Edited by mr5000, 16 December 2009 - 05:23 PM.

what ratio gears for 9 inch
#1
Posted 16 December 2009 - 05:09 PM
#2
Posted 16 December 2009 - 05:22 PM
I would probably go 3.25 or 3.5, or something in between like a 3.33 if you can find it. May as well put one on that you can use with both motors, and that can just hack the highways without being stupidly unpleasant
#4
_scottya!_
Posted 17 December 2009 - 07:26 AM
A few to many having a guess on this site.
#5
Posted 17 December 2009 - 07:32 AM
get all your peak HP and peak torque figures then work out tyre roll out then gear ratio.
Im listening, so what is the secret?
#6
Posted 17 December 2009 - 07:33 AM
If you are running an Over-Drive (5/6 Speed or 4-5 speed auto), Go 3.9 or 4.11!
#7
Posted 17 December 2009 - 09:15 AM
I disagree, it all depends on your driving style and what you want from the car.do yourself a favour when you build your 355. Run it on the dyno ,get all your peak HP and peak torque figures then work out tyre roll out then gear ratio. Just takes the guess work out of everything.
Unless it is set up for a certain race track or a drag strip, I don't believe there is one "right" ratio.
#8
Posted 17 December 2009 - 09:23 AM
Ryan IS talking about 1/4 times.
I think what scottya! is getting at is calculating the mph over the 1/4 through the tyre/wheel size and ratios keeping the engine in it best power range.
#9
Posted 17 December 2009 - 11:09 AM
#10
Posted 17 December 2009 - 11:12 AM
#11
Posted 17 December 2009 - 11:41 AM
#12
_threeblindmice_
Posted 19 December 2009 - 07:15 PM
#13
Posted 19 December 2009 - 07:39 PM
If you have already raced the car it will set you straight.
#14
_scottya!_
Posted 20 December 2009 - 09:15 AM
What gearbox ya gonna run with ?i am re registering it and m20 will no be going behind the 355 not that silly and i am re registering it and i wanna run as quick as i can with out it being un driveable on the roads
When you build the 355, dont get caught up in the quest for heaps of HP. Try ang gain as much torque as you possibly can. Dont worry about trying to save on weight in the car. Because at the end of the day, every 50kg you remove from your car, that equates to 1 tenth of a second gain over the 1/4 mile(not really worth the trouble)
WOT179 power calculator will pretty much sort it out spot on .
#15
Posted 20 December 2009 - 09:54 AM
Dont worry about trying to save on weight in the car. Because at the end of the day, every 50kg you remove from your car, that equates to 1 tenth of a second gain over the 1/4 mile(not really worth the trouble)

#16
Posted 20 December 2009 - 06:30 PM
#17
Posted 20 December 2009 - 07:40 PM
Taking 50 kg off a 1500 kg car with 300 hp is worth around 1/10th of a second. However the effect of weight reduction on 1/4 mile times increases as the vehicle gets lighter.
Kg Pounds Time Diff
1500 3300 12.86 ----
1450 3190 12.72 0.14
1400 3080 12.56 0.16
1350 2970 12.41 0.15
1300 2860 12.26 0.15
1250 2750 12.10 0.16
1200 2640 11.94 0.16
1150 2530 11.77 0.17
1100 2420 11.59 0.18
1050 2310 11.42 0.17
1000 2200 11.24 0.18
#18
_scottya!_
Posted 20 December 2009 - 10:49 PM
But if you didn't take any weight out of your torana , and then added weight into your torana by way of roll cage you can go quicker again. Anyhow,this could go on and on. In general for a street car that gets a bit of 1/4 mile action , go a stroker more torque you can produce the better ya 60ft times the quicker ya ET's are going to be.
#19
Posted 21 December 2009 - 07:29 AM
So a 1500kg car with 300hp will only gain 1sec over the quarter if i take 1000kg out of it?
2 seconds,mate.
50kg =1/10. Ive always known it as 100lbs=1/10th
It only a ballpark calculation.
as is "if you can pick up 1/10th to the 60,its worth 2/10s in the top end."
Its not gospel,but its pretty close .
#20
Posted 21 December 2009 - 08:28 AM
#21
_the gts_
Posted 04 January 2010 - 10:45 PM
e.g aftermarket alum heads do both
lighter weight would do more that just reduce times, it would improve reliability wouldnt it??
Edited by the gts, 04 January 2010 - 10:48 PM.
#22
Posted 05 January 2010 - 08:11 PM
#23
_scottya!_
Posted 05 January 2010 - 11:07 PM
wouldnt smart people be trying to do both increase HP/torque AND reduce weight?
e.g aftermarket alum heads do both
lighter weight would do more that just reduce times, it would improve reliability wouldnt it??
Just out of interest, i changed from cast heads to aluminium heads on my clevo engine.
Weight difference between a bare 2V open chamber head (26kg) and a bare CHI 3V aluminium head 218cc(14kg).
Approx. 24kg weight reduction probably would help a fair bit over the front end i would imagine.
#24
_showoff_
Posted 05 January 2010 - 11:38 PM
Problem is if you go too tall it will make first real low, and traction at the track is always more slippery, so
ull find yourself spinning off the line into rev limiter instantly and breaking traction into second, so yeh i dont think anything higher than 3.5's with a 4spd.
because your trying too get it off the line right and use the power and ratios for the rest of the run too get you a good time.
My old maloo in street trim at the track and 400rwhp was all spinning. youve got too start spending more money getting suspension and tyres right too got your launch right before i would have even thought about diff ratios.
mmmm dribble dribble
#25
_TUFF75LH355_
Posted 05 January 2010 - 11:45 PM
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