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Sump Removal

Started by _BCR42Y_ , Apr 19 2006 11:59 PM

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#1 _BCR42Y_

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Posted 19 April 2006 - 11:59 PM

Hey All,

Just finished getting the motor in the car, all the wiring, connected exhausts, everything.

Kicked it over for the first time and it started quite easily.

One major problem!

Somewhere between the engine stand ang getting the motor in the car, the sump must have been pushed in a bit towards the front of the engine.

Thus the drama begins!, i have just spend six months getting the money, time and countless sleepless nights to get the car together, and the biggest smile on my face was wiped off in seconds.

I do not have the energy to take the motor out and take the sump off, have any of you tried taking the sump out of an LH torrie with a 308 before whilst it was in the car? if so was it hard, is there any tricks i should know about?

My plan is to raise the car, put the stands under the body, take out the engine mounts, lift the engine from the front, and possibly drop the cross member a bit.

The other problem i can forsee is that the car has a high energy sump, making it extra bulkier!

Any tips?

Thanks Halil.

#2 rodomo

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Posted 20 April 2006 - 12:20 AM

:cry:

#3 FastEHHolden

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Posted 20 April 2006 - 01:44 AM

had to do that in mine. Its not that hard an option

#4 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 20 April 2006 - 09:15 AM

Good luck to you my good sir! I wouldnt waste my time doing it while in the car still... Get your engine crane and at least lift the engine so that the sump clears the crossmember! That means you dont have to rip absolutely everything off the motor, and you still have some room to work on the sump.

Keith

#5 _MAWLER_

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Posted 20 April 2006 - 10:01 AM

Mate if you are able to do it without taking the motor out then I would love to know how you do it. My sump is leaking at the moment and I will need to do the exact same thing in the next few weeks and I am dreading it. All that work just to change a bloody gasket.

#6 FastEHHolden

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Posted 20 April 2006 - 10:42 AM

Unfortunately for me the only way I can get my engine out is to drop the front cross member out due to the shape of the sump (HE sump).

I had to repair my sump after some wankers at work moved my car on a jack while I was away and it fell off the jack...I just made a brace that stretched across the engine bay and hooked the engine onto it leaving the engine hanging in mid air while the front end is out.

#7 _BCR42Y_

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Posted 20 April 2006 - 04:05 PM

I am definetely going to lift the engine, i was thinking to lift it from the front and drop the cross member just a bit, its a tight sqeeze in there!

#8 LX2DR

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Posted 20 April 2006 - 10:31 PM

Haven't had to do the sump gasket in the car, yet! but,
When i changed my front end, i put a saw horse (Carpenters saw horse) in the engine bay removed the engine mounting bolts, jacked the engine up and used a thick/heavy duty ratchet strap to hold the engine up.
Put the car on stands, undid the calipers and hung them out of the way, removed the front end.
Their was heaps of room around the sump & would definately do the same if i had to change just the sump gasket or rear main seal.
The more room you make for yourself the easier it will be and more likely to get it right 1st time.

Edited by SPJ, 20 April 2006 - 10:39 PM.

#9 _MAWLER_

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Posted 21 April 2006 - 09:08 AM

I've got a HE sump as well, are you saying that I won't be able to get the motor out without dropping the front end as well?! It was in the car when I bought it and I've never handled one before so don't know how difficult it might be.

Cheers,

#10 FastEHHolden

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Posted 21 April 2006 - 12:08 PM

mine also is an opel front end with a turbo 350 behind a red 6...bit squeezy

#11 _BCR42Y_

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Posted 21 April 2006 - 06:38 PM

The back part of the sump is so bulky, getting it our was a pain, as was getting it back in, then putting the xtractors on was a nightmare!

I was even contemplating getting a standard sump at one stage.

I am going to make a start on it tomorrow, will keep you guys posted!

#12 _BCR42Y_

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Posted 23 April 2006 - 08:41 PM

Hey All,

What a weekend, got the sump out, but let me tell you not without its hassles!

My crossmember had to come out, to get the calipers free, had to take the lines off, resulting in brake fluid everywhere!

Anyway, once the crossmember was out, i could to an engine rebuild with that much room!

If anyone is contemplating it, all i can say is make sure you have plenty of room to work with around the car, make sure the car is lifted quite high, and if possible dont rely on the engine crance to fold the engine up, cause it is hard to get the cross member out with it there.

Last tip, but some superglue to gold the gasket in place when you go to put the sump on.

