I need help choosing a brake upgrade for my LH 6 cylinder. My project has been going flat out for the last 9 months and thank god she's nearly finished. I went to throw all the brake lines in today (+ master, booster, distributor and all that stuff), when dad got me a little paranoid about contaminants getting in the system. He said the best way would be to strip it all, clean it and rekit it, which really was like a punch in the face to me. I just want her to get back on the road, unno?
Anyway, my point is if I am gonna do all that shit well I might aswell upgrade to a V8 master cylinder or something? Whats the deal, do they give a bit more oomfph? What do you have to get exhanged? The master cylinder? Anything else? What sort of work is involved? Or should I just keep to the six brake setup?
I'm not really looking for race setup or spending millions, just want her to stop in time behind larger, heavier stationary items. And kiddies for that matter... cats too. OK maybe not cats. Gone too far?
(I've got drummies on the back, LX-UC U shape disks on the front. Feedback anyone?)
Need help upgrading brakes
Started by
_Eddie_
, Apr 30 2006 02:48 AM
11 replies to this topic
#2
dattoman
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Posted 30 April 2006 - 04:48 PM
V8 and 6 share the same master cylinder
Rebuilt it now rather than later when your relying on the car being there when you need it
Rebuilt it now rather than later when your relying on the car being there when you need it
#3
_Eddie_
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Posted 30 April 2006 - 08:19 PM
What would be the best thing to do? Get someone to rebuild it, or buy an already reconditioned one? What would it cost to get someone to rekit it? And would anything else be worth while inspecting while I'm in the process? Booster?
Are there any tips or improvements I could modify in the system for extra performance? For instance, some improvements that may be needed if I ever decide to go for hopper stoppers or something like them, in future?
I thought V8's and 6's differed somehow in their brake setups?
Sorry for being a little novice here
Are there any tips or improvements I could modify in the system for extra performance? For instance, some improvements that may be needed if I ever decide to go for hopper stoppers or something like them, in future?
I thought V8's and 6's differed somehow in their brake setups?
Sorry for being a little novice here
#4
surfmaster
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Posted 30 April 2006 - 09:58 PM
If you have some mechanical know how and are confident in your ability it is not that hard to overhaul a master cylinder. If you are not sure get a reco or get someone who knows to do it for you. On that subject you should be ensuring that the calipers on the front are not seized, (i would replace or overhaul the rear wheel cylinders), and then completely flush out the system with NEW brake fluid to ensure that there are no contaminants or old fluid left in any of the parts.
It is pointless spending time and money on any car and then being let down by sub-standard anchors. It may take a little more time and $$$ but its worth doing right.
It is pointless spending time and money on any car and then being let down by sub-standard anchors. It may take a little more time and $$$ but its worth doing right.
#5
makka
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 12:18 PM
it cost me $130 for a new m/c, the rebuild kits were around $110, why bother? and it will still look shitty and old, where as a new one looks nice and has a warranty!
#6
knoath
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far.... FAR
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 12:26 PM
And a caliper rebuild kit cost about $10, you just need access to a compressor and air line to punch out the pistons. Hey, even I can do it! And that's saying something!
Hey makka, how much were your new lines to get bent up?
Agree about m/c.... I bought a new one from repco for about $110....
Hey makka, how much were your new lines to get bent up?
Agree about m/c.... I bought a new one from repco for about $110....
#7
makka
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 02:15 PM
I bent up some old lines I had at home to the shape I wanted then took them to the local brake shop and got them to bend some new ones up with new fittings. cost around $50 from memory.
#8
_Eddie_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 03:35 PM
Yeah I see you point about the master cyl, for that money why would you bother buying a reco'd one? Front discs are good, I got the LX-UC U shaped looking ones and rekitted piston cylinders thingys and new pads. It was pretty easy and I'm still alive so they've worked...
I'm a bit suss on the rear drums, they've always locked up excessively under heavy brakes. I don't think they are distributing force evenly. Never been able to work em out. I just sit far back in traffic and be extra careful in the wet. (Down hill on wet greasy Qld roads = recipe for castrophy)
Other than that the threads on the metal brake lines in the engine bay are stripped and need vice grips to remove. I'm not sure if theres enough slack for reflaring and new nuts - can you still buy these metal lines or are they gonners?
EDIT: Ok makka I see you can just get it done at the brake shop. Sweet ,thanks
I'm a bit suss on the rear drums, they've always locked up excessively under heavy brakes. I don't think they are distributing force evenly. Never been able to work em out. I just sit far back in traffic and be extra careful in the wet. (Down hill on wet greasy Qld roads = recipe for castrophy)
Other than that the threads on the metal brake lines in the engine bay are stripped and need vice grips to remove. I'm not sure if theres enough slack for reflaring and new nuts - can you still buy these metal lines or are they gonners?
EDIT: Ok makka I see you can just get it done at the brake shop. Sweet ,thanks
Edited by Eddie, 01 May 2006 - 03:41 PM.
#9
_Eddie_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 03:36 PM
Is it easy to replace the rear wheel cylinders? Could they be the problem with the rear wheels locking up easily? Or is that just a standard feature of the Holden Torana?
EDIT: Had to fix up me bad grammarer up there ^
EDIT: Had to fix up me bad grammarer up there ^
Edited by Eddie, 01 May 2006 - 03:38 PM.
#10
_Eddie_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 04:26 PM
One last question I have is, with the master cylinders for LH's, I know dattoman's told me the 6 n V8 are the same but are there any other alternatives, as in other master cylinders from different model cars that are actually adaptable and provide a better performance? For example, say using a master cylinder and booster from a HZ or HQ, which I assume being a heavier vehicle would have a better system? Or does the master cylinder play a less vital role in the cars braking and does it come more down to calipers used and the disc rotors?
#11
makka
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 04:31 PM
the m/c is the same for a LH/X and kingswoods up to (but not including) WB. you cant fit the booster of a kingswood in a torana, the diametre is too big, you can use a boosted off a V8 torana, they are longer. but I have found that mine stops well without a V8 booster. it has 4 wheel discs though.
#12
_Eddie_
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Posted 01 May 2006 - 04:43 PM
Aaah ok thanks makka, so they're all the same except for the booster on the V8's. I see. So it really more comes down to the calipers...
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