i dont care about the price as i will be buying bits and peices as i have the money to do so.
any idears or opinions will be great
Edited by patch, 28 November 2010 - 10:40 AM.
the best combo of parts for a 308 to get more hp
Started by
_patch_
, Nov 28 2010 10:39 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
_patch_
_patch_
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Posted 28 November 2010 - 10:39 AM
as the title says i am after or get an idear of the right parts to use on a 304 running a carby. like the right carby, what grind cam to run and heads. i dont want to spend a small fortune just just want to get good hp for the street with out going for a stroker crank of forced induction.
i dont care about the price as i will be buying bits and peices as i have the money to do so.
any idears or opinions will be great
i dont care about the price as i will be buying bits and peices as i have the money to do so.
any idears or opinions will be great
#2
_TorYoda_
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Posted 28 November 2010 - 06:22 PM
I built a non stroked VN 8 cylinder a few years ago that was carby fed.......
Pocket ported the stock heads myself, cam was a Tighe solid with 296 degrees advertised, 264 at .050" with .560" lift at 110 lobe seperation. Stock valve sizes with good springs to match the cam. I chose flat top forged pistons for a 10.2 compression ratio. Bottom end was stock rods with polished beams and good bolts and studs. High volume oil pump, windage tray and deep sump. Balanced of course with a romac balancer included. Harrop single plane hi rise manifold with a 750 square bore DP Holley on top. It had custom headers on it and this engine made 512hp at 7500rpm on 98 pump fuel. It ran consistent mid 11's properly set up in a VL Calais.
It was a daily driver and was still running mid 11's two years later when the owner sold the car to start a new project. The budget for this engine at the time was $6000. Probably around $8k in todays money if you have to buy everything new.
If you would like all the specific details of this engine, clearances, cam and piston part numbers, cylinder head flow charts etc etc send me a pm or email. I keep detailed records of all my builds for future reference.
Pocket ported the stock heads myself, cam was a Tighe solid with 296 degrees advertised, 264 at .050" with .560" lift at 110 lobe seperation. Stock valve sizes with good springs to match the cam. I chose flat top forged pistons for a 10.2 compression ratio. Bottom end was stock rods with polished beams and good bolts and studs. High volume oil pump, windage tray and deep sump. Balanced of course with a romac balancer included. Harrop single plane hi rise manifold with a 750 square bore DP Holley on top. It had custom headers on it and this engine made 512hp at 7500rpm on 98 pump fuel. It ran consistent mid 11's properly set up in a VL Calais.
It was a daily driver and was still running mid 11's two years later when the owner sold the car to start a new project. The budget for this engine at the time was $6000. Probably around $8k in todays money if you have to buy everything new. If you would like all the specific details of this engine, clearances, cam and piston part numbers, cylinder head flow charts etc etc send me a pm or email. I keep detailed records of all my builds for future reference.
#3
_patch_
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Posted 29 November 2010 - 08:03 AM
cheers champ. the guy i brought the motor and th400 off said it had a crow cam put in it and when i had the sump off you could see the bottom of the double row timing chaine. it must of had a rebuild at some stage cause it still had the hone marks in the cylinder bores. the guy said the last time he had it at the drags it did a low 14 in a vn commodore. i am going to get the number off the chip in the computer and jump on crow cams web sight to see what sort of cam it is.
do you have any details of parts i could fit with out sending the motor off for machineing and a rebuild?
do you have any details of parts i could fit with out sending the motor off for machineing and a rebuild?
#4
_TorYoda_
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Posted 29 November 2010 - 06:32 PM
The cam grind number will be on the end of the cam itself. Giving you advice on what parts you can use in the engine without actually seeing its condition and measuring things is quite difficult as there are so many variables. IF the bore is good with no lip at the top then boring will not usually be necessary. IF the pistons are good quality (or forged) items they can be reused but your intended RPM and power expectations will affect what parts you choose, as will the cam you have (if that's the one you decide to use) so the more information you can list here the better.
If you can give me a realistic idea of how much power you want to make or how quick you want to get down the strip and your main intended use (drags or performance street) I can give you more accurate and useful answers.
Most importantly..... biggest is not always best. (Except for more cubic inches!) The best engine performance comes from a selection of well matched parts that work with each other to produce the desired result.
If you can give me a realistic idea of how much power you want to make or how quick you want to get down the strip and your main intended use (drags or performance street) I can give you more accurate and useful answers.
Most importantly..... biggest is not always best. (Except for more cubic inches!) The best engine performance comes from a selection of well matched parts that work with each other to produce the desired result.
#5
MRLXSS
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Posted 29 November 2010 - 07:08 PM
Most importantly..... biggest is not always best. (Except for more cubic inches!) The best engine performance comes from a selection of well matched parts that work with each other to produce the desired result.
So True, the amount of people i have told that and haven't listened is amazing!
#6
_nemo355v8_
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Posted 30 November 2010 - 12:00 PM
going through the same thing one of my brothers mates.
wanted a huge cam in his injected VP, think i talked him into some thing smaller that is more suited to what he will be doing with the car.
