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Drag racing with no trackbite Friday night

Started by _NZ Toranaman_ , Dec 04 2010 02:43 PM

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16 replies to this topic

#1 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 02:43 PM

I was first car out on an unprepped track Posted Image

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=UhdXgCvC-Ug

Geez and I had trouble all night in the first 2 gears. Best of 13.5@103mph with 2.27 60ft with wheelspin for around 200ft

On a better note was my reactions which I have been working on.
From 9 runs
1 x 0.003
1 x 0.009
5 x 0.0xx
1 x 0.1xx

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#2 _Martin_

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 03:23 PM

Nice video that was a scary 7 seconds. Nice work keeping it straight.

Cheers

Martin

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#3 _UDLOSE_

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 05:40 PM

Wild ride mate! :3gears:

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#4 Stinga

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Car:HD Holden ute, and sedan, UC torana
Joined: 05-December 05

Posted 05 December 2010 - 07:22 PM

haha nice work!!

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#5 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 02:57 AM

Thanks guys.
One of the main guys at the club came up to me later to see if there were any brown stains as he was suprised how sideways I got

All I could think of was damit I am gonna loose this one, not that I had much chance as I was against a low 12 second vette.

Oh well I had fun

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#6 _CraigA_

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 09:24 PM

Nice one Graham, good recovery thats for sure.

And you couldn't hope for a better set of reaction times. Love your work :buttrock:

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#7 _mumstaxi_

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 12:52 PM

Great camera angle, you caught everything, nice job at getting straight back on the gas as thats a whole lot of steering.

Reminds me of racing @ willowbank on 185's :innocent:

MT

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#8 _TorYoda_

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 12:14 AM

Great camera angle, you caught everything, nice job at getting straight back on the gas as thats a whole lot of steering.

Reminds me of racing @ willowbank on 185's

MT

Having run a lot of mid 11 second passes at Willowbank on 195 radial street tyres (and plenty of video to prove it) big tyres are much less important if you sort out the suspension properly. We ran consistent 60 footers in the mid 1.7's with a best of 1.68!!! IMO and experience track bite make FA difference to a street compound rubber anyway.

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#9 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 06:39 AM

Great camera angle, you caught everything, nice job at getting straight back on the gas as thats a whole lot of steering.
Reminds me of racing @ willowbank on 185's

MT

Having run a lot of mid 11 second passes at Willowbank on 195 radial street tyres (and plenty of video to prove it) big tyres are much less important if you sort out the suspension properly. We ran consistent 60 footers in the mid 1.7's with a best of 1.68!!! IMO and experience track bite make FA difference to a street compound rubber anyway.

I run stock suspension set up so that I don't need to get the car certified so I will always suffer on marginal tracks, I can get more grip on the street than on this surface when its unprepped. Honestly you can't compare our track with anything like Willowbank as it is a purpose built track and gets used a shit load more and has alot more rubber laid down, also our track start line was supposed to be lifted in the off season as we are getting holes in rubber. I can assure you that trackbite does make a difference to this car at this track, and it depends on the street tires and if you are running a manual or auto in my opinion as well as the suspension and weight. I have run over 1000 trips down the 1/4 as I have been tuning my car in and now that I am in low 13's to high 12's I am finding it tough to retain traction but then I built this car more for alround fun not a drag strip car.

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#10 _mumstaxi_

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 11:04 AM

He-he, yeh sorry, was in no way ever trying/going to compare that track to Willowbank !

What i was refering to, is when i was running a mid 11 second car down the quarter (@ willowbank) on 185 tyres , the car was effectively a 10 second capable car, but due to the "cheeze-cutters" i had to shift into second gear before it made any decent power in first, often when pushing it to improve my times, i too could easy find myself spaghetti armed looking at the wall :DOH:

I think trackbite does make a difference,your car is a definite credit to you running those times on any track, great that you have some video/s of it in action, dont think i ever got quite as sideways as you did in your video, well not at "Willowbank" anyway ^_^

MT

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#11 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 01:39 PM

He-he, yeh sorry, was in no way ever trying/going to compare that track to Willowbank !

