
what ampege alternator
#1
_brenden83_
Posted 13 December 2010 - 07:57 PM
Was wanting to know what size alternator to run on my 355 , i was thinking a 100amp but didnt know if i needed to go that big
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks brenden
#2
Posted 13 December 2010 - 08:14 PM
#3
Posted 14 December 2010 - 06:42 AM
#4
_nemo355v8_
Posted 14 December 2010 - 09:32 PM
It keeps up with twin thermos, eletric fuel pump, a decent stereo 2 amps and sub and a pair of 100W driving lights aswell as all the original high tech factory torana electrics, lol
Edited by nemo355v8, 14 December 2010 - 09:33 PM.
#5
_brenden83_
Posted 15 December 2010 - 07:48 PM
I run a 85 amp alternator off a VN V8, just had to change the pulley to the V belt off my old alternator.
It keeps up with twin thermos, eletric fuel pump, a decent stereo 2 amps and sub and a pair of 100W driving lights aswell as all the original high tech factory torana electrics, lol
ok thanks fellas i might go the 100amp that way i wont matter what i run .
At present the cars in rebuild stage but i know it will b running twin thermos, electric fuel pump then the usual torana stuff
#6
_torbirdie_
Posted 15 December 2010 - 09:19 PM
ok thanks fellas i might go the 100amp that way i wont matter what i run .
At present the cars in rebuild stage but i know it will b running twin thermos, electric fuel pump then the usual torana stuff
Yes and no, its the output of the alternator at idle that is the key factor when you have electric fans etc, its possible to end up with a high output alternator that does not much more than a standard one at idle(look for two numbers in the specs). If you replace it with an alternator off a modern car then chances are it will have a high rating at low rpm.
#7
_76S.L.R_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 06:00 PM
I previously bought a Chrome 100 Amp one but was a complete peice of shit,my lights would go brighter when I reved the car,it squeeked when running! and had to use numerous spacers to get it to fit but in the end I gave up and threw it in the bin,I dont know 100% what size amperage alternator I have in the LX now but the Auto sparky years ago told me he thought it was an 85 Amp unit?? but not confirmed.
Is there like an 100 amp unit that will bolt staight into the 308 Alternator bracket and wire up just like the factory item?
Edited by 76S.L.R, 28 December 2010 - 06:10 PM.
#8
_nemo355v8_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 06:22 PM
If its a Bosch unit it will be stamped on the alloy casing of the alternator.I too need to upgrade the Alternator in my LX , 308 running Twin AU Thermo's I just want to upgrade the alternator without having to muck about modding it to fit!.
I previously bought a Chrome 100 Amp one but was a complete peice of shit,my lights would go brighter when I reved the car,it squeeked when running! and had to use numerous spacers to get it to fit but in the end I gave up and threw it in the bin,I dont know 100% what size amperage alternator I have in the LX now but the Auto sparky years ago told me he thought it was an 85 Amp unit?? but not confirmed.
Is there like an 100 amp unit that will bolt staight into the 308 Alternator bracket and wire up just like the factory item?
VN/P commodores 8 and 6 use a 85 amp that goes straight on a torana, maybe a Statesman one could be a higher rating.
Wiring needs to be altered slightly thou. You need to grab the plug and 2 wires that come off a VN/P as well. One goes to the battery with a fusible link battery end and the other joins to your ALT light wire already on your altenator.
#9
Posted 28 December 2010 - 08:36 PM
in my lj i have an ampmeter that only goes to 30 amps
if i put a 85 or 100 amp alternator will it bugger the guage?
#10
Posted 28 December 2010 - 08:52 PM
Hopefully.if i put a 85 or 100 amp alternator will it bugger the guage?
Then you can delete it....................dangerous bloody things IMHO.
#11
Posted 28 December 2010 - 08:59 PM
iv been using a vn 85 amp alt for few years, it only just does the job. driving at night with fans on it struggled big time.
there is a 120amp model of the vn alternator, looks and mounts exactly the same, it has more industrial internals. think they cost about the $350-$400 mark. there is a problem with the 120amp alt, it was originally designed for industrial sort of use, high amp at low rpm, if you spin your engine hard frequently, im not talking traffic light wars, it wont like it. most people this will be fine for.
MSD do a 130 amp, that is suppose to handle abuse, iv just started using one, if had to weld the mounting brackets to the alt, as the bolted on brackets move when tightening the belt. price on MSD alt, add couple of hundred more.
pulley speed is a big thing with alternators, getting them to spin at correct rpm for your application.
hope that helps a bit.
#12
_torbirdie_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 09:13 PM
Depends where you put the gauge. If you leave everything as is, then will be ok, but given you have a need for a higher output alternator Im guessing you've changed things around a bit.something ive always wondered?
in my lj i have an ampmeter that only goes to 30 amps
if i put a 85 or 100 amp alternator will it bugger the guage?
In the standard setup in the lj the ammeter is placed between the +ve of the alternator/generator and the +ve of the battery. Its really only measuring the current going in or out of the battery(better than a voltmeter in my opinion), not the total put out by the alternator.
In normal operation it will should be slightly right of centre, indicating a small amount of current is passing from the generator towards the battery, normal charge current ~3-4A. All of the electrical loads basically feed off the alternator output and then go to ground, they dont go through the ammeter, unless of course you have relayed items running directly off the battery(not recommended) and this will then have the ammeter reading further towards the right and possibly overdriven if you have fans, relayed headlights etc. (if you have an ammeter, all relays should get their +12V supply from the alternator terminal and there wont be any probs here)
When the motor is stopped, then all the electricity for the devices flows from the battery through the meter to the alternator terminal and then to the device. There is more chance of overdriving the ammeter when you have the engine off and all your devices on. that being said, I think the ammeter will cope with more current than this, just show no more resolution than the 30A full scale deflection.
When the engine is going and the alternator spinning the only time the meter will show high deflection to the right is when the battery has been discharged and then it is able to accept a high amount of current from the alternator, the amount of current it can accept is limited by the battery size and the output of the alternator. A standard battery wont really accept much more than 30A on full charge and neither will the standard ammeter be able to give more than that at it at full output to the battery, but if you put a monster truck battery in that it could easily accept a lot more and would put in excess of 30A through the ammeter if you also had a high current alternator to match
Edited by torbirdie, 28 December 2010 - 09:25 PM.
#13
_torbirdie_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 09:38 PM
(if you have an ammeter, all relays should get their +12V supply from the alternator terminal and there wont be any probs here)
well not quite right(if the relayed items are connected to the generator) if all your electrical loads are still on when the motor dies then the entire electrical load will be going from the battery to ammeter to generator terminal and even if they dont overload the ammeter, overload the standard wiring which may be only rated to 40A or so.
either way if you have added an extra 20A or so of electrical items to your torrie, then you should upgrade the wires going to the ammeter.
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