Its only going to be a street cruiser with only a 65mm upgrade to the throttle body, no other mods to the intake.
The motor will be freshened up, heads cleaned up and pocket ported, cam and memcal. Basically all the small stuff to make a 308 go pretty well.
springs, timmimg gear Ect.
Was on the phone to me the other night about how would it go with with a coil pack set up like the LS1s use.
I think I talked him out of it and convinced him for what he is doing his standard bosch set up would do the job.
It only took 4 hours of texting to put him straight on what some one else had put in his head. GRRR
wanted a huge cam in his injected VP, think i talked him into some thing smaller that is more suited to what he will be doing with the car.
Its only going to be a street cruiser with only a 65mm upgrade to the throttle body, no other mods to the intake.
The motor will be freshened up, heads cleaned up and pocket ported, cam and memcal. Basically all the small stuff to make a 308 go pretty well.
springs, timmimg gear Ect.
Was on the phone to me the other night about how would it go with with a coil pack set up like the LS1s use.
I think I talked him out of it and convinced him for what he is doing his standard bosch set up would do the job.
It only took 4 hours of texting to put him straight on what some one else had put in his head. GRRR
#7
_patch_
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Posted 30 November 2010 - 07:09 PM
The cam grind number will be on the end of the cam itself. Giving you advice on what parts you can use in the engine without actually seeing its condition and measuring things is quite difficult as there are so many variables. IF the bore is good with no lip at the top then boring will not usually be necessary. IF the pistons are good quality (or forged) items they can be reused but your intended RPM and power expectations will affect what parts you choose, as will the cam you have (if that's the one you decide to use) so the more information you can list here the better.
If you can give me a realistic idea of how much power you want to make or how quick you want to get down the strip and your main intended use (drags or performance street) I can give you more accurate and useful answers.
Most importantly..... biggest is not always best. (Except for more cubic inches!) The best engine performance comes from a selection of well matched parts that work with each other to produce the desired result.
the car is going to be a sunny day cruiser so i want it to be still drive well in traffic and around town, and i wouldnt mind taking it to the drags every now and then, i wouldnt mine making about 400-450 hp, i want the motor to have a bit of a lump when iderling so you know the cars got the power. and all so want it to be good on fuel while making good power.
i might have a talk to one of my dads mates thats used to build some tuff 308s and see if he can also tell me what a good combo is. cause hes got a pretty quick hatch thats isnt making huge amount of power but the only problem is he never tells anyone his secretes...
#8
mr5000
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Posted 01 December 2010 - 07:05 AM
dunno how much mine makes yet but it was a very tight budget all built for around 1300 standard heads and valves heavy ported byself mild hydraulic cam flat top pistons hastings rings hei dizzy graphed to suit quady and just some crappy small extractors and it definatly has a 13 second pass in it if i can get power to ground just fitted up a cdi ignition box so should go even better once its all back together
if your gonna spend big dollars but just stroke it you will make the same power with less compresion or if u run high comp two then you will make stupid power
maybe look into a holden stroker if your on a budget see if u can get a genine crank or think harrop is the same was reading other night they use stroke pistons and standard holden rods
if your gonna spend big dollars but just stroke it you will make the same power with less compresion or if u run high comp two then you will make stupid power
maybe look into a holden stroker if your on a budget see if u can get a genine crank or think harrop is the same was reading other night they use stroke pistons and standard holden rods
#9
MRLXSS
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Posted 01 December 2010 - 10:57 AM
the car is going to be a sunny day cruiser so i want it to be still drive well in traffic and around town, and i wouldnt mind taking it to the drags every now and then, i wouldnt mine making about 400-450 hp, i want the motor to have a bit of a lump when iderling so you know the cars got the power. and all so want it to be good on fuel while making good power.
Just for some perspective... I'm aiming to make 400-450hp out of my new 355... Its going to be running VN Heads, Harrop Manifold, C.O.M.E Crank, Forged Pistons, Roller Rockers, etc etc. I'm going as all out as I can afford. Power costs money, precision and patience! HAHA (So i am learning anyway). It won't be good on fuel with a Holley 750DP sitting on top of it either! HAHA!
You could build a strong 308 (As MR5000 has) Which will put out 300hp and do everything and more than you want it to do.
#10
_patch_
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Posted 01 December 2010 - 03:47 PM
i know what you mean about power cost money my brother spent 20,000 on the motor in his ute...
i think i will just put a manifold and carby and that just to get it going and driving. and then start saving to build a good motor. but if people have a good idear on what parts to use feel free to post up cause it will come in handy for people who want a idear on how to build a good 308/304 maybe we could get thread pinned so its easy to find later on down the track??
i think i will just put a manifold and carby and that just to get it going and driving. and then start saving to build a good motor. but if people have a good idear on what parts to use feel free to post up cause it will come in handy for people who want a idear on how to build a good 308/304 maybe we could get thread pinned so its easy to find later on down the track??
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