What i was refering to, is when i was running a mid 11 second car down the quarter (@ willowbank) on 185 tyres , the car was effectively a 10 second capable car, but due to the "cheeze-cutters" i had to shift into second gear before it made any decent power in first, often when pushing it to improve my times, i too could easy find myself spaghetti armed looking at the wall

I think trackbite does make a difference,your car is a definite credit to you running those times on any track, great that you have some video/s of it in action, dont think i ever got quite as sideways as you did in your video, well not at "Willowbank" anyway

MT

Sorry MT it wasn't at you mate and I am in awe of your taxi

You must have had a lot of people smurk to see your beast at the track with skinnys.... I know I do and I have run the fastest times on 205's.
Funny thing was all that was going through my mind when I was sideways was that the vette was getting a lead and to try and catch him lol... I was on my 225's with soft compound too.

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#12 MRLXSS

The Render Garage

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Name:Matt
Location:Upwey, Melbourne
Car:355 LX Hatchback, DeLorean DMC-12, LX SS Hatch, VY Cross8 Crewman
Joined: 09-November 05

Posted 09 December 2010 - 01:50 PM

Sweet footage mate!!! Looks a bit hairy though! HAHA!@

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#13 _TorYoda_

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Posted 09 December 2010 - 06:33 PM

[quote name='NZ Toranaman' date='08 December 2010 - 06:39 AM' timestamp='1291754375' post='556973']
[quote name='TorYoda' date='08 December 2010 - 02:14 AM' timestamp='1291731273' post='556960']
[quote name='mumstaxi' date='07 December 2010 - 12:52 PM' timestamp='1291690334' post='556808']
Great camera angle, you caught everything, nice job at getting straight back on the gas as thats a whole lot of steering. Posted Image

Reminds me of racing @ willowbank on 185's Posted Image

MT
[/quote]
I run stock suspension set up so that I don't need to get the car certified so I will always suffer on marginal tracks, I can get more grip on the street than on this surface when its unprepped. Honestly you can't compare our track with anything like Willowbank as it is a purpose built track and gets used a shit load more and has alot more rubber laid down, also our track start line was supposed to be lifted in the off season as we are getting holes in rubber. I can assure you that trackbite does make a difference to this car at this track, and it depends on the street tires and if you are running a manual or auto in my opinion as well as the suspension and weight. I have run over 1000 trips down the 1/4 as I have been tuning my car in and now that I am in low 13's to high 12's I am finding it tough to retain traction but then I built this car more for alround fun not a drag strip car.
[/quote]

I'm not referring to a completely different suspension set up here...... Just effective set up of what is already in there. If you have a front anti roll bar fitted then remove or disconnect it when going to the track. Fit the stiffest rear anti roll bar you can buy. Fit a long soft spring in the front for maximum lift. Also use a front shock that has minimal rebound (extension) damping. Use a long soft spring in the rear that has at least 4 inches of sag in the suspension. Raise the rear upper control arm pivots on the diff housing by 40mm. Cut them off and space up 40mm and weld back on. You will be amazed at the improvement in traction and ET!!! Sure, it will handle like a boat around corners but if dragstrip results are what you are wanting this stuff works. I spent close to 20 years as a regular racer (REAL street sleeper cars that were also my every day drivers) and learned a lot about how to make traction without big tyres. These same principles apply to leaf spring rear ends as well. If you get the balance just right, full throttle launches are possible. Cheers.

Edited by TorYoda, 09 December 2010 - 06:37 PM.

