hey all,
put all my brake back together and when bleeding them out, it bleeds well at each slave cylinder, but still get no pedal, is there a way to check the master cylinder? got uc girlock calipers on the front and stock LH drums on the back. any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
cheers waz
LH Brake Probs
Started by
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
, Oct 09 2009 07:20 PM
61 replies to this topic
#2
mitchg
-
- Members
-
- 3,111 posts
The guy with the Torailer
- Name:Mitch
- Location:Ingleburn, NSW
- Car:Was a '77 LX V6 Torana + Torailer now VX SS
- Joined: 19-May 07
Posted 09 October 2009 - 09:17 PM
I noticed I had not a lot of pedal either after I did mine, so I pulled the rear drums off and adjusted the pads so they sat out further and against the drum when put back together and I had a much better pedal. Does this make sense?
#3
Collo
-
- Members
-
- 114,647 posts
( . Y . )
- Location:Newcastle...Home of me.
- Car:A Black POS
- Joined: 29-February 08
Posted 09 October 2009 - 09:34 PM
Can you pump up the pedal without the engine running?
#4
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 October 2009 - 08:22 AM
mitchg - drums are adjusted right out,
slr_v8 - tried with it on n off, dont think its the booster, but not sure.
it pumps fuel down the line, but it seems the air comes back up to the master cylinder, is this possible?
When we bleed it, at each slave cylinder it all seems right but still cant get no pedal.
slr_v8 - tried with it on n off, dont think its the booster, but not sure.
it pumps fuel down the line, but it seems the air comes back up to the master cylinder, is this possible?
When we bleed it, at each slave cylinder it all seems right but still cant get no pedal.
#5
Struggler
-
- Members
-
- 2,426 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Andrew or AJ
- Location:Canberra A.C.T.
- Car:UC Sedan
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 10 October 2009 - 08:28 AM
If you took the calipers off are you sure you put them back on the correct sides ?
In all cases the bleed nipple should be above the fluid inlet.
Hope this helps.
In all cases the bleed nipple should be above the fluid inlet.
Hope this helps.
#6
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 October 2009 - 08:37 AM
bout to go and try that struggler, they are round the wrong way bacause the LH hoses are pulled tight to get to th girlock inlet holes. do the hoses come in longer lengthes or do we have to get HQ ones? are they hard to find?
#7
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 October 2009 - 11:25 AM
Struggler, that worked, bled well, to solve the hose problem we just put the caliper on backwards to bleed, then installed the right way round. when we tried to drive it the calipers locked up. the pads are very worn, only using them in these trials while we make sure the calipers are ok.
any ideas what causes them to lock up? ive heard of this problem on here b4 i think
any ideas what causes them to lock up? ive heard of this problem on here b4 i think
#8
rodomo
-
- Members
-
- 18,001 posts
To advertise here, call 13TORANA
- Name:R - O - B Dammit!
- Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
- Joined: 10-December 05
Posted 10 October 2009 - 12:57 PM
Reaction disc fallen into booster.
If you are trying to brake lightly but it's all there at once, this would normally be the culprit.
If you are trying to brake lightly but it's all there at once, this would normally be the culprit.
#9
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,473 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 10 October 2009 - 04:13 PM
So lets start from the beginning
You too the original calipers off and put on different calipers... on the wrong sides... using hoses that seem the wrong length... and I'll tell you now they have the wrong threads as UC are metric so you need to get some new hoses made regardless
Pics please of setup as it sits now
Don't use worn pads.. your wasting your time
I'm guessing aswell that the calipers haven't been rebuilt... so there could be issues with them too
You too the original calipers off and put on different calipers... on the wrong sides... using hoses that seem the wrong length... and I'll tell you now they have the wrong threads as UC are metric so you need to get some new hoses made regardless
Pics please of setup as it sits now
Don't use worn pads.. your wasting your time
I'm guessing aswell that the calipers haven't been rebuilt... so there could be issues with them too
#10
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 October 2009 - 06:18 PM
Heres the calipers.
caliper.jpg 1.43MB
36 downloads
took the old ones off, put these UC ones on, brake line thread matches the caliper, got them round the wrong way to fit the brake line. took them off and bled them. then put them back on, they bled well. put them back on and went to drive it and the front calipers we stuck on. there is also a slight whooshing sound when u push the brake pedal.
caliper.jpg 1.43MB
36 downloadstook the old ones off, put these UC ones on, brake line thread matches the caliper, got them round the wrong way to fit the brake line. took them off and bled them. then put them back on, they bled well. put them back on and went to drive it and the front calipers we stuck on. there is also a slight whooshing sound when u push the brake pedal.
Edited by JadeGreenLHSLR, 12 October 2009 - 06:19 PM.
#11
View GaragePosted 12 October 2009 - 07:44 PM
Sounds like just the hose length due to mounting position (as currently being discussed regarding the Hoppers kit in the other thread), provided that the brake line threads have been changed to suit.
Also sounds like Rodomo is on the money with the booster.
