
can you put too much primer on?
#1
_sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 26 September 2009 - 06:50 PM
Finished repairing the driver side sill today on my xu1,replaced the rust section body filled and happy with the out come,was going to just dust a coat of primer over it but had heaps of primer there so I thought I would give it a few coats.Been told to give a good 4 or 5 coats when priming but thought that wasn't enough.So I mixed 200mil of primer and 200mil of thinners and evenly sprayed it on until the gun was empty.Is this too much???
oh yeh the section was from the front bull nose to the front of the rear wheel arch.
cheers
#2
_Ozzie Picker_
Posted 26 September 2009 - 06:55 PM
cheers craig
Edited by 73BATHXU1HTBATH350, 26 September 2009 - 06:55 PM.
#3
_nial8r_
Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:04 PM

#4
_Ozzie Picker_
Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:18 PM
cheers craig.
#5
_sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:23 PM
Or could I use 2 pak primer then acrylic colour?
#6
Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:36 PM
do your self a favour and buy some dupont 840r epoxy primer apply 2 to3 coats over repairs its the best on the market atm ,you seen my car at the fest ,its been epoxy primed hifilled full 5l kit speed filed with 120 git then 180 then re hifilled speed filed with 180 then 240 finished off in 1200 then painted and all is under warranty under dupont ,remember the first time its hifilled you are nearly taken the whole lot off next hifill coats are just to re seal ,trust me ive been doing this stuff for over 17 years now started my apprentship when i was 13 years old and just done show cars and european crap
cheers grant
#7
_Ozzie Picker_
Posted 26 September 2009 - 07:42 PM
if the acrylic undercoat is not over the 2k, it won,t bond to it.
#8
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 26 September 2009 - 09:35 PM
Don't listen to those others, if acrylic is done properly, it can give a much more superior and flatter finish than 2k with less effort (2k still gets orange peel, but is way harder to remove). Having said that, I've been told that I prolly have enough experience now to venture into 2k, but don't really want to.
Couple of things I'd prolly do a bit differently.
- Paint mix. I'd of done 200ml paint to 300ml thinners (1.5 times the thinner + )
- Make sure the paint flashes off between coats (i.e. be patient, and wait till it goes an even level of gloss right across the paint film).
- Use finer grades of sandpaper, as acrylic is notorious for shrink back. Your primer coat needs to be as good as your top coat, if not, take it back and fix it up.
- Use 360 grit wet and dry for rubbing out your stone chips, and keep your paper on a block and flat. It will take longer, but will ensure that the paint is fully feathered out.
- Use a guide coat and then 800 grit again, held flat on the bottom of your hand/block. Resist the temptation to use your finger tips for a quick win.
- Do a quick run of 800 grit wet and dry just before you put the top paint on to key the surface.
Just a couple of things I've also learnt of late in perfecting my paint, hope it helps.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 26 September 2009 - 09:37 PM.
#9
_BATHURST-32D_
Posted 27 September 2009 - 06:07 AM
cheers gong
#10
Posted 27 September 2009 - 07:24 AM
pm sent give me a ring ,im awake now, three kids screaming get up dad,but the daughter wants to go out in the garage
cheers grant
#11
_nial8r_
Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:06 AM

