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Best way to clean metal before body filler.

Started by _ULTRA BLUE_ , Oct 17 2010 02:06 PM

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6 replies to this topic

#1 _ULTRA BLUE_

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 02:06 PM

I have been doing some rust repairs in my engine bay ,and there is some surface rust
starting to build up in some of the welds and small gaps after after being left for a few weeks,
Is there a metal cleaner or rust converter that can be used before applying body filler.I have cleaned
up the metal as best i can but it doesnt seem right to go and bog over when you can see small amounts of
rust in tiny gaps., any help would be appreciated.
cheers Dan

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#2 S pack

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Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 17 October 2010 - 02:52 PM

I have been doing some rust repairs in my engine bay ,and there is some surface rust
starting to build up in some of the welds and small gaps after after being left for a few weeks,
Is there a metal cleaner or rust converter that can be used before applying body filler.I have cleaned
up the metal as best i can but it doesnt seem right to go and bog over when you can see small amounts of
rust in tiny gaps., any help would be appreciated.
cheers Dan

G/day Dan

Get hold of a Phosphoric Acid based metal prep solution for removing surface rust. Any automotive paint shop should have it. Also before applying body filler the metal should be lightly roughed up with a 60 grit sanding disc to give the bog some tooth.

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#3 _2DR_

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 02:55 PM

rust convert it from malz or super cheap

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#4 _dirtbag_

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 03:07 PM

I use rust converter, then when it's dry give it a quick dry sand with 80 - 120 then etch prime it. I then do the bodywork over the etch primer so there's not any big bare metal areas. Most plastic fillers these days bond better to paint than metal anyway.

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#5 limo

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 07:19 PM

I had my local paint shop guy that does my work cars get me some phosphoric acid, K&H product. It leaves a white film on the surface and directions say paint within 30 mins after drying, I used heat gun and etch primer.
I have used the auto shop stuff before but it left a black coating so not sure it is the same stuff

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#6 _Quagmire_

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 10:06 PM

sounds like "furtan" limo
ranex or septone are all right and cheap
(malz/bunnings and auto one sell them supa crap sells the ranex i think)
just don't get any on your bare skin it hurts like hell
i use a cut coke can and a paint bust to apply them

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#7 _abtorana_

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 09:45 AM

gday

i have been using the 3M rust converter and works a treat.
brush on. let it etch in for 15mins,wipe over with rag dampened with metho.
couple of pics of a boot and guard that have been sitting bare for couple of months
after being treated.

hope this helps
p.s got it from supercheap