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My lowered spring dont look so low?


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#51 _BLACK DICE_

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 09:05 AM

Torryhead the front track is 1500mm and the back was 1455mm the wheels are 19x8 4 inch back space and 19x10 with 3 5/8 inches these were custom made. the front tyres are 215/35 and the back are 305/25 but i'm changing the back tyres to 305/30 because the tyre profile is to small at the moment, as for the springs they were all ready in the car when i bought it my guess is that they are superlows or six cylinder springs as i have only half inch of travel in the front thats way i have set my adjustable shocks to hard.

#52 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 11:41 AM

The Commodore studs are 12 x 1.5.

1/2" UNF studs are Ford.

#53 Torryhead

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 02:12 PM

yeah i know mate. different people supplied different parts for the car. the front hubs were supplied 1/2 inch UNF from UPC and the rear axles are 12 x 1.5 supplied from some Greek blokes in Syd somewhere.

i figured that if i had to change one i would go bigger so i was going to buy 1/2 inch for rear but last night i had all sorts of trouble getting my wheel nuts into my mates mag. he has 7/16 studs i think. i havent bought new studs yet for rear so i might go the 12mm on front instead.....

Black Dice, thanks for the info mate. man they are some big boots on the rear. i guess with the super lows you have to sacrifice travel and also have hard shocks. thats what i am trying to avoid. looking at the travel in my front end, i can afford to drop an inch and have a good ammount of travel left....... hopefully. whats you car like to drive, like a go cart or can you comfortably drive it all day??

Edited by Torryhead, 28 February 2010 - 02:21 PM.


#54 _evil UC hatch_

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 03:39 PM

as mentioned earlier you could use HQ stub axles, they will drop the front about 1 inch by themselves, you will just need to get another bracket for your callipers as the HQ stubs will hold the callipers out a little further using the bracket designed for the torana stubs, or if you wanted to drop it 2 inches you could get hold of a pair of CRS drop spindles and they should have the same mounting points for the brakes as the original stubs. using this method you will not have to get shorter springs and therefore your suspension travel will not be comprimised.

in my opinion King springs tend to be pretty firm, so using them on a Torana with a small sidewall tyre will result in a fairly harsh ride

#55 _BLACK DICE_

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 08:30 PM

Torryhead, I have only driven this car once that was the day I bought it. I drove it straight home put it up on stands and started pulling it apart, that was 4 years ago I almost finished now just got the interior and some other small things to finish off and than should be on the road, so as for ride quality I'm not to sure how its going to be but I am sure it's going to be hard. As for driving every day or on long trips I think it would start to get annoying, that's why it's built for weekends only.

#56 Torryhead

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 09:32 PM

hmmm, well mine is about to do 17,000km in 2 months so i may have a numb ass when i'm done hahaha. i will go as big a tirewall as i can fit without clearance issues but will work that out when the wheels turn up. thats providing they can supply in such a short time. if not i need to find a mag here in Aus and it will be a 17 inch. so if anyone knows of any good mag places, let me know. i read that Simmons have stoped production. the dream of the B-45's is shattered. anyone out there have any to suit my car????

hey just on the HQ stubs. will it change the geometry at all where it's not such a good idea cos i do have some HQ stubs and can have UPC provide the right adapter for the big brakes... also do i need to change steering arms???

#57 Torryhead

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:22 AM

ls2lxhatch dude i just checked out your website. holy S&#T you have done some research. you have just made my life so much easier. it looks like i will have to send my Torry to Perth for engineering so i'll def use the app sheets and check all the requirements before i do. i'll get the exhaust done there too. do you have a recommendations for where to go?? nice site man

Dan

#58 76lxhatch

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 06:18 AM

There are some geometry issues with HQ stubs, so you will definitely need to change the steering arms if you go this way, preferably A9X(style) or failing that UC. Check out this thread for full details: http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=14102

#59 Torryhead

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 11:43 PM

SO i'm still waiting for the lady to get back to me about these wheels and some other quotes from some others out there. has anyone had a look at all the gobble i wrote about my wheel order, dimensions and offsets etc etc???? does it look alright? also do you know of any good mag guys in Aus?????