#13 _motive_

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Posted 24 April 2006 - 08:10 PM

To SPJ

Am I correct in assuming the horse goes under the engine and takes the weight of it...?

How high was the car?

What are the engine cranes worth?

Ive gotta do a sump change and rear main myself.

#14 _motive_

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Posted 24 April 2006 - 09:45 PM

In addition to above post...

My metal brake lines on the booster side go over the rocker covers by a fair bit. Does any one know where I can get metal brake lines made up?

so that they bend and dont go over the rockers. It will cause a problem when I raise the engine.

Anyone else have this problem

#15 LX2DR

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Posted 25 April 2006 - 12:10 AM

To SPJ

Am I correct in assuming the horse goes under the engine and takes the weight of it...?

How high was the car?

What are the engine cranes worth?

Ive gotta do a sump change and rear main myself.

The legs stradled the engine/bay over the engine & the feet were on the top of the chassis.
Their was nothing under the car except the front end. (& me) :D
It was way up on the stands, i could comfortably sit under the car.
I had the back wheels on my ramps as well. (Almost level, bit higher at the front)
I changed the front ends over on my own in about 4 - 5 hours.
Tomorrow i will put the saw horse in the engine bay and take a photo for you.
A normal saw horse may not fit over a V8, but it wouldn't be hard to make or adapt.
P.S. i didn't lift the engine with horse, i jacked it up and secured it clear of the front end with the saw horse and ratchet strap.

Engine cranes cost heaps, saw horse pretty cheap & you can use it for house reno's after! :rockon:

Edited by SPJ, 25 April 2006 - 12:11 AM.

#16 _BCR42Y_

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Posted 25 April 2006 - 07:52 PM

I bought my engine crane for $300 from Repco, got it half price, that was a week and a half ago, theymight still have them on sale.

It is only a baby crane i.e. One Tonne, but i wont be lifiting cars with it.

It does get in the way though, when you are trying to take the crossmember out.

#17 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 25 April 2006 - 07:57 PM

There's a place in Bayswater selling 1 tonne engine cranes for $259. That's their normal price.

#18 LX2DR

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 12:09 AM

To SPJ

Am I correct in assuming the horse goes under the engine and takes the weight of it...?

How high was the car?

What are the engine cranes worth?

Ive gotta do a sump change and rear main myself.

The legs stradled the engine/bay over the engine & the feet were on the top of the chassis.
Their was nothing under the car except the front end. (& me) :D
It was way up on the stands, i could comfortably sit under the car.
I had the back wheels on my ramps as well. (Almost level, bit higher at the front)
I changed the front ends over on my own in about 4 - 5 hours.
Tomorrow i will put the saw horse in the engine bay and take a photo for you.
A normal saw horse may not fit over a V8, but it wouldn't be hard to make or adapt.
P.S. i didn't lift the engine with horse, i jacked it up and secured it clear of the front end with the saw horse and ratchet strap.

Engine cranes cost heaps, saw horse pretty cheap & you can use it for house reno's after! :rockon:

Here's the photo.
I will admit i held up the engine by putting the ratchet strap around the sump, but it will only mean attaching the straps to the engine mounts to work on the sump.
Posted Image
Clicking the image will take you to a full size pic.

#19 _motive_

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 09:54 AM

Thanks for that.
I have the bonnet off so I will invest in an engine crane as well.

Where do u get a suitable heavy duty ratchet strap from>?

#20 _TORANR AMORE_

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 07:53 PM

Whatever you choose to do, be careful you don't bash the dizzy against the firewall, or you'll bend it.
You're best to take it out.

#21 _[2_FLY]_

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 08:45 PM

I made that mistake too and cracked my brand new MSD cap requiring a 60 dollar replacement. Might be worthwhile marking it and putting it back later

#22 LX2DR

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 11:51 PM

Thanks for that.
I have the bonnet off so I will invest in an engine crane as well.

Where do u get a suitable heavy duty ratchet strap from>?

The ratchet strap i used was a single good quality strap, but i was only hanging onto a 6 cyl! and not working on the engine, as i also said i did not lift the engine with the strap, i jacked the engine up just clear of the front end and suspended the engine on it with the strap around the sump. (You dont have to lift it that high)
Thinking now, if i wanted to work on the sump i would use 2 straps, 1 on either side, this would be even safer.
Hook 1 end to an engine mount (around a manifold on a V8?), over the horse & back to the same engine mount.
Most auto suppliers sell crappy and good quality straps.
Hey you could also use chains? might be a little harder to adjust but very safe.
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