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KPI power steering


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#1 _Barman_

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 08:14 PM

Ive removed the front end from my (spare) LH and ive got plans to put cortina powersterring in, and, well if ive got it out im gunna put HZ brakes on it so im interrested in any info on what model like HQ -WB should i use (ive got access to all models) does KPI have any difference in these models cheers
Baz

#2 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 08 May 2006 - 08:21 PM

HQ - WB stub axles are all identical. The only slight difference is the HX 1 tonner stub axles apparently have more metal near the top ball joint.

#3 Toranamat69

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Posted 10 May 2006 - 11:46 PM

G'day Barman,

Where abouts are you located?

One thing that looks like it will be inevitable with the cortina rack in the Torana is you will end up with an even worst turning circle than you do in the standard torana (hard to believe I know).

When jigging mine up - the best I thought I could achieve with regard to mounting was with the rack about 50mm further forward than the original rack even cutting into the drivers side engine mount - the result is the steering on the inside wheel is not as progressive and doesn't turn in as sharp.

This will compound with the fact that the Toranas had too little ackerman effect in their steering to begin with.

This along with about 4 other reasons are why I am looking for a nicer alternative but there are not many to choose from.


M@

#4 Toranamat69

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 10:59 PM

I have just been taking some more measurements of the Cortina and LX racks tonight.

I have a bit more info regarding the turning circle that will be achieved with the Cortina rack.

The full travel of the Torana Rack and pinion is 132mm from lock to lock. The UC Torana pretty much hits the bumps stops at the exact same time as the rack hits the end of it's travel so the whole range is used.

The TF cortina rack has a travel of 120mm so as well as the issues I mentioned above, it will not achieve full lock on the Torana front end.

By far the worst thing is the fact the rack centre line with the Cortina one is 30mm from the centre line of the front subframe. (you would have to scallop halfway through the subframe for clearance to rectify this). The only other 2 options I can think of is
1. Use the rack off centre and use the tied rod adjustments to centre the front wheels but this means you will have the tie rods unequal length from left to right which is not something I am interrested in having on the front on my Torana andd it gives you uneven turning circle left and right also.
or 2. The other option which I suspect CRS used to do (but dont know for sure) is to make a male to female threaded (M14 x 1.5) spacer (30mm long funnily enough) and install it on the passenger side end of the steering rack between the rack and the inner balljoint to recentre the Cortina rack and get equal length tie rods. This spacer would need to use proper rolled threads, not just cut ones.

The down side there is it will end up increasing the distance between the inner balljoints to 650mm (same as the WRX rack is standard).

I have literally just confirmed to myself that the WRX rack wins out on about 5 different factors over the Cortina one.

Anyone want to buy a full Power steering system for a TE/TF cortina?

#5 Toranamat69

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 05:19 PM

Feedback is more than welcome from you other guys trying this mod.

I am no expert, just learning as I go along.

That's why I want pics of a CRS setup if anyone has any or even feedback from someone who has driven one.

I am more than happy for someone to point out something they don't agree with.
Even just confirmation that others agree with my findings when they have a go would be appreciated.

M@

#6 _brett_32i_

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 08:30 PM

quick question Mat,
are there longer factory style steering rack mounting bolts available?
they are basically a high tensile coach bolt. but noone makes high tensile coach bolts.
were the corty bolts longer? i only need about 10mm

#7 Toranamat69

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 08:12 PM

G'day Brett,

I have never come across high tensile coach bolts either so I cant recommend a supplier of longer ones there.

No reason not to use a hex head high tensile bolt - there is just enough room between the control arm and the subframe to get a spanner on the head to hold it still when tightening.
Holden just used those so they didn't have to use a spanner on the back.

The coach bolts have a large head on them so I would use hardened washers of at least the diameter of the coach bolt head on the hex heads so they don't pull through the subrame.

M@

#8 _Barman_

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Posted 25 June 2006 - 02:45 PM

Im realy keen to see some pics of the CRS P/S job if anyone has any
Im in no hurry to fit P/S its only for the wife, im more into the 308/355
on the engine stand.

Im in Emerald central Qld
Thanks
Baz




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