i have attach some pictures to show the parts that i carnt get apart.
Also where would i be able to find the rubber sockets that u pump grease into as mine has a split in it
Thanks guys
Re-Building front end
Started by
_marshallLX_
, Jun 02 2010 08:28 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
_marshallLX_
_marshallLX_
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Posted 02 June 2010 - 08:28 PM
Hey guys im pulling apart my front end but im having problems with trying to get it apart to clean and paint
i have attach some pictures to show the parts that i carnt get apart.
Also where would i be able to find the rubber sockets that u pump grease into as mine has a split in it
Thanks guys
i have attach some pictures to show the parts that i carnt get apart.
Also where would i be able to find the rubber sockets that u pump grease into as mine has a split in it
Thanks guys
#3
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 02 June 2010 - 08:55 PM
You can buy a ball joint separator from REPCO or Autobarn. Something like this. The gap in the fork of the separator I bought was not wide enough for the Torana ball joint so I had to file a couple of mm off the fork.
There is also this style which I have not used.
There is also this style which I have not used.
#4
_Viper_
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Posted 02 June 2010 - 09:00 PM
The top style pictured works awesome 
Stick it in, do up the bolt quite firm then give the top of the bolt a firm tap with a hammer and the balljoint so pop open... oh and leave the nut on threaded just level with the top so you dont damage the threads
Stick it in, do up the bolt quite firm then give the top of the bolt a firm tap with a hammer and the balljoint so pop open... oh and leave the nut on threaded just level with the top so you dont damage the threads
#5
_Quagmire_
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Posted 02 June 2010 - 09:13 PM
i've used the bottom type
tends to kill the ball joints but will do the job if your replacing em anyway
or you could try two fb hammers
one placed against the ball joint the other wacking the top or bottom (depending which one your removing)
i've used the bottom type
tends to kill the ball joints but will do the job if your replacing em anyway
or you could try two fb hammers
one placed against the ball joint the other wacking the top or bottom (depending which one your removing)
tends to kill the ball joints but will do the job if your replacing em anyway
or you could try two fb hammers
one placed against the ball joint the other wacking the top or bottom (depending which one your removing)
i've used the bottom type
tends to kill the ball joints but will do the job if your replacing em anyway
or you could try two fb hammers
one placed against the ball joint the other wacking the top or bottom (depending which one your removing)
#6
View GaragePosted 02 June 2010 - 09:30 PM
The forks work OK on small ball joints if you have a big hammer, but can be hard work - I'd go for the screw type in preference. For future reference you should have popped the ball joints before releasing the spring - a good rap on the side of the knuckle where the taper is will pop them straight out.
#7
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 02 June 2010 - 10:42 PM
The forks work OK on small ball joints if you have a big hammer, but can be hard work - I'd go for the screw type in preference. For future reference you should have popped the ball joints before releasing the spring - a good rap on the side of the knuckle where the taper is will pop them straight out.
ive been doing suspension work for a billion years now (so it seems) and this is the way i separate 99.99 per cent of ball joints and tie rod ends . much care should be taken where ever you are working with coil springs under pressure . i know of a bloke who had his face smashed in by a falcon spring when it decided to let go.
#8
_glenn l_
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Posted 03 June 2010 - 09:09 AM
yeah just a hammer, you dont need all the fancey stuff.
#9
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 03 June 2010 - 11:12 AM
A hammer will work in most cases however I have come across cars where the some clown has overnighted the ball joints and they are almost impossible to remove.
The clamp style ball joint remover makes the job easier and there is less chance of damage. I have also see cars that look like a blind man with a hammer has been working on the suspension.
The clamp style ball joint remover makes the job easier and there is less chance of damage. I have also see cars that look like a blind man with a hammer has been working on the suspension.
#10
_CraigA_
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Posted 03 June 2010 - 11:50 AM
I pull the shock out and use a threaded rod, two nuts and two flat washers to hold the upper and lower A arms in position. Cheap and easy to get at Bunnings.
Spray the tapered area of the ball joints with WD-40 or similar and leave them overnight. Back off the threaded rod so the ball joints are under tension, loosen the nuts so there are a few threads remaining and give it a tap on the top - if it doesn't come then tap around the side of the arm where the ball joint goes through. Might need the FB hammer if they are really stuck but generally the WD helps them along their way.
Once the ball joint cracks you can back off the threaded rod slowly so you can control the release of the spring pressure.
I also use the threaded rod when I refit everything. Safe, easy, and you don't get hit in the face by a flying spring!!!
You also don't scratch any new paint you've put on the freshly detailed front end.
See. It works
Spray the tapered area of the ball joints with WD-40 or similar and leave them overnight. Back off the threaded rod so the ball joints are under tension, loosen the nuts so there are a few threads remaining and give it a tap on the top - if it doesn't come then tap around the side of the arm where the ball joint goes through. Might need the FB hammer if they are really stuck but generally the WD helps them along their way.
Once the ball joint cracks you can back off the threaded rod slowly so you can control the release of the spring pressure.
I also use the threaded rod when I refit everything. Safe, easy, and you don't get hit in the face by a flying spring!!!
You also don't scratch any new paint you've put on the freshly detailed front end.
See. It works
Edited by CraigA, 03 June 2010 - 11:50 AM.
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