Also sounds like Rodomo is on the money with the booster.
#12
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,473 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 12 October 2009 - 08:36 PM
Calipers on wrong side
Hoses have wrong threads and wrong length (they screw in but they are wrong)
Discs need machining
Pads need replacing
Whoosh as in air noise from under dash ?
Booster pooped
Why did you take other calipers off ?
Hoses have wrong threads and wrong length (they screw in but they are wrong)
Discs need machining
Pads need replacing
Whoosh as in air noise from under dash ?
Booster pooped
Why did you take other calipers off ?
#13
Struggler
-
- Members
-
- 2,426 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Andrew or AJ
- Location:Canberra A.C.T.
- Car:UC Sedan
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 12 October 2009 - 08:54 PM
In reference to the brakes sticking on, when I got my UC it had been sitting a while and did the same. I pulled the sliding pins apart and cleaned/lubed them up. This fixed it.
#14
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 October 2009 - 05:57 PM
Had the calipers apart and cleaned and greased the pins.
UC claipers look better, are alloy (wont rust) and are bigger, and have wider range of pads. thats why we changed them.
put new pads in it tonight and pedal feels better, whoosh appears to be coming from manifold hose.
discs have been machined recently.
Do the hoses have to be made or are there any other models with longer and same threads?
UC claipers look better, are alloy (wont rust) and are bigger, and have wider range of pads. thats why we changed them.
put new pads in it tonight and pedal feels better, whoosh appears to be coming from manifold hose.
discs have been machined recently.
Do the hoses have to be made or are there any other models with longer and same threads?
#15
dattoman
-
- Administrators
-
- 16,473 posts
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
- Name:Neil
- Location:Perth Western Australia
- Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 13 October 2009 - 09:03 PM
Hoses need to be made to suit
They are 10x1 metric threads on the caliper end
3/8 unf on the body end
What did you grease the slides with ?
Never use any petroleum based products near brakes
They are 10x1 metric threads on the caliper end
3/8 unf on the body end
What did you grease the slides with ?
Never use any petroleum based products near brakes
#16
_mello92_
_mello92_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 October 2009 - 09:16 PM
Whoosh as in air noise from under dash ?
Booster pooped
I have been experiencing this ever since I've had my car, and the brakes seem to be working fine.
Pull the car up friggen quick when necessary.
Locks up the rears in the dry.
Should I be worried mate?
Sorry for the thread stealing Warren.
Edited by mello92, 13 October 2009 - 09:17 PM.
#17
Posted 14 October 2009 - 07:06 AM
Yeah mello you should get it checked out, its not a nice feeling when you hit the brakes and the pedal jumps back up at you! (It will still pull up but requires much bigger leg muscles and reaction time you don't have)
#18
_mello92_
_mello92_
-
- Guests
Posted 14 October 2009 - 07:51 AM
You obviously havent seen my legs then. 
Like I said, everything seems to be working fine, but yeah, I'll get it checked out.
Could a mechanic do this job, or should I take it to a brake shop?
Like I said, everything seems to be working fine, but yeah, I'll get it checked out.
Could a mechanic do this job, or should I take it to a brake shop?
#20
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 16 October 2009 - 08:22 AM
All good mello92, dattoman, for test purposes can we stay with the old brake line until we know they are gunna work? at the moment, if you push the pedal it goes straight to the floor, but you can pump it up and it becomes solid. but when we bled them there was no air in the line.
#21
Posted 16 October 2009 - 09:47 AM
If you have the wrong thread they simply won't work, you won't get it to seal which will make them impossible to bleed and give you a spongy pedal (before it disappears entirely).
#22
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 16 October 2009 - 11:01 AM
thats what ive heard except they bleed and the washer seals on the caliper seat, and they dnt leak fluid out.
so new brake lines are the
only way forward?
so new brake lines are the
only way forward?
#23
_stu.slr_
_stu.slr_
-
- Guests
Posted 17 October 2009 - 12:51 AM
apart from thread difference issues, i had an hj kingswood ute and the rears locked up for roadworthy brake test. tradespeople werent that helpful. ended up bleeding brakes with hose running back to resovoir. tiny air bubbles appeared but eventually the pedal became rock hard. clear plastic tubing helped to see the bubbles
#24
fuzzypumper
-
- Members
-
- 929 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:Archie
- Location:Melbourne Eastern
- Joined: 30-December 06
Posted 17 October 2009 - 12:17 PM
Being an LH, I assume it has the single pin brake failure switch in the proportioning valve?
You are reseting the brake light switch or at least leaving it unscrewed before going out on a test drive?
You are reseting the brake light switch or at least leaving it unscrewed before going out on a test drive?
#25
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
-
- Guests
Posted 19 October 2009 - 07:56 PM
pulled the front calipers apart and the piston had come right out and dislodged,
so it couldnt return.
problem caused by worn pads got new pads in and will let you know soon.
thanks for the help so far.
so it couldnt return.
problem caused by worn pads got new pads in and will let you know soon.
thanks for the help so far.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
