just wondering if any one onhere runs a 383 holden
was always planing on a 355 but after going for a spin in afew hot cars and a good friend of mine cranking up the pace in his vh im starting to consider a 383 stroker holden
ive never heard alot about them so can some one shed some light on what the reliabiltiy is like are they likely to trow rods or have they got it down pat and ya crazy for not forkin out the extra few clams to gain more cubes
383 holden reliable or hand grenade?
Started by
mr5000
, May 29 2010 06:04 PM
26 replies to this topic
#1
mr5000
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 06:04 PM
#2
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 07:10 PM
I havnt looked into it, but i would think the rod ratio would be getting awefully short by 383....
And i believe C.O.M.E are the only people that make that (correct me if im wrong as i prolly am), i have heard a few stories about them....
Cheers.
And i believe C.O.M.E are the only people that make that (correct me if im wrong as i prolly am), i have heard a few stories about them....
Cheers.
#3
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 07:20 PM
prostroke do them aswell
#4
_Kush_
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 07:49 PM
What would be a reasonable price for a Holden 383?
#5
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 07:52 PM
Pro stroke i have heard better things about than the other mob.
Work out the Rod ratio then go from there....Also seeing though you have to notch the block (unless its late model) for a 355 to clear the rod bolts makes me wonder how small the little end would be on the 383 kit to fit inside the engine....
Cheers.
Work out the Rod ratio then go from there....Also seeing though you have to notch the block (unless its late model) for a 355 to clear the rod bolts makes me wonder how small the little end would be on the 383 kit to fit inside the engine....
Cheers.
#6
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 08:09 PM
Bomber, are you sure you're not confusing prostroke with procomp? I've read enough forums to know to stay well away from procomp.
#7
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 08:11 PM
pro stroke is a pretty reputable shop in heathcote formerly in ferntree gully pro comp is some sydney wanker
#8
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 08:31 PM
From what I understand, procomp parts are so cheap because they are Chinese knock-offs.
#9
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 09:03 PM
Just spend more $$ on the 355 to make it boogie!
#10
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 09:24 PM
Sorry guys my reply was a bit vague, Pro Stroke is all good from what i have heard, was saying i have heard a lot more good things about them than the other company i mentioned.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#11
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Posted 29 May 2010 - 10:23 PM
Oh, ok. That makes sense. COME seem to be very overpriced in my opinion.
#12
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Posted 30 May 2010 - 12:39 AM
Not just overpriced hehehe.
#13
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Posted 30 May 2010 - 12:20 PM
my mate has built a 383 holden and is on his 3rd rebuild first it cracked a piston then i threw a leg out of bed in a burnout comp got it all going again this time he hasnt had any probs luckily, it has come alloys come ttb manifold big solid cam
#14
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Posted 30 May 2010 - 11:33 PM
Ive flogged the crap out of a 383 holden for the last 10 years over 80,000km and it hasnt missed a beat. Hasnt lost a traffic light derby in that time either.
#15
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Posted 31 May 2010 - 08:09 AM
mate has a 383 that turns to 8200rpm.3 year old engine now.never had a problem.
any motor is only as good as the guy doing it
any motor is only as good as the guy doing it
#16
Evan
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Posted 31 May 2010 - 02:21 PM
Rexy and moot. Do you know which company the stroker kits were purchased from?
Cheers
Evan.
Cheers
Evan.
#17
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Posted 31 May 2010 - 05:45 PM
yeah id love to no if it was a work shop specifically for strokers ie pro stroke or if you just threw handfuls at some one like haddad
#18
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Posted 31 May 2010 - 06:36 PM
the crank was a come one,rods were manley promod i beams,pistons were cp's.made 620hp on pump fuel
#19
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Posted 31 May 2010 - 07:11 PM
From what i've been told by people in the know for the most part the engine block is the weak link in a 383. Because the already thin cylinder wall bases have to be relieved even more so for a 383 crank/rod combination than what is needed for a 355, if the engine block isn't up to scratch, then problems such as split/cracked bores etc can arise. 304/308s were a massed produced engine & the factory tolerances weren't very consistant or exact. Cylinder wall thickness can vary from engine to engine, the cranks can be off centre from cylinder bank to cylinder bank etc. Later model Commodore blocks are alot better than the earlier ones but were still far from perfect. Also, with any engine, the more you work it, the higher the stress load you put on it. A spasticly worked stock stoke 308 with high comp & high lift solid cam can be potentialy more of a ticking time bomb than a mild 383 with hydraulic cam. Sonic crack testing on the engine block is good insurance & can identify potential weakness, but as has already been stated, with any engine build alot comes down to the person building it.
#20
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Posted 31 May 2010 - 07:28 PM
It is all well and good to say that it is only as good as the guy building it but at the end of the day you cant escape the physics. Fact is a longer stroke will place a greater side load on the bore wall and more cubic inches require more CFM so you will need serious heads or you will risk choking the engine. You will also need to externally balance the rotating assembly and you will need to grind clearance for the rods which may well put you into the water jacket.
The same laws of physics also say you will make more torque and have better cylinder filling.
Building a 383 requires more work than a 355 but in some applications it is well worth it. Most problems can be fixed with cubic dollars.
Personally I prefer the 355, its just easier.
JMHO
The same laws of physics also say you will make more torque and have better cylinder filling.
Building a 383 requires more work than a 355 but in some applications it is well worth it. Most problems can be fixed with cubic dollars.
Personally I prefer the 355, its just easier.
JMHO
#21
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Posted 01 June 2010 - 07:52 AM
i would just build a 355 again too.but there is nothing wrong with a 383 if done correctly,people just have to realise the crank isnt the only extra expense
#22
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Posted 01 June 2010 - 04:59 PM
i understand the crank is not the only extra expense i have a vn injected block that will be getting the stoker about a year ago i was in heathcote on work and went into pro stroke the guy there was a top guy and askied if i wanted to come out the back and have a look at there machinery showed me how they sonic test the blocks told me best to go for was a black 308 injected block
just started considering the 383 as its something a lil diffrent also after going for a spin in some 383 chevs
it will have vn heads with all the bells and whistles just seems like ya have to no what ya doing to build a 383 not just any monkey can slap it together
just started considering the 383 as its something a lil diffrent also after going for a spin in some 383 chevs
it will have vn heads with all the bells and whistles just seems like ya have to no what ya doing to build a 383 not just any monkey can slap it together
#23
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Posted 01 June 2010 - 07:37 PM
As per response in the other thread - people have made ridiculous power out of TT383 holdens without them falling apart. Dominated at summernats for a long time. Im sure a street version for you will hang together just fine. Just dont let your buddy or cousin slap it together!!!(unless of course his name is Shane Cable)
#24
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Posted 01 June 2010 - 08:05 PM
haha nah ive only built one bottom end and thats the 308 in the torry now if i was lashing out the big bucks id pay some one like pro stroke who does this stuff day in day out
#25
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Posted 04 September 2016 - 05:55 PM
I've just pulled a 383 apart for a freshen up. Scary to say the least. Rod ratio 1.52:1 . Crank hitting the main web. Std Main bolts. Mexican (literaly) cast pistons, weird looking conrods , COME crank- not a lot of evidence of balancing, i will have to run up the assembly in the balincing machine to check.King bearings- not the high performance ones. Sump has half the bolts missing as the pan rail area has been welded up in places so that clearencing for the rods could happen. Seems like a lot of work and a lot of stress on the block for what gain (above a 355) i'm not sure.
Anyone got anything I should be aware of with a 383?
Cheers
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