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Selecting a Cam


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#1 superfly_GTR

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 07:21 PM

Im looking at fitting a new cam in my worked 186 to boost power and make it pull harder through the rev range, at the moment I am running a 30/70 crow cam with 280/290 IN./EX. duration and .440"/.465" valve lift with an effective power range of 2200-5200.

Im looking at maybe a 40/80 crow cam with 300/300 duration and .450"/.450" valve lift and a pwer range of 3500-6800. But then i get worried because apart from valve timing (40/80) the specs dont seem much bigger than mine, and with the crow cam list if you go lower in the valve timing you sometimes get more valve lift and/or duration and maybe go higher in the valve timing and sometimes get less valve lift and/or duration.

What i want to know is what combinations do what, what goes good with what and so on. Im just trying to get my head around cam specs.

The car is street driven daily but no real traffic work its either open HWY or residential streets but I am looking at getting into some track work, hillclimbs, sprints, motokhanas and the like.

My engine specs are 186 + .040" Fully balanced and decked with flat top pistons, Shaved Yella Terra stg 3 open chamber head running 9.5:1 comp, electronic ignition, extractors, and a 390 4bbl holley (thinking about 1 3/4" SU's)

And I am looking at the Crow range of Hydraulic camshafts

http://www.crowcams....e-Holden6.shtml

Thankyou, and all help and knowledge will be appreciated. Matt

#2 _Torana308_

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 07:52 PM

My old cam in my 6 cyl was 44/81 heatseaker. With 10:1 comp, yella terra head roller rockers tripple webbers and a saginaw 4sp manual i wouldnt like to drive that every day at all. When it doesnt come onto power till 3500 rpm id say youd need to look at diff gears and driveline upgrades. Have you looked at what rpm range you use at the moment? Maybe you can do things that improve torque to help it along.( bump compression and get the head breathing well) and maybe look at something like a 35/75 cam.

#3 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 02:19 AM

I'd be inclined to lean towards the 35672... Although it would be handy to know what diff gears you are running.

#4 _LJ308injected_

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 10:21 AM

A mate of mine has a injected 202 and on the dyno made 273hp at flywheel with 9.5.1 comp and was a total dog to drive then pulled the motor back down and went to 10.8.1 and back to the dyno instant gain went 336hp. So what i am saying is be carefull as there is always a thing as too big when only running 9.5.1 comp as thats not that high.

regards: Steve

#5 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 09:02 PM

336hp? Out of a 202 with 10.5:1 comp? :blink:

I'd be very interested to see that combo.

Edited by [BOTTLEDUP], 04 May 2006 - 09:02 PM.


#6 _LJ308injected_

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 10:27 PM

"Bottled up" 10.8.1 comp twin throttle bodies roller cam counter weight crank it is a big dollar engine but yes it is amazing 336hp out of a six .
Im not a big fan of the six's although one of the only six's that has amazed me and the quickest revving engine i have seen.

Regards: Steve

#7 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 11:17 PM

Ahhh roller cam and the like... I gets you.

Agree that would be a $$$$ combo, and rather intensive on the maintenance

#8 superfly_GTR

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 12:35 AM

what im wanting to know is what is better high lift and short duration, or low lift and long duration or a bit of both and what each combo does, also what does the valve timing spec do? ie: differance between 30/70 and 40/80 also what is better combo for inlet an exhaust because i noticed most have different specs for both. I am running 3.08 diff gears with an M20 but was thinking of going to 3.36 if mine kicks the bucket.

Cheers Matt

#9 Tiny

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 10:27 AM

Actually.. Thats a pretty good question matt.

Ive seen this covered in a few magazines in depth, but i wonder if we have any members on here who may like to put together a tech article on what is a cam, how do they work, and what do all these funky numbers MEAN...

I used to have a reasonable grasp of the works of cams, but to be hinest.. ive forgotten it all!

If anyone's got the info, or maybe i'll look into the magazine articles ive kept and try and post them up for more people to see and learn about cams.

Cheers!

#10 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 10:34 AM

I'm unsure as to lift/duration combos that make bigger power, but i can tell you that my 179HP (bored to 186) makes 101.3rwkW @ 5800rpm with a Dynotec XU-1 cam (stage II). I have 3.08:1 single spinner salisbury with a 4speed manual and various other engine work (the usual stuff) and ive done 14.8 @ 95mph...

Mine is a city happy combination, and very highway compatible (try 8.5l/100km @ 120km/h average) as ive just driven Townsville to Brisbane and back (over 3000kms). I do suggest running thermofans as the belt driven fan simply couldnt cope with the motor running slightly warmer than the stock one it replaced... Twin 10" Davies Craig's are absolutely perfect for my combination with a 6cyl radiator...
Keith

CAM SPECS:
Duration - In & Ex 280
0.050 Duration - In & Ex 217
Cam lift - In & Ex 286
Valve lift - In & Ex 456
Lobe spread - 111

Edited by Keithy's_UC, 05 May 2006 - 10:38 AM.


#11 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 04:21 PM

Tiny to be honest an encyclopedia wouldn't cover every aspect of this issue. Its an extremely complex collection of interelated events...

#12 Tiny

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 04:42 PM

Dave. I fully understand that we'll never become experts, but maybe i was thinking of an explaination of what things like base circle, lift, duration, overlap means and a possibly ( And i know this is wehre the diffuclty comes in) how they affect a basic engine.

I understand too that this knowledge is the money of any engine builder, and by no means do i want to take that away from anyone!

I was thinking of some basic info for people's knowledge ( and to stop em using that damn rediculous "Stage 58" terminology that shits me so badly!!)

Cheers :) I'll try and find the magazine articles i had with this info and scan em up if i can!

:spoton:

#13 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 05:19 PM

That's OK Tiny, I'll crack a bottle of Jax tonight and start writing a little tech article. :)

-Dave

#14 _MAWLER_

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 06:18 PM

Superflys question is one I'd be interested to know the answer too in terms of which is a better performer, high lift-short duration or low lift-long duration. I'm sure there are a lot of variables involved, but interesting thought nevertheless...

#15 _Aquarius - LC_

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 08:49 PM

Hi all,
This is a very interesting topic ! I'm not sure as to which is best.
However i can say, that the cam i selected for my 202 works
very very nicely!

It's a DYNOTEC PC206, 38/78
295deg duration
[email protected]",
.488"lift
rpm range 2200>6500

Last trip to the dyno 3 mths ago, yielded 152.8rwhp[114.6rwkw]
Like Keith's, my car is also very well manered in all situations,

#16 micklx

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 11:03 PM

A cam with a long duration will give a lumpier idle, whereas a cam with a shorter duration but more lift could flow a similar amount but have a smoother idle due to the inlet and exhaust valves being open together for less time.

#17 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 09:00 AM

In a nutshell, you want to have more duration as lift places wear on valvetrain, although the daily driving characteristics of the motor will be quite reminiscant of stock motors, revving or racing such a motor will require a lot more head work due to the stress placed on the valvetrain. If you have the duration then you can sit safe with the knowledge that your valvetrain is going to be less stressed and have less chance of binding or valve bouncing.

If its a big dollar motor, go for lift, if its a semi-budget motor, go for duration. If you want lumpy, go for duration. If you want sleeper like characteristics, go for lift... The crouching tiger theory.

Keith

P.S. Personal opinion here, and i believe it to be true.




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