21 replies to this topic

[fuzzypumper]

If fuel is in carby can you see it accelerator pump squirting to the venturi?

If you used vaso to get oil press up you may have impeded the canals(while cold) and lifters arent represurizing after bleed down.

You tested each plug is getting spark , but what colour was the spark?

[S pack]

I have pulled a working stock 202 engine out of my LH and have now put it all back in and i just cant get it too start. Looking for any other ideas you guys might have. I have spent too long trying and its driving me nuts lol

Has Fuel pressure and fuel in the carby
Has spark in all 6 cylinders and new plugs
Has oil and oil pressure... eventually (had to use vaseline) cranked without plugs for about a minute all up after i got pressure
Timing is on 0 degree on compression stroke (not 180 out)
No vacuum leaks

Its not even trying to fire at all


Is it possible that the lifters have bled down and valves arn't opening?
Possibly weak spark? (iv tried 2 coils)
Is it safe to try the coil from my uc Torana, Its an Electric ignition msd blater coil. Ok for points? Has 11.5V @ the coil in the lh

What am i doing wrong? haha

Any help is much appreciated

Try dumping about 10mls of fuel down the carby and see if you get some action.
I couldn't start a 253 recently that had been sitting for a while and wouldn't fire. I checked everything as you have done, even thought it may have flooded as could smell fuel vapour from the exhaust pipe. Finally checked and found the carby accelerator pump stroke plunger was not pumping properly (plunger washer dried out and shrank). Dropped 10mls fuel down its throat and instant mumbo. Had to repeat procedure a few times until I could get the engine to idle.
Cheers
Dave

[TerrA LX]

Yeah testing for good spark is easy, get another plug and fit one of the spark leads to it, earth the plug to the motor and crank away, should be a big bright blue spark, not a faint orange.

Second, as above, if you have spark then dribble some petrol down the carb and crank again.

[FastEHHolden]

Check your ballast resistor is hooked up...you have spark when cranking but it goes away when you release the key...check wiring at the positive side of the coil.

You say the spark is weak...points and condensor ok?

[TerrA LX]

Vaso will not block anything. FYI it is petroleum based.

[fuzzypumper]

It kind of sounded like it tried to start to run but the battery was too weak and its turned over quite slow. It also back fired out of the carby consistently each time I tried to fire her up. (what does backfiring through the carby mean) Im sure its on TDC on compression stroke and i put it on about 8degree advance.

Thanks for your help

If your getting a blueish spark , thats good.

However Ive always found back firing thru the carb is a result of incorrect timing or lifters not pumped valves dont open enough so too much
compression building in cylinders and cranks slow

[rodomo]

I reckon ignition timing.
I know you say you've checked it but maybe your balancer has slipped?
As you crank, turn the dissy clockwise and see if it starts to spin easier and maybe start to fire?

Edited by rodomo, 01 March 2010 - 08:07 PM.

[Heath]

It can also backfire through the carbie from just leaning out, my car used to do that when it was just sitting around not getting driven, but I would say it's probably timing at fault.

[rodomo]

Have a read here Nathan, post #59
http://www.gmh-toran...pic=12177&st=50

[S pack]

Hi Nathan
Still being a pain to start eh. Sounds like timing is out. Backfire through the carby is most likelya timing issue. Pull the rocker cover off and make sure the valves on No.6 are on the rock, and sight top of piston No.1 through spark plug hole with a torch to be sure of TDC. Another method is to insert a screwdriver into the spark plug hole and feel the piston reach TDC. This will confirm if your timing marks line up, if marks line up correct see if rotor button is lining up with post for lead No.1, if not remove dizzy and reset.
Should be a mark in the top rim of the distributor housing. Set your dizzy so the line on the top of the rotor button points to and lines up with that mark. Timing is now set to fire at TDC and the engine should start without backfire through the carby. After you get it running then you can advance the timing.

Cheers
Dave

[rodomo]

Pull the rocker cover off and make sure the valves on No.6 are on the rock

A quicker way of doing this that also saves a rocker cover gasket:
Remove the oil cap and sight the rocker forward of the hole.
This is No.1 inlet valve.
Rotate the crank clockwise and watch this valve open, then shut.
Still turning the crank clockwise, the next time the timing marks line up is N0.1 T.D.C (in the ballpark considering the balancer might have slipped) at which point you can use a probe or torch to check the piston position for balancer slip.

You can also check the key position at the harmonic balancer hub, it should be at 12 o'clock at T.D.C.
You might need a mirror.

Attached Files

•  TIMING MARKS.bmp   1.36MB   26 downloads

Edited by rodomo, 01 March 2010 - 11:48 PM.

[FastEHHolden]

Thats the way I do it....an EH has a cutout to slip a piece of wood thru behind the bumper (so you have to remove radiator and front bumper)...has the torry got a better setup than this?

If it were me, I would just use a paint pen to remark the balancer as per Rodomos diagram...that way you will be able to moniter if it is still slipping....if you felt super strongly about it...you can pull the outer ring off and put it back together in the right spot with a smear of silicon...you used to be able to rebuild by buying the rubber new.