Hi All
As the topic says I want to wire up my fuel pump, I have not done any wiring before so will need to know:
Where to connect main positive wire from relay and how thick it has to be?
And the other positive wire from relay should it go to a switch, ignition or fuse box?
Also will it need fuses? where and what size.
A diagram or any help will be appreciated.
Thanks Nick
Wiring fuel pump
Started by
_lostinspace_
, May 11 2010 07:39 PM
16 replies to this topic
#2
_cruiza_
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Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:28 PM
Hi check out a new thread I started in electrical section for wiring relays, in order to answer the rest of your questions I would need to know how many amps your fuel pumps draws? at a guess 2.5mm would be adaquate but that is a guess only, you may need 4mm
If you think about it you might as well be asking if a 9in diff would be strong enough without telling us if it is for a mini or a top fuel drag car
So what fuel pump how many amps does it draw and as for the rest of your question refer to my thread.
also while I have not added it my thread yet a specific wiring fuel pump diagram but realys are relays I would suggest you also look at a fuel shut off relay, this will kill the power to a electric fuel pump if the motor stalls, ie you crash, other wise in the event of a misshap it will keep on pumping fuel to the fire till you burn
If you think about it you might as well be asking if a 9in diff would be strong enough without telling us if it is for a mini or a top fuel drag car
So what fuel pump how many amps does it draw and as for the rest of your question refer to my thread.
also while I have not added it my thread yet a specific wiring fuel pump diagram but realys are relays I would suggest you also look at a fuel shut off relay, this will kill the power to a electric fuel pump if the motor stalls, ie you crash, other wise in the event of a misshap it will keep on pumping fuel to the fire till you burn
#3
_lostinspace_
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Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:53 PM
Thanks cruiza
I will have a look under the car to see if it has any of that information on the fuel pump and check out your thread.
Thanks Nick
I will have a look under the car to see if it has any of that information on the fuel pump and check out your thread.
Thanks Nick
#4
Lima31
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Posted 11 May 2010 - 09:54 PM
... I would suggest you also look at a fuel shut off relay, this will kill the power to a electric fuel pump if the motor stalls, ie you crash, other wise in the event of a misshap it will keep on pumping fuel to the fire till you burn
Mate are these sold online and if so, by what trade name? I don't want to try evilbay
#5
rodomo
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Posted 12 May 2010 - 12:02 AM
Found under the bonnet of most carburettored LPG systems too.
#6
_lostinspace_
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Posted 11 June 2010 - 08:53 AM
Anyone have a diagram on how to wire up the tachometric relay?
#7
_hutch_
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Posted 11 June 2010 - 09:09 PM
there are terminal markings on most of them,valve =goes to pump,coil =goes to neg side of the coil and i think the other one is +,i usually use a relay and a 15 amp inline fuse will be ok
Phillip
Phillip
#9
_SLR Goat_
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Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:58 PM
Also if u buy relays new the packet usually has a diagram on the back
#10
rodomo
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Posted 12 June 2010 - 07:08 AM
In the diagram, I have wired the red wire to the tachometric relay from the ignition switch and put a fuse in line.
You could wire this from the fused side of the ignition side (power only when ignition is on) of the fuse panel.
You might want to put a standard type relay in the blue wire as well depending on the amp draw of the pump and the length of the wiring?
Basically how the tachometric relay works is that it needs a pulse from the coil (just like your dash tacho does, hence the name) to close the relay. Then ignition power powers up your accessory. In this case a fuel pump.
Designed so there is no power to the accessory unless the engine is rotating.
So if you have a smash and the engine stops running, the pump/LPG/woteva turns off.
You could wire this from the fused side of the ignition side (power only when ignition is on) of the fuse panel.
You might want to put a standard type relay in the blue wire as well depending on the amp draw of the pump and the length of the wiring?
Basically how the tachometric relay works is that it needs a pulse from the coil (just like your dash tacho does, hence the name) to close the relay. Then ignition power powers up your accessory. In this case a fuel pump.
Designed so there is no power to the accessory unless the engine is rotating.
So if you have a smash and the engine stops running, the pump/LPG/woteva turns off.
Edited by rodomo, 12 June 2010 - 07:21 AM.
#11
rodomo
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Posted 12 June 2010 - 07:28 AM
Edit:
I have a Carmtrol relay here and it doesn't give an amp rating.
I have a Carmtrol relay here and it doesn't give an amp rating.
