back to finish off repairs. even if you sand it back you can still get cracks. too much paint is bad, like ten coats of paint on a car. its measured in microns so some over-enthusiastic person wants to do a "really good job" with lots of extra build-up coats. if your sanding it back again, yeh, i wouldnt worry too much

p.s. ive experienced crappy arse 2 pac jobs with wrong colours an not happy with it

#18 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:24 PM

Interesting view. Thin factory acrylic on my VN cracks and is crazing, and I'm sure they don't put it on too thick, mainly on the tailgate that cops the afternoon sun.

If you put a guide coat on, you'd sand most of your primer back anyway, same as compounding your top coats.

I want to know more.

Colour is always a problem for DIY paint, since you don't have a full range of tinters to adjust on the run. While the blokes at the paint shops do a great job matching, it always puzzles me why they don't have a colour wheel to assist them in tinting the colour in the right direction. Sooo many cans of paint ditched and started again.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 September 2009 - 11:28 PM.


#19 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:02 AM

Interesting view. Thin factory acrylic on my VN cracks and is crazing, and I'm sure they don't put it on too thick, mainly on the tailgate that cops the afternoon sun.



They measure the finish in microns so it is pretty thin to pass quality control.
Think you answered your own question but anyway,
Pretty standard with acrylic finishes and the sun, is it a one owner?
Was it regularly cleaned and waxed?
Has it lived outside all it's life for the first 5-10yrs? or in a harsh environment?

Colour is always a problem for DIY paint, since you don't have a full range of tinters to adjust on the run. While the blokes at the paint shops do a great job matching, it always puzzles me why they don't have a colour wheel to assist them in tinting the colour in the right direction. Sooo many cans of paint ditched and started again.



This I don't understand,
Do you mean the paint shop has no reference to mix the paint code for the colour you need or are you requesting to match a poorly blended spray job or a custom colour?

#20 brocks72xu1

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 06:29 PM

pat
the answer to your question is the factory painted cars are saving on there materails so they can 200 cars instead of 100 ,thats why when you look under the bottom of the doors theres no colour there (see thru ) and majority of the cars these days are all see thru ,a true painter that has been trained by the right tradesman can spot it a mile away,2k sprayed by a painter that knows what he is doin wont get orange peel but in saying that in smash work its important to match the oringinal peel .microns go out the door when you paint show cars because how else are you going to get a nice wet ,flat and depth looking paint job if you worried about microns ,my method i do show cars is as stated below but you have to remember your rubbing most of your hifill off,ive been doing this why for 17 years and have not had one come back eg cracking ,crazing and sink backs,the walkinshaw i did 5 years ago still looks like it was painted 2 weeks ago and was allways in the top ten at the sumernats and that thing had 8 coats of clear on it ,but you have to also remember you need to know the tricks

Edited by brocks72xu1, 28 September 2009 - 06:31 PM.


#21 _nial8r_

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 07:25 PM

pat
the answer to your question is the factory painted cars are saving on there materails so they can 200 cars instead of 100 ,thats why when you look under the bottom of the doors theres no colour there (see thru ) and majority of the cars these days are all see thru ,a true painter that has been trained by the right tradesman can spot it a mile away,2k sprayed by a painter that knows what he is doin wont get orange peel but in saying that in smash work its important to match the oringinal peel .microns go out the door when you paint show cars because how else are you going to get a nice wet ,flat and depth looking paint job if you worried about microns ,my method i do show cars is as stated below but you have to remember your rubbing most of your hifill off,ive been doing this why for 17 years and have not had one come back eg cracking ,crazing and sink backs,the walkinshaw i did 5 years ago still looks like it was painted 2 weeks ago and was allways in the top ten at the sumernats and that thing had 8 coats of clear on it ,but you have to also remember you need to know the tricks


Posted Image the more clear the better i say as if you do get a scratch in it or a cat runs across ya car ( bonnet to boot ) you can chop the whole car again with 1200 wet and give it a good buff and your still no where even close to chopping into the colour, i have always used a ship load of high build on all the cars i have done ( unless its a lick and stick ) and never had it craze on me and another thing i do is as soon as the colour is down with the final coat i always start throwing the clear on while the colour is still wet and then after im happy with the amount of clear on the car i leave it for as long as i can before chopping the peel out and buffing, thats my method and it works for me Posted Image

#22 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:02 PM

just what i,ve experienced with my cars that are restored,hk monaro painted 22 years ago was acrylic all the way,car rarely sees sun,after about 10 years whats that small bubble,2 years later its pissing me off time to fix,razorblade and sheet off about 300mm long and 50mm high,steel has a very slight tinge of rust,do repair have to blend whole 1/4 metalic blue.now has a crack that has been getting slowly bigger,and numerous other small defects,lifting paint and sink backs,you probably say what do you expect after this time,but these collectables rarely go out side and are kept in dry enviroment.

bathurst xu1 painted 15 years ago using 2 pack base with acrylic top coats looks perfect and shows no signs of lifting,only used acrylic top coats because is a collectable car and some people go this far.the cars like this have never lifted cracked or shown signs of sink backs,carn,t say that for the acrylic all the way cars though.

brock group 3 ,driven to town once a week 100km return trip,i have to respray the front of car once a year from stone chips,the acrylic chips very easily,vx gts painted in 2 pack does same miles and only gets stone chips repaired ever 4 years the 2 pack is much tougher and the chips much smaller,have a look at chips on modern cars they arn,t as big as some people make out,hope this is a help to some.

cheers craig.

#23 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 09:00 PM

just what i,ve experienced with my cars that are restored,hk monaro painted 22 years ago was acrylic all the way,car rarely sees sun,after about 10 years whats that small bubble,2 years later its pissing me off time to fix,razorblade and sheet off about 300mm long and 50mm high,steel has a very slight tinge of rust,do repair have to blend whole 1/4 metalic blue.now has a crack that has been getting slowly bigger,and numerous other small defects,lifting paint and sink backs,you probably say what do you expect after this time,but these collectables rarely go out side and are kept in dry enviroment.

bathurst xu1 painted 15 years ago using 2 pack base with acrylic top coats looks perfect and shows no signs of lifting,only used acrylic top coats because is a collectable car and some people go this far.the cars like this have never lifted cracked or shown signs of sink backs,carn,t say that for the acrylic all the way cars though.

brock group 3 ,driven to town once a week 100km return trip,i have to respray the front of car once a year from stone chips,the acrylic chips very easily,vx gts painted in 2 pack does same miles and only gets stone chips repaired ever 4 years the 2 pack is much tougher and the chips much smaller,have a look at chips on modern cars they arn,t as big as some people make out,hope this is a help to some.

cheers craig.

I think I will be going the way you done your bathurst xu1,sounds like its the best of both worlds.No sink back and the acrylic look. :spoton:

#24 _BATHURST-32D_

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 05:53 AM

he he, and that is the only way to go, i think that is what most people have been tryin to say to ya dane, 2pac prep and acrylic top coat is the only way to go, but you can get one better finish, that only a great painter will pick up on and that is all 2pak, with the flow coat finish.

cheers gong.

#25 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 06:33 AM

Yep thats it,I also forgot to say thank you to everyones input, aspecialy brocks72xu1 for spending an hour on the phone with me on Sunday. :clap: :clap: :clap:




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