26 replies to this topic

[dattoman]

Where exactly do you want to hide it ?

Only place it can go is under the dash
Then you'll be hiding all the brake lines too I guess

[rexy]

There are plenty of boot booster installs when you visit the bigger shows. You can put the booster wherever it will fit but a boot set up allows for a larger size unit. Of course you will need custom new lines to make it all work.
My lj has an under guard set up and stops fine.
Go for it!

[dattoman]

He will need 2 if he goes remote hydropowers
One for front and one for rear

Hence I was thinking a cantilever setup under the dash
Or delete it altogether and use a swinging pedalbox design (probably not suited to his sliding calipers though)

[ls2lxhatch]

RRS do an underdash kit for the Mustang. They may have something suitable for the Torana.



Apparently Southern Chassis Works have a similar setup.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 15 February 2010 - 10:23 PM.

[dattoman]

What are you trying to achieve ?
Cause having remote boosters in the boot or under guard is going to mean plumbing spaghetti back and forth
The best way to keep it neat is under dash setup
Hotrod boys do it all the time
Similar to what Andy posted but not so ugly

[dattoman]

To run remotes you need to run a pipe from each port off the master to individual boosters
Then you need to pipe them to the wheels
You also have to run 2 vacuum supply lines to run the boosters
And the boosters have to be the correct sizes to give the right boost front and rear

Expensive and lots of plumbing just to hide something thats supposed to be on the firewall anyway and not in the way of anything

[Struggler]

so i couldnt just run one booster under the guard then?

If you have rear drums you could use the remote booster for the front only. If you have a disc rear you really need to run 2 remote boosters.

IMO this would be the best compromise. The cantilever set up that Datto talks about is a fair bit of work and personally I prefer the brake fluid in the engine bay.

[ls2lxhatch]

You are required to run independent front and rear hydraulic brake circuits. This means one remote booster for each circuit that requires boosting.

[Struggler]

You are required to run independent front and rear hydraulic brake circuits. This means one remote booster for each circuit that requires boosting.

Correct. If you have rear drums they will NOT require boosting so you can use just one booster.

[dattoman]

But he has disc brakes

So 2
and associated plumbing... yuck

[lakeside]

do you have to use 2 separate vacuum supplies for the boosters?

Edited by lakeside, 22 February 2010 - 06:28 PM.

[dattoman]

Only if you want them to work

You can use a T piece and split the hose if thats what you mean
But they both must have supply

[myss427]

I use to have twin remote boosters in the hatch area, but trying to run vacuume with a large cam was stupid. Had bugger all assistance. In the end went with no booster, just the same. Now converting back to booster in the engine bay sick of hard brake pedal.

[FastEHHolden]

A vacuum pump (or even a canister) wasn't contemplated?

[dattoman]

Diesel alternator with a vac pump on the back of it is probably the easiest way
But it will need a supply and return to sump

[ls2lxhatch]

SSBC ( and many others ) make electric vacuum pumps for the job.

http://www.summitrac...arts/SSB-28146/

[gtrboyy]

Are you legally allowed to run the brake lines inside of the car?

[dattoman]

Chrysler did on the old valiants

I've never seen it in writing you can't

[gtrboyy]

Cool,that is the way I want to do it on the lc.
I knew valiants had the lines inside the car after looking at my cousin's 71 vh charger.

Was thinking of running one vacuum line from inlet manifold to the boot then to a reserve tank with 2 hoses off that for the 2 remote boosters.