19 replies to this topic

[Com_VC]

Hi,

I'm putting together a 202 at the moment and it's got me thinking. Most of the newer motors these days use some sort of sealant instead of gaskets, that blue rtv stuff usually. Obviously you need to use gaskets some places like head gasket, manifolds, rocker cover and side plates.

I'm thinking maybe the sump, fuel pump, thermostate housing, waterpump and timing cover I should be able to get away with the sealant. I'm just trying to prevent leaks, not save $$$ as I have the cork gaskets sitting right here anyway.

On most 202's that I have bought they have been covered in oil on both sides of the motor. The current one I have I think it may be due to a busted oil pressure switch. Not 100% sure why the other side was so oily though? Probably a leak from the rocker cover gasket.

Also the timing cover was covered in oil as well, i'm guessing this may have been the crank seal.

Also i've noticed the bolts seem to work there way free easily, most of the sump bolts and rocker cover bolts very pretty loose. I'm thinking maybe a spring washer and some loctite would help here?

Anyone have any tips for a leak free Holden six?

Thanks

[rodomo]

I wouldn't use just a sealer on the sump, rocker cover or side plates (or any other pressed steel surface)

Basically anywhere where 2 machined surfaces meet would be O.K. with the exeption of the head, manifold and carbie...........................and here's the big one...........don't remove any gasket that prvoides a clearance or alignment, fuel pump, water pump, oil pump, timing cover.

Doesn't leave much on a Red 6............does it?

[Com_VC]

Thanks for that so something like Hylomar should do the trick as well.

Is it worth using loctite on the bolts?

Also do any of the head bolts on a 202 go through coolant, I cant remember.

[greens nice]

Thanks for that so something like Hylomar should do the trick as well.

Is it worth using loctite on the bolts?

Also do any of the head bolts on a 202 go through coolant, I cant remember.

as old johnno just said, the bolts dont come loose, gasket shrinks so loctite is pointless.

yes they do, i use some sort of black gasket cement on screw in studs and head bolts, (has dribbled all over the name so i cant tell you what its called lol)

[rodomo]

I use contact adhesive to glue the sump gasket to the rails, the side plate gaskets to the side plates and the rocker cover gasket to the rocker cover.

[FastEHHolden]

Speco make rubber rocker cover gaskets...I dont have much trouble with sideplates...but the day they make a 1 piece rubber/neoprene sump gasket I'll buy a dozen.

[Com_VC]

yeah I loved the idea of those rubber gaskets for the rocker covers, but everyone told me they leak?

[TerrA LX]

If you do (and I try not to) use silicon type sealants make sure you either use it as per OEM (where they run a bead and let it dry before installation) or just a thin smear on gaskets.
Any overhang inside the motor will break away and most likely end up stuck to the end of the oil pick up or stuck somewhere else in the motor where you least want it.

They don't start leaking straight away (unless you done something wrong) so if you get a couple of thousand Km's out of it it is cheap enough to re do the rocker and side plate gaskets and nip the sump up.

Can you get the rubber one piece sump gasket like you can for the V8?

[Com_VC]

I wouldn't use just a sealer on the sump, rocker cover or side plates (or any other pressed steel surface)

Basically anywhere where 2 machined surfaces meet would be O.K. with the exeption of the head, manifold and carbie...........................and here's the big one...........don't remove any gasket that prvoides a clearance or alignment, fuel pump, water pump, oil pump, timing cover.

Doesn't leave much on a Red 6............does it?

Been thinking about this today, but why do you say that the water pump needs a clearance or alignment?

Also how about the thermostat housing that bolts to the head and the thermostat cover, these are machined surfaces are they not? So should be right to use a sealant there instead of gasket?

Thanks

[rodomo]

Yes, you're probably right about the waterpump not being so critical.
It would however put the pulleys slighly out of alignment and I would be checking the tolerance between the impeller and No.1 bore.

Having said that, and regarding the thermostat housings as well, these were good machined surfaces 30+ years ago, perhaps not so much now, and you are trying to seal hot water under pressure.

[Com_VC]

Yes, you're probably right about the waterpump not being so critical.
It would however put the pulleys slighly out of alignment and I would be checking the tolerance between the impeller and No.1 bore.

Having said that, and regarding the thermostat housings as well, these were good machined surfaces 30+ years ago, perhaps not so much now, and you are trying to seal hot water under pressure.

Hehe, don't think the .25mm (estimate) would make much difference, there is probably enough movement in the alternator bracket to cause some alignment issue. I will check if there is a tolerance issue with the bore though.

I have a new kilkenny casting thermostat housing, it's the later VK type though. I think I prefer the earlier ones.

Any idea if the earlier style housings are available in aluminium? I have a cast one here, it's quite heavy. Maybe there is aftermarket available? Where they available on the earlier red motors?

EIther way I have all the gaskets here and probably a few spares.

Thanks

[makka]

yes they do, i use some sort of black gasket cement on screw in studs and head bolts, (has dribbled all over the name so i cant tell you what its called lol)

Dribbly dark goo sounds like Permatex No. 3.
I usually use Loctite pipe sealant (567?) cos it lets you retorque without leaks but permatex etc. is fine too.

567 is the white stuff, we use it at work all the time, good stuff. the 577 is good too, dont think it would be needed on headbolts though

[TerrA LX]

Just thinking out loud here but if you used sealer everywhere and ran a composite head gasket it would make a hell of a path for the earth to travel thru for the cranking starter if you only had the one factory (underrated IMO) head bolt earth lead.

[Rockoz]

Terra. Reckon there would be enough continuity through the bolts for earthing.

Pretty sure the bolts will take the majority of the current in any case.

[EunUCh]

Check that the side plates are flat/square on another block,tap to flatten out high/low spots where needed.

Once done,stick cork gasket on covers with contact cement and maybe even a little #3 left to tack off on gasket face 

that touches the block,sounds like they may be warped a bit?..or not tightened up enough?