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#14 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 10 December 2010 - 01:59 PM

[quote name='TorYoda' date='09 December 2010 - 08:33 PM' timestamp='1291883606' post='557310']
[quote name='NZ Toranaman' date='08 December 2010 - 06:39 AM' timestamp='1291754375' post='556973']
[quote name='TorYoda' date='08 December 2010 - 02:14 AM' timestamp='1291731273' post='556960']
[quote name='mumstaxi' date='07 December 2010 - 12:52 PM' timestamp='1291690334' post='556808']
Great camera angle, you caught everything, nice job at getting straight back on the gas as thats a whole lot of steering. Posted Image

Reminds me of racing @ willowbank on 185's Posted Image

MT
[/quote]
I run stock suspension set up so that I don't need to get the car certified so I will always suffer on marginal tracks, I can get more grip on the street than on this surface when its unprepped. Honestly you can't compare our track with anything like Willowbank as it is a purpose built track and gets used a shit load more and has alot more rubber laid down, also our track start line was supposed to be lifted in the off season as we are getting holes in rubber. I can assure you that trackbite does make a difference to this car at this track, and it depends on the street tires and if you are running a manual or auto in my opinion as well as the suspension and weight. I have run over 1000 trips down the 1/4 as I have been tuning my car in and now that I am in low 13's to high 12's I am finding it tough to retain traction but then I built this car more for alround fun not a drag strip car.
[/quote]

I'm not referring to a completely different suspension set up here...... Just effective set up of what is already in there. If you have a front anti roll bar fitted then remove or disconnect it when going to the track. Fit the stiffest rear anti roll bar you can buy. Fit a long soft spring in the front for maximum lift. Also use a front shock that has minimal rebound (extension) damping. Use a long soft spring in the rear that has at least 4 inches of sag in the suspension. Raise the rear upper control arm pivots on the diff housing by 40mm. Cut them off and space up 40mm and weld back on. You will be amazed at the improvement in traction and ET!!! Sure, it will handle like a boat around corners but if dragstrip results are what you are wanting this stuff works. I spent close to 20 years as a regular racer (REAL street sleeper cars that were also my every day drivers) and learned a lot about how to make traction without big tyres. These same principles apply to leaf spring rear ends as well. If you get the balance just right, full throttle launches are possible. Cheers.
[/quote]
Hey thanks for the tips mate will look at what I can do but as budget and my declaration cert is the decider i probably wont be able to lift the arms... although I may rig something that I can remove at warrant time and circuit racing instead of welding

I have the springs and rear shocks but no decent front shocks and have no sway bars at all

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#15 _TorYoda_

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Posted 10 December 2010 - 05:37 PM

A very strong rear bar will do a lot to help make the car launch straight. I notice in your video it turns right.... this is because tailshaft torque twists the diff housing laterally to the body and unloads the Rh wheel. The left tyre then having more grip than the right, tries to drive around the front, turning you to the right. A tired old set of oem stock front shocks will help to get the nose up quickly. Stiffer springs are the exact opposite of what you need as they will not extend much. The extension helps you with weight transfer and this can only be achieved with a longer, softer coil. Getting the nose high up quickly helps to weight the rear wheels and then the increased upper trailing arm angle will lever the tyres away from the body, reducing squat and weighting them even more so! Once the nose is all the way up Any squat in the rear is wasted traction!!! Ideally the nose will lift as you hit the gas and then the rear will extend/lift as you gain momentum.

I have modded a few diff mounts in lc/lj/lh/lx and if done neatly it is not noticeable at all, especially once painted black with the arms fitted. Having put a few like this through machinery inspections myself I'd bet a substantial amount that an inspector would not pick up the difference if the weld was not visible. The raised mounts will give you the biggest improvement but the long saggy springs in the rear will dramatically enhance the benefit of the increased upper trailing arm angle.

All these tricks are backyard budget. I was young and broke at the time too, however I was still ET hungry so from careful study I learned how to make improvements with minimal spending.

Pm me if you want my number to call for a more detailed explanation. Cheers. Craig.

Note; The raised rear arm position will not hurt performance at all in circuit racing conditions as it has the opposite benefit of holding the rear Down when braking hard. It's one of the rare win/win situations. The rear anti roll bar will also assist on the circuit.

Edited by TorYoda, 10 December 2010 - 05:47 PM.