#60 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 02:36 AM

If you want a show quality mandrel bent exhaust then I recommend Prestige Exhaust.

#61 76lxhatch

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 06:35 AM

has anyone had a look at all the gobble i wrote about my wheel order, dimensions and offsets etc etc???? does it look alright?

Had a quick look - you basically said front 7" wide with 5" backspace and rear 9" wide with 5.5" backspace. My thoughts:

The rears should fit OK, they would be tucked in about as far as they can go which might leave some excess space to the flare, but then that will help with clearance. Too big a tyre may get a bit close on the inside.

The fronts I'm not so sure about, seems like a lot of backspace on a 7" wheel. Obviously again you're looking for maximum clearance on the outside of the wheel but I suspect it could be very close to fouling on the inside. Someone else needs to comment here, probably more in the realm of the guys who use 7" wheels without flares.

#62 Torryhead

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 01:02 PM

i might have to revisit that one quickly before this order is approved, make sure that i have made the calcs right. my mates 17 inch fitted well but i could afford to come out about half an inch so thats what i did. making the calculations i had to assume my mates rim was 7 inch rim was 8 inches wide as rule of thumb suggests. your right though, it looks like a commodore rim on the car with little front lip.

i think i'm being conservative because i really want to make sure the wheel fits up under the guard in the event that i lower the big girl...... just enough to have the tire sit up under.....

also i have effectively brought the wheel out half an inch and his whell worked lock to lock so i think i'm fine, cheers man

Dan

#63 76lxhatch

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 01:12 PM

Yeah with the 18s you'll want to be conservative although tucking them under too far might look a bit strange. I guess the bigger the wheel diameter the less there is to foul on anyway with the control arm front suspension

#64 Torryhead

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 05:55 PM

i havent worked out to to paste straight onto this page so i'll stick with attachements. one last look at the wheels. i have had a play with this wheel calculator. last comments please. i have checked and double checked and i'm sure the calcs are right. for those of you that own big wheels or have mags on your torry's what do you think. i call the bird in the states tonight at 11pm WA time to pay for these things...... $$$$$

so let me know.

Dan

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#65 Torryhead

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 08:32 PM

actually i'm now thinking that i should have 225's on front and 275's on rear...

#66 _LH8VD69_

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 09:13 AM

Firstly Torryhead i think the way your torana sits atm is more like a 4wd i actually wondered if you even had an engine in the car. I think you should go for 15's or 16 's max as toranas including the very hot looking 'Black Dice' running these big wheels have to lower the car right down to the boards to get even a modest 'low' look and sacraficing ride. Even when these cars are dropped they aren't actually that low to the road. the reason i'm saying this is because i have done it many times myself and although i told myself it was ok to have it riding like a gocart crashing and bashing over bumps cause it was only my weekend cruiser the car does suffer on our less than quality built Aussie roads. Go for 15's or 16's , get close to the tarmac whilst having a quality ride and your beloved torana will thank you for years to come.Posted Image My opinion only of course.

#67 Torryhead

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 12:49 AM

Dude harsh words. i would settle for more like an AWD than a 4WD hahaha it is shitful how high it is. i agree with you mate and given the time again, i would go a nice set of 16's with a decent amount of rubber for a side wall. but as i didnt ask all you brillianttly opinionated torry owners out there prior i have kinda gone to far now and so will have to suck it up a little. the car needs to be on the road by the end of April so i have no time to source new brakes and wheels. i may change the setup later but i have been waiting 2 years to drive this car.

just on the springs. i still dont know WTF is going on. looking at the front of the car the wheels and pulling in signifigantly at the bottom. it starts to level out with about an extra 160 kg (2 mates) in the engine bay with the donk but i wont be adding anywhere near that much extra weight. and being that they should be lowered 30mm you would expect the adverse reaction. so while i wanted to use drop stubs to get a little lower without sacrificing suspension stiffness and travel. i still need to get the god damn wheels at the right camber!!!!!!!!!

What is going on!!!!!!!




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