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guide coat black?


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#1 benno81

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 06:51 PM

ok i am prepping my car for paint well i have been doing this for some time now but its getting close

I am no panel beater so my question is this my plan is to undercoat a panel at a time as i have been doing with primer/putty and have been coating with some lacquer black but this is pritty deer considering its only going to get sanded off anyway can i use the cheap import aresol cans from supercheap for the guide coat ,that way i can cover the section and get a gloss to make sure i have completly straightened the panel.

I think its only enemal but not sure wether I can use it or not??

thanks in advance

forgot to mention the car is going acrylic lacquer

#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 07:40 PM

Yep you can use them, i do.

Just make sure you get it all off or it will surely fry.

Cheers.

#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 08:41 PM

I have found some of the cheap cans tend to dry harder that the primer giving the impression the primer needs more rubbing than necessary.

FYI, guide coat need only be lightly dusted on, I usually buy a can of propper black acryllic for the job, one spray pass over the panel about a foot away at is more than enough, this way a can lasts for ages.

#4 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 09:30 PM

Yep, just make sure that the spray can says "Acrylic" somewhere on the can, preferably in big letters on the front, not small letters in the detail. If it says anything other than Acrylic, like "Acrylic Enamel" then it's no good to you.

I use acrylic matt black pressure pack guide coat myself, as it isn't worth cleaning the gun for a 30 second guide coat.

#5 _2runa_

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 09:51 PM

I use a product from 3M called Guide coat P/N 05861
This is a dry black powder and a powder puff like
applicator. You wipe on a light coating of powder
on sanded filler then sand more to see the high and
low spots. This can be a real life saver for folks that
difficulty feeling the highs and lows of bodywork or
when you're working a panel that is more complex
shape than a flat panel. If you want it right this is the tool.
Can be used for both wet and dry sanding. Contains no solvents.
So its no good for glue sniffers

#6 _2runa_

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 10:14 PM

Posted Image
this is what it looks like....works great
and no need to wait for it to dry

#7 _Pete_

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 11:05 PM

Posted Image
this is what it looks like....works great
and no need to wait for it to dry


This is also my preferred method for guide coat, most spray on guide coats not only clog your sandpaper they also only sit on top and they dont get down into the sanding scratches

Dye based ones like these powdered forms or the "purple haze" style spray on dye from CAM will get into the sanding scratches giving you a better and more accurate surface on which to paint.

#8 _yldlj_

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 10:32 PM

u can buy guide coat in a spray can from automotive supplys its gm black it has a nozzle on it that makes the spray really fine works great. otherwise i would just get a litre of gm black it works out cheaper than getting a shit load of cans to do your car.

#9 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 10:37 PM

^ How much guidance do you need? I've guide coated a whole car, and still have paint left over, just one spray can.

You learn something everyday, I might give that 3M a go. Thanks fellas.

#10 _yldlj_

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Posted 22 December 2009 - 07:52 PM

depends how many times you will be rubbing it back and reapplying hifill atleast twice? well i would be anyway. and all of your inner jams, engine bay boot floor. just easier with a spray gun

#11 TerrA LX

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Posted 23 December 2009 - 01:11 PM

^ I tend to dry rub these stages, works better for me and you don't need guide coat.
I finish off with a coat of primer to be sure I have all the little scratches I guide coat and wet rub this before colour coat.




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