#12
_oldjohnno_
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Posted 12 June 2010 - 12:06 PM
Another simple way of preventing the pump running when the engine is stopped is to use an oil pressure switch. If your car has an oil pressure idiot light then you already have the switch.
There's no need to use an additional relay with this. Just connect the negative coil terminal of your fuel pump relay to the oil pressure switch instead of directly earthing it.
Edit: Rodomo, in the diagram above the current to drive the fuel pump still has to pass through the ignition switch. I'm not sure what their limit is, but I'm wary of putting too much load on the switch.
edit again: Oops, just re-read your earlier post and see that you've already addressed this. I'd definitely be using the relay with an independent feed..
There's no need to use an additional relay with this. Just connect the negative coil terminal of your fuel pump relay to the oil pressure switch instead of directly earthing it.
Edit: Rodomo, in the diagram above the current to drive the fuel pump still has to pass through the ignition switch. I'm not sure what their limit is, but I'm wary of putting too much load on the switch.
edit again: Oops, just re-read your earlier post and see that you've already addressed this. I'd definitely be using the relay with an independent feed..
Edited by oldjohnno, 12 June 2010 - 12:12 PM.
#13
_torbirdie_
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Posted 12 June 2010 - 01:53 PM
Another simple way of preventing the pump running when the engine is stopped is to use an oil pressure switch. If your car has an oil pressure idiot light then you already have the switch.
There's no need to use an additional relay with this. Just connect the negative coil terminal of your fuel pump relay to the oil pressure switch instead of directly earthing it.
Sure the oil pressure switch will function well as a safety switch, but in many installations it may make starting the car very difficult.
Many motors take 5-10 secs of cranking to get enough oil pressure to be able to switch the pump on, depending on the carby fuel system/float bowl, this could be a big problem. If the battery/starter isnt turning the motor fast enough, it may never power.
Yes, you could have an momentary overide switch to prime the pump with a guard over it, but that's adding extra complications.
The lpg style tachiometric relay works well. They give the valve/fuel pump ~2 seconds of power when you turn the key to on and if you have an unsuccessful start and you dont turn the ign back to off it keeps the valve/pump on for another second.
Some of the tachiometric relays also have a direct to battery terminal(B+) as well as the ignition terminal, so it can power the device its controlling without the current being drawn from the ignition supply.
Edited by torbirdie, 12 June 2010 - 01:58 PM.
#14
_oldjohnno_
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Posted 12 June 2010 - 03:49 PM
Sure the oil pressure switch will function well as a safety switch, but in many installations it may make starting the car very difficult.
Many motors take 5-10 secs of cranking to get enough oil pressure to be able to switch the pump on, depending on the carby fuel system/float bowl, this could be a big problem. If the battery/starter isnt turning the motor fast enough, it may never power.
Yes, you could have an momentary overide switch to prime the pump with a guard over it, but that's adding extra complications.
The lpg style tachiometric relay works well. They give the valve/fuel pump ~2 seconds of power when you turn the key to on and if you have an unsuccessful start and you dont turn the ign back to off it keeps the valve/pump on for another second.
Some of the tachiometric relays also have a direct to battery terminal(B+) as well as the ignition terminal, so it can power the device its controlling without the current being drawn from the ignition supply.
For sure, the tachiometric relay is the ideal setup. I drove a car with the oil pressure setup for 7 or 8 years and never had a problem. But I agree that if it was a car that sometimes sat unused for long periods (say several weeks) then the fuel bowls could dry up and it would be a problem to start.
#15
_lostinspace_
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Posted 12 June 2010 - 07:05 PM
Thanks for the diagram Rodomo that's what I was looking for.
I will buy the tachometric and as SLR Goat says it would have wiring instructions on the pack and hopefully the sales people can help with the wire sizes to suit my set up.
I like your idea Oldjohnno but motor has been sitting for over a year and it surely will take a bit to kick it over.
Thanks guys
I will buy the tachometric and as SLR Goat says it would have wiring instructions on the pack and hopefully the sales people can help with the wire sizes to suit my set up.
I like your idea Oldjohnno but motor has been sitting for over a year and it surely will take a bit to kick it over.
Thanks guys
#16
rodomo
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Posted 13 June 2010 - 01:39 PM
You might want to put a standard type relay in the blue wire as well depending on the amp draw of the pump and the length of the wiring?
No worries, did you read this bit as well?
#17
_lostinspace_
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Posted 13 June 2010 - 09:41 PM
yeh I did, that is why I will have to see what will suit my set up, I still have to decide where the battery is going, this will change things I suppose.
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