#12
Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:16 AM

this harley has been done using 600 straight tinter with bright silver, orange as the candy effect fames where etch into bare metal then cleared using 3050s clear same i as i used on my car,gives a flater finish than any 2k clears on the market and gives a shine like a mirror
#13
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:42 AM
For an every day car where durability is important I'd say sure, a no brainer, go the 2K, but for our old beasts that spend more days in the shed than out, acrylic is more than adequate, and easier to get a show finish with.
#14
Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:52 AM
Brocks72XU1, I think I met you one year at Penrith. So is that clear acrylic or 2K, just not clear from your post? Nice paint job, but still not sure if I aspire to that sort of stuff, but might have a go with a Holden logo on the shed wall as a starter.
For an every day car where durability is important I'd say sure, a no brainer, go the 2K, but for our old beasts that spend more days in the shed than out, acrylic is more than adequate, and easier to get a show finish with.
600 range is a universal basecoat system which can be over coated with arcylic or 2k clear 6000 is only for 2k use ,it has been a good 16 years since ive painted arcylic so im a straight out 2k man or nothing,i can sort off remember meeting you but over the years you meet so many people and gets hard to put a name to a face now,600 doesnt drie out as fast as arcylic basecoat so its easier then arcylic as it elimates banding and streaking in paint jobs and give a nice even finish
Edited by brocks72xu1, 27 September 2009 - 08:59 AM.
#15
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 September 2009 - 09:12 AM
I always thought 2K was smooth off the gun till I had the VT repaired, and they pointed out the dimpled effect. The whole car could be taken back to smooth as, but at a price!! Now that I know about it I see it in alot of new car paint finishes.

I haven't had a play with spray putty/high build as yet. I now have a 2.1mm tip for the primer gun, so might have a play and see how it goes.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 September 2009 - 09:14 AM.
#16
Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:27 AM
can you apply too much primer??
Finished repairing the driver side sill today on my xu1,replaced the rust section body filled and happy with the out come,was going to just dust a coat of primer over it but had heaps of primer there so I thought I would give it a few coats.Been told to give a good 4 or 5 coats when priming but thought that wasn't enough.So I mixed 200mil of primer and 200mil of thinners and evenly sprayed it on until the gun was empty.Is this too much???
If it is rubbed back then it is not a problem but if you build up too much of primer or paint etc then this can lead to easier chipping and crazing or cracking.
Know where you are coming from, so many people!!!
I always thought 2K was smooth off the gun till I had the VT repaired, and they pointed out the dimpled effect. The whole car could be taken back to smooth as, but at a price!! Now that I know about it I see it in alot of new car paint finishes.
It is smooth of the gun if you spray it that way.
Alot of finishes from the factory have peel in it and this is replicated by professionals to copy the factory finish.
Edited by TerrA LX, 27 September 2009 - 11:32 AM.
#17
_stu.slr_
Posted 27 September 2009 - 10:50 PM
p.s. ive experienced crappy arse 2 pac jobs with wrong colours an not happy with it
#18
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:24 PM
If you put a guide coat on, you'd sand most of your primer back anyway, same as compounding your top coats.
I want to know more.
Colour is always a problem for DIY paint, since you don't have a full range of tinters to adjust on the run. While the blokes at the paint shops do a great job matching, it always puzzles me why they don't have a colour wheel to assist them in tinting the colour in the right direction. Sooo many cans of paint ditched and started again.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 September 2009 - 11:28 PM.
#19
Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:02 AM
Interesting view. Thin factory acrylic on my VN cracks and is crazing, and I'm sure they don't put it on too thick, mainly on the tailgate that cops the afternoon sun.
They measure the finish in microns so it is pretty thin to pass quality control.
Think you answered your own question but anyway,
Pretty standard with acrylic finishes and the sun, is it a one owner?
Was it regularly cleaned and waxed?
Has it lived outside all it's life for the first 5-10yrs? or in a harsh environment?
Colour is always a problem for DIY paint, since you don't have a full range of tinters to adjust on the run. While the blokes at the paint shops do a great job matching, it always puzzles me why they don't have a colour wheel to assist them in tinting the colour in the right direction. Sooo many cans of paint ditched and started again.
This I don't understand,
Do you mean the paint shop has no reference to mix the paint code for the colour you need or are you requesting to match a poorly blended spray job or a custom colour?
#20
Posted 28 September 2009 - 06:29 PM
the answer to your question is the factory painted cars are saving on there materails so they can 200 cars instead of 100 ,thats why when you look under the bottom of the doors theres no colour there (see thru ) and majority of the cars these days are all see thru ,a true painter that has been trained by the right tradesman can spot it a mile away,2k sprayed by a painter that knows what he is doin wont get orange peel but in saying that in smash work its important to match the oringinal peel .microns go out the door when you paint show cars because how else are you going to get a nice wet ,flat and depth looking paint job if you worried about microns ,my method i do show cars is as stated below but you have to remember your rubbing most of your hifill off,ive been doing this why for 17 years and have not had one come back eg cracking ,crazing and sink backs,the walkinshaw i did 5 years ago still looks like it was painted 2 weeks ago and was allways in the top ten at the sumernats and that thing had 8 coats of clear on it ,but you have to also remember you need to know the tricks
Edited by brocks72xu1, 28 September 2009 - 06:31 PM.
#21
_nial8r_
Posted 28 September 2009 - 07:25 PM
pat
the answer to your question is the factory painted cars are saving on there materails so they can 200 cars instead of 100 ,thats why when you look under the bottom of the doors theres no colour there (see thru ) and majority of the cars these days are all see thru ,a true painter that has been trained by the right tradesman can spot it a mile away,2k sprayed by a painter that knows what he is doin wont get orange peel but in saying that in smash work its important to match the oringinal peel .microns go out the door when you paint show cars because how else are you going to get a nice wet ,flat and depth looking paint job if you worried about microns ,my method i do show cars is as stated below but you have to remember your rubbing most of your hifill off,ive been doing this why for 17 years and have not had one come back eg cracking ,crazing and sink backs,the walkinshaw i did 5 years ago still looks like it was painted 2 weeks ago and was allways in the top ten at the sumernats and that thing had 8 coats of clear on it ,but you have to also remember you need to know the tricks


#22
_Ozzie Picker_
Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:02 PM
bathurst xu1 painted 15 years ago using 2 pack base with acrylic top coats looks perfect and shows no signs of lifting,only used acrylic top coats because is a collectable car and some people go this far.the cars like this have never lifted cracked or shown signs of sink backs,carn,t say that for the acrylic all the way cars though.
brock group 3 ,driven to town once a week 100km return trip,i have to respray the front of car once a year from stone chips,the acrylic chips very easily,vx gts painted in 2 pack does same miles and only gets stone chips repaired ever 4 years the 2 pack is much tougher and the chips much smaller,have a look at chips on modern cars they arn,t as big as some people make out,hope this is a help to some.
cheers craig.
#23
_sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 28 September 2009 - 09:00 PM
I think I will be going the way you done your bathurst xu1,sounds like its the best of both worlds.No sink back and the acrylic look.just what i,ve experienced with my cars that are restored,hk monaro painted 22 years ago was acrylic all the way,car rarely sees sun,after about 10 years whats that small bubble,2 years later its pissing me off time to fix,razorblade and sheet off about 300mm long and 50mm high,steel has a very slight tinge of rust,do repair have to blend whole 1/4 metalic blue.now has a crack that has been getting slowly bigger,and numerous other small defects,lifting paint and sink backs,you probably say what do you expect after this time,but these collectables rarely go out side and are kept in dry enviroment.
bathurst xu1 painted 15 years ago using 2 pack base with acrylic top coats looks perfect and shows no signs of lifting,only used acrylic top coats because is a collectable car and some people go this far.the cars like this have never lifted cracked or shown signs of sink backs,carn,t say that for the acrylic all the way cars though.
brock group 3 ,driven to town once a week 100km return trip,i have to respray the front of car once a year from stone chips,the acrylic chips very easily,vx gts painted in 2 pack does same miles and only gets stone chips repaired ever 4 years the 2 pack is much tougher and the chips much smaller,have a look at chips on modern cars they arn,t as big as some people make out,hope this is a help to some.
cheers craig.

#24
_BATHURST-32D_
Posted 29 September 2009 - 05:53 AM
cheers gong.
#25
_sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 29 September 2009 - 06